CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Exhaust ideas
- Thread starter shond100
- Start date
smokeum99ta
1/2 ton status
I made my own 3” exhaust outta a hot rod kit. Look at pages 6&7 for pictures https://ck5.com/forums/threads/my-full-conversion.335525/page-7
I run cat only on my crew cab. Sound fine, pretty quiet actually.
Anyone recommend a good aftermarket cat for a decent price? My K5 needs redone to make room for an antiwrap bar. I want to do single exhaust with a side dump and a cat. Guys aren't kidding when they say duals out the back swirl the exhaust right back inside.
Anyone recommend a good aftermarket cat for a decent price? My K5 needs redone to make room for an antiwrap bar. I want to do single exhaust with a side dump and a cat. Guys aren't kidding when they say duals out the back swirl the exhaust right back inside.
Anecdotally I've heard the aftermarket converters are cheaply made. Not sure it's true, but don't have much choice AFAIK.
Based on their response to my inquiry regarding how to determine correct placement, I appreciated Magnaflow getting back to me with the data I needed:
"Desired 'light off' temperature is 400°C (750F). This remains pretty constant throughout all converter applications and refers to the temperature of the gas as it flows through the center of the converter. Typically we will measure 250 – 350F on the inlet pipe not the converter body."
I expect to go with them when I go to buy one.
Based on their response to my inquiry regarding how to determine correct placement, I appreciated Magnaflow getting back to me with the data I needed:
"Desired 'light off' temperature is 400°C (750F). This remains pretty constant throughout all converter applications and refers to the temperature of the gas as it flows through the center of the converter. Typically we will measure 250 – 350F on the inlet pipe not the converter body."
I expect to go with them when I go to buy one.
When you run this does the single exit driver side?
Do you have a picture I'm getting my exhaust redone to stock manifolds , removing headers and want a single 3" exhaust but I forget how stock looks under the truck.
I'm also bringing my Tcase back up to stock and not dropped 1".
Exhaust Parts Lookup | Walker Exhaust Systems
Use the convenient Walker online parts lookup tool to find the exact Walker exhaust parts that match your next repair need.
77snowwheeler
Patriot
i have hedman longtube headers now and want them off. I don't think they're really needed for a more or less stock 350. My truck sounds good.
I'm thinking these manifolds and keeping my thrush weld mufflers. I'm just torn on going into a single exit on the driver side. I already have the two mufflers and would hate to waste one.
I could do an Hpipe after the Tcase or something or just sell one and run the exhaust how it was stock but with 2.5 to 3" single
www.speedwaymotors.com
I'm thinking these manifolds and keeping my thrush weld mufflers. I'm just torn on going into a single exit on the driver side. I already have the two mufflers and would hate to waste one.
I could do an Hpipe after the Tcase or something or just sell one and run the exhaust how it was stock but with 2.5 to 3" single
Hooker 8525HKR S/B Chevy Exhaust Manifolds, 2-1/2 Inch, Natural
Hooker's new cast iron small-block Chevy exhaust manifolds offer an increase in performance and visual appearance over stock-style manifolds. Their compact design fit into a wide variety of replacement and engine swap applications. This means you get the traditional look and easy fitment of a...
You have pic underneath the truck or did I miss it?
just an fyi, 87-91 came with single 3” exhaust, though not mandrel bent. Should be a bolt on upgrade (without the pancake cat of course).
Tie in ypipe to factory cat location, and then source factory at auto parts store. Use to be cheap, who know what it costs now
Tie in ypipe to factory cat location, and then source factory at auto parts store. Use to be cheap, who know what it costs now
JDJ2810
Registered Member
I just finished my exhaust. Long tube headers, 2.5" Stainless tube, Cheap Jeg's FlowMaster knock offs. I turned the exhaust down right at the rear axle due to weather. Its loud but not unbearable. My 383ci SBC is healthy engine. I guess I will get to see what the neighbors think when I start driving it to work leaving the house at 5am.
Copy that... hooker manifolds cross over where after the Tcase before rear axle?
normally near the t case where drive shaft has limited up and down movement
I built my exhaust so it's not factory. With the fat block I did 2-1/2" dual into 3-1/2" single.
I end up with driver side exit because of the passenger drop tcase.
Thinking these, I'm over the hedman headers. In the way and not really necessary.
www.speedwaymotors.com
My plan,
Raise 203 Tcase back up to stock position (eventually then ORD motor mounts installed). So, have the exhaust run high enough to allow that 203 to be raised up.. Cross over after Tcase, keep my thrush weld mufflers, the exit past rear tires out the side.
Can't raise it back up with this set up.
Hooker 8525HKR S/B Chevy Exhaust Manifolds, 2-1/2 Inch, Natural
Hooker's new cast iron small-block Chevy exhaust manifolds offer an increase in performance and visual appearance over stock-style manifolds. Their compact design fit into a wide variety of replacement and engine swap applications. This means you get the traditional look and easy fitment of a...
My plan,
Raise 203 Tcase back up to stock position (eventually then ORD motor mounts installed). So, have the exhaust run high enough to allow that 203 to be raised up.. Cross over after Tcase, keep my thrush weld mufflers, the exit past rear tires out the side.
Can't raise it back up with this set up.
Last edited:
I'm thinking these. Are stock manifolds the same size 2 1/2, as these offered by speedway? I way better able to find used ones and save some $$
With the headers I have it's pain in the butt to mess with. The collectors are in a junk spot making getting the collector flange off a pain. Also I have to remove the passenger side collectors flange in order to remove the torque converter cover. Also these headmen header bolts are lame and another pain to deal with.
Thoughts?
www.speedwaymotors.com
With the headers I have it's pain in the butt to mess with. The collectors are in a junk spot making getting the collector flange off a pain. Also I have to remove the passenger side collectors flange in order to remove the torque converter cover. Also these headmen header bolts are lame and another pain to deal with.
Thoughts?
Hooker 8525HKR S/B Chevy Exhaust Manifolds, 2-1/2 Inch, Natural
Hooker's new cast iron small-block Chevy exhaust manifolds offer an increase in performance and visual appearance over stock-style manifolds. Their compact design fit into a wide variety of replacement and engine swap applications. This means you get the traditional look and easy fitment of a...
Last edited:
Glad this thread started. I just got my Stainless Hedman Hedders. Planning my exhaust for the 496ci build. Thinking 3" Stainless Duals only because of the HP the engine may have. Hard to find a shop to do it. Anyone w experience with a shop in the PA, NJ or DE area. Hoping they can do purge welding. Any experience with purge welding?
Any good photos out there for pipe routing?? Even for the SB engines the routing can make the difference...
Any good photos out there for pipe routing?? Even for the SB engines the routing can make the difference...
My 2 cents, purge on stainless is the proper way. Its 100% needed in an intake because you could get boogers inside the pipe that would find their way into the engine or a turbo. On an exhaust it really doesn't matter if some crusty boogers come loose, its after the engine and will get blown out the back.
