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Fallouts Suburbalanche Conversion Build thread.

looks good man, its coming out really clean, looks like you're going the same route as i am, the mega cab is good, the behind the seat area is great, especially now that you lost all the rear storage, its perfect

when you finish that up you're gonna have to bob it, i just finished mine yesterday

Looks good. I believe a picture of yours is actually what inspired me to do the Cab back instead of some other options. Did you do anything special on your interior panels where the cab half meets or are you gonna even mess with it?
 
Looks good. I believe a picture of yours is actually what inspired me to do the Cab back instead of some other options. Did you do anything special on your interior panels where the cab half meets or are you gonna even mess with it?


havent messed with it yet, most likely will end up sheet metal welding over it, jsut to cover it, dosent bother me at the moment, everything is waterproof which is my big pet peeve

also, with the tailgate, you wont be able to use on off a truck or k5

a suburban tailgate has a different taper, above the tail light is a different angle.. you would have to section off a pickup taillight section to do so

i would sell you my tailgate... sadly you are far away, mabye skin it and make somthing? im not sure
 
that is sick, just what i want to do to my 76. how much weight do u think it lost?

Its probably only give or take 50-100 lbs lighter than factory. I wish I would have weighed in prior to cutting. The 20 foot of 3/16's angle iron That I used weights quite a bit. The rear cab half weights next to nothing. Most of its weight comes from the back glass. If I tub it like irishraptor You could probably factor in another 100-200 lbs. minus frame and body lost.
 
I just have got to do this to my burb, I love a cut burb. LOOKS AWESOME!!! Just needs a bed bob.


 
Very clean truck brother.

I wish I kept the bedsides. I really regret that.

Are you having any problems insuring it at all?
 
Are you having any problems insuring it at all?

I know you are in Canada and know of the problems you talked about in your build thread and your different requirements for obtaining insurance. I dont know about other (U.S.) states but In Texas all I have to do to get Liability insurance (minimum amount required) is to phone the insurance company with the VIN# they do a registration check and its added onto my policy. Which for this old boat is only about 20 dollars a month. Once a year we are required to get a Vehicle inspection performed but other than Emission and vehicle light related checks it is limited to certain aspects of the braking system. They could care less what it looks like or if it is structurally sound. Of course then again you should see some of the pieces of junk :o we have driving on our roads down here as well.
 
I wish I had that kind of setup here.

Again, very nice job sir. What are you doing with the spare tire dip?
 
I havnt thought of that yet. I have tossed around the idea of making a water tight lid for it to keep chains straps etc. misc junk in. Or as one of my friends recommended insulate it and make a "on board" ice chest out of it. You could probably fit a 6 pack of your choice of refreshing beverage in it. Its still on the back burner. I was doing a lot of the work at night in a poorly lit shop and almost broke my ankle several times by stepping into the thing while working in the back of the bed. I do like the bobbed bed look but probably wont be able to get around doing it for awhile. Once I get the cab to a suitable point I am going to start working on the drivetrain. I have a 2002 Hummer 6.5 block I won at a government auction and a Banks Turbo Setup that I need to start building. The head gaskets and or heads on the current motor are blown and while the motor does run seemingly well I am gambling every time I drive it that its going to hydrolock and throw a rod or the crank.
 
when i put my fuel cell in, i needed a place to store my fuel pump, stumbled apon a 50 cal 100 round ammo box

now i swear by it and cant wait for the next swap meet to pick more up

it is sealed completly and has a gasket all the way around the top, so perfect
 
sweet truck. If i didnt do the blazer on my suburban i was gonna go with the same look you have. Nice job though. If you want some cheap paint check out paintforcars dot com. Good for trail rigs if you dont care too much. I think that was im gonna use.
 
Got any updates?

I'd like to see this truck in person soon, I'm coming back to Dallas in 3 weeks. Check the Plains Region forum. I'm thinking of trying a meet and greet maybe the beginning of September.
 
Got some more of the body work done, I am in the middle of swapping one tons under it right now. Im at work but when I get off I will try and post some more pics.
 
Are the barn doors still fairly strong like that? Do they have trouble staying latched?

Martin
 
Are the barn doors still fairly strong like that? Do they have trouble staying latched?

Martin

If I would have been able to finish welding them up and covering the top they would have been about as strong structurally as the original complete doors. Didnt have any problems with them staying latched, only nuiscance was the top portion of where the doors met would smack together if I hit a bump but with all the other rattles in this thing it didnt make much difference. I ultimately am going another route and have removed the current setup. I am going to build (Not high on the list right now) a custom fully functioning tailgate out of angle iron. Sort of like the aftermarket gates for gooseneck trailers without the dip in them. Or maybe something out of some DOM tubing. The "experiment with the original Barn doors was more for laughs and just to see what it would look like.

I wish the temps would start getting back into the 80's during the daytime and I might be able to get the finish work done on the cab. Working Bondo in 90-100 degree heat is no fun and Hence why I gave up on that part of the project back in April-May. You have to mix it very cold to get any time working it. I have been spending the hot and unpleasant summer months scouring for parts and selling others to get where I am at. So far I have scored a 4x4 NV4500, a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt Rear. It is of course overkill as It is going to be more of a Daily Driver / Deer lease truck, But I was in bad need of a re-gear with my factory 3.42's and 33's, and I got them for less than a re-gear of my current axles would cost with some Brand-newish BFG 35's. And the current 700r4 in my truck is on its way out. The gears might help prolong its death but I can feel it coming and I like raking gears.
 
I think this is awsome. I am actually looking at doing something similar to extend my crewcab into a 6 door megacab. How much room do you have behind the seat when it is up? Enough to put a small overnight bag? Could you tell me the distance from the seat hinge to the wall you made?
 
As promised more pics

While trying some stuff out and after much research I learned that Spray foam is often used for "Modelling" items Made out of fiberglass. Seeing as I had a void inside the truck that I didnt feel like welding this is what I tried.
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I filled the cavity with Greatstuff spray foam. Make sure that it is "Polyurethane Based" or the hardener will eat the foam and make a mess.
After it dried I trimmed it with a saw blade and the used Bondo Glass over it. After sanding it it didnt turn out bad. I am going to have to skim over it with a filler coat of bondo to get rid of the dip but it accomplished my goal.

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I think this is awsome. I am actually looking at doing something similar to extend my crewcab into a 6 door megacab. How much room do you have behind the seat when it is up? Enough to put a small overnight bag? Could you tell me the distance from the seat hinge to the wall you made?


Distance is 11.5 inches exactly. Obviously the seat tapers towards the top so less room is available. A small overnight bag would definately fit back there. Or some Subs and a tool box.
 
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