agree, that second one is nasty. Do a 1" BL at the same time.Replace em!
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Father-daughter 76 annihilator build
- Thread starter Zsnoman
- Start date
The underbody sure looks solid! So its probably not a big issue in CA, but some penetrating oil a few days ahead of time would be a good idea on those body bolts.
The weld on reinforcment has been used in conjunction with the steering brace for running bigger/wider tires. It helps prevent future frame cracking problems.
The weld on reinforcment has been used in conjunction with the steering brace for running bigger/wider tires. It helps prevent future frame cracking problems.
did not really want to go higher so why is everyone saying to add 1in body lift also? I think ill be able to run 35 or 37 with 4in lift and trimming already done by what i have read on here. 32 in right now look tiny.
some people do it just for ease of access to other things. tranny bolts and such. Myself I dont get it. I do know that the poly body mounts will transmit more road vibrations and small bumps to you in the seat. stock type rubbers ones are better. wont last as long but the ones ya got did about 30 years.... so new rubber sould be fine
I dont get it. I do know that the poly body mounts will transmit more road vibrations and small bumps to you in the seat. stock type rubbers ones are better. wont last as long but the ones ya got did about 30 years.... so new rubber sould be fine
new rubber with a poly spacer is all you need, no vibration transmitted that way....and the body lift is what Rick says, makes it easier to get to things from the underside, in addition to a bit more body/tire clearance, but not enough to affect things like radiator shroud and hoses, m/c lines, trans lines. etc.
Order factory rubber body mounts and then where do you get the poly spacer that you mention. Looked at 1" lift pucks and mounts on ORD but like you all say would rather smooth things out not make worse, dirt roads around here are all wash boards and rough enough till about 60 then they seem to smooth out
the 1"BL won't do anything to increase harshness, etc.. at all...
and to be honest, I've never noticed a dif between the poly and rubber, but that's me.. I run poly for the durability, and yup, ORD's 1" BL.... but rubber is fine, as mentioned, it should outlive us!
but the extra room the BL gives you is very handy.. once you work on a rig wiith one, ya go, man this is so much easier to work on.. but it obviously is not required, especially if you want no more height...
but when planning a build, it's a good consideration... for example... many, me included, would say that if you wanted 6"s of total lift in the end, that you'd be vastly better off getting 4" springs up front, a zero rate and 1" BL (especially if you need/want to do mounts), as opposed to buying 6" springs....
and to be honest, I've never noticed a dif between the poly and rubber, but that's me.. I run poly for the durability, and yup, ORD's 1" BL.... but rubber is fine, as mentioned, it should outlive us!
but the extra room the BL gives you is very handy.. once you work on a rig wiith one, ya go, man this is so much easier to work on.. but it obviously is not required, especially if you want no more height...
but when planning a build, it's a good consideration... for example... many, me included, would say that if you wanted 6"s of total lift in the end, that you'd be vastly better off getting 4" springs up front, a zero rate and 1" BL (especially if you need/want to do mounts), as opposed to buying 6" springs....
mmadblazer76
Registered Member
Hmmm, now I'm kinda wishing I did the 1" body lift when I did my body bushings! Dang
Here is picture of front springs. I knew they didn't feel right anymore but had no idea they were this hammered. One is broken and the other so oblong its hard to imagine how didn't look that bad on the rig.
So thank you for your replies. I think I will also order the 1" body lift because I do plan on keeping and progressing through the years to build a dream 4x4 capable of whatever nature can throw at me. Not as much just crawler as living where I do the blazer will see long hunting trips and a couple hours on black top most of the time to get from here to top of the world or where ever. still leaning towards just 35 or 37's to handle nicer on the roads. Will order more goodies tomarrow. Funny thing about having the blazer in driveway instead of daughter constantly driving all over is the fuel cost alone pays for some of the goodies.the 1"BL won't do anything to increase harshness, etc.. at all...
and to be honest, I've never noticed a dif between the poly and rubber, but that's me.. I run poly for the durability, and yup, ORD's 1" BL.... but rubber is fine, as mentioned, it should outlive us!
but the extra room the BL gives you is very handy.. once you work on a rig wiith one, ya go, man this is so much easier to work on.. but it obviously is not required, especially if you want no more height...
but when planning a build, it's a good consideration... for example... many, me included, would say that if you wanted 6"s of total lift in the end, that you'd be vastly better off getting 4" springs up front, a zero rate and 1" BL (especially if you need/want to do mounts), as opposed to buying 6" springs....
Nothing to have her go through 100 a week in fuel living here, sometimes that's just a sunday adventure which I continue to incourage. Out of town out of trouble.
Now for a seat question, are the off road suspension seats worth the $ 250-300. I know as my ass gets older a nice seat is worth it but am considering seats off internet like 85 octanes Subaru seats. Its just funny to put Subaru parts in this rig, but if they are comfy and work and only $100 it seems that would be the ticket. Never having rode in off road suspension seats I'm not sure how nice they are. Definitely going to invest in harnesses for her to stay in rig no matter what as it currently only has lap belts. Buying off internet or craigs list is hard living here as I have to ship everything in or road trip 300+ miles to get to most of California's or Nevada's population centers.
, but if they are comfy and work and only $100 it seems that would be the ticket. Never having rode in off road suspension seats I'm not sure how nice they are. Definitely going to invest in harnesses for her to stay in rig no matter what as it currently only has lap belts. Buying off internet or craigs list is hard living here as I have to ship everything in or road trip 300+ miles to get to most of California's or Nevada's population centers.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
grandpas old red bought new in 65 285k rebuilt once everything else is stock except for no more split rims.
scooter was my last winters project, needed something to fit in garage as a car won't anymore, it's just a poor mans Harley (kawi 800a) here are before and after pics.Way to go Dad....
Girls need time like this with their Dads...
subscribed...p.s. nice looking scooter in that one shot.
Note the old model a ford turn signals and stop light, dad found it in desert years ago and I got it working.
Last edited:
The bike got me back wrenching as I use to have 30 ford truck that I rodded but when I moved to Bishop it just sat and it didn't make since to keep but when I sold it I was devastated and quit wrenching and had kids and lots of work on house for last several years but the bike was fun and easy to do and now the blazer build starts!! Having a blast getting back into it.
I actually commuted this thing back and forth from Palmdale to Van Nuys for 3 years.
I actually commuted this thing back and forth from Palmdale to Van Nuys for 3 years.
Thanks Man!
Nice to see one in that condition,and stock very cool! The bike and the old Ford rod are sweet too! Nice job!
now back to work. got the front springs in and ride height is now 23" from 17.75" so around 5". 
Drivers side
passenger side. The rear lower bolts on the hangers appear really close right now to the headers Please don't tell me I'm going to have to notch them. Everything is still loose right now but together, it looks as though when I tighten the bolt on passenger side it will be in contact with the header.
Drivers side
passenger side. The rear lower bolts on the hangers appear really close right now to the headers Please don't tell me I'm going to have to notch them. Everything is still loose right now but together, it looks as though when I tighten the bolt on passenger side it will be in contact with the header.
Trim off the excess bolt... The header will "self clearance"
