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Father-daughter 76 annihilator build

ahh the self notching hit the big rock technique, I'm sure my daughter has that in her bag of rod hall driving techniques, note the old front springs.
 
is there a gap between the bushing and shackle in this pic? May need to remedy that if so

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I believe Diy4x can provide custom lift spacers
If you replace the stock worn out bushings with more rubber type it won't matter what the lift spacer is made of
Give Kert a call!
 
for the exhaust. I've heard of guys putting a GOOD ratchet strap around the collectors and pulling them towards each other just enough and it usuaaly works. you'll have to go past where ya wanna be of course because of springback. should work though:waytogo: I'd be sure you think your headers are up to it though, itd suck to break a severly rusted one
 
I trimmed off excess u-bolts and then spent several hours trying to get the old pitman arm off with no luck. If anyone has any ideas please chime in, got bolts off but the inserts are stuck and even though jacked it up by pitman and used hammer it doesn't seem to be making any headway and i'm scared of using any more pressure then what I have on there already. Heating them with a torch came to mind but I don't want to damage studs so kind of stuck.:dunno:
 
That sounds like your steering arm. The pitman bolts to the steering box (also can be a bitch to get off)

If you applied a lot of upwards pressure, you might be screwed. The best way to get them off it downward and side to side pressure. The collars might have bit down tighter now that it's been whacked upwards. Use a propane torch to break down any rust around the collars. You might need to try to spin them, using a punch or screwdriver, or chisel. Whack down on the steering arm several times first. Then try to turn the collars with a hammer and chisel. What you're looking to do it just free them up some.

It's not a fun job. Most have had good luck with simple side to side hits, a lot are not so lucky. ME, well I ditched my 100% rebuilt D44 for a D60 before addressing the steering arm. :D Wait, no edit that. I went crossover and switched out both knuckles :) Ended up with a driver side with cut off studs.
 
I tried forcing them down first, then I tried the jack forcing the pitman arm( steering arm drop that came with the new 4in ord kit) up both ways the collars stay tight. Then I tried jack and hammer still nothing. Might look at getting a chisel or punch and just hitting the collars to see if I can get them loose or to even move. I don't see how torch will help unless just heating up the outside part will let metal expand enough to loosen the collars. problem being I think collars will expand also, or I will screw up the studs.
 
so if you put it all back together loosely could you drive the truck.

Thats may favorite way of getting those loose. Go drive the truck ( slowly duh) for a couple hundred feet, it will get em loose.
 
Now for a seat question, are the off road suspension seats worth the $ 250-300. I know as my ass gets older a nice seat is worth it but am considering seats off internet like 85 octanes Subaru seats. Its just funny to put Subaru parts in this rig:haha:, but if they are comfy and work and only $100 it seems that would be the ticket. Never having rode in off road suspension seats I'm not sure how nice they are. Definitely going to invest in harnesses for her to stay in rig no matter what as it currently only has lap belts. Buying off internet or craigs list is hard living here as I have to ship everything in or road trip 300+ miles to get to most of California's or Nevada's population centers.

I would be hard pressed not to run suspension seats anymore. Same goes for my wife and she wasn't thrilled about the price either. They just hold you in place better. I have had some luck buying used to save some money but sounds like that may not be as easy for you. Kert @ DIY4x has good prices on PRP seats.





for the exhaust. I've heard of guys putting a GOOD ratchet strap around the collectors and pulling them towards each other just enough and it usuaaly works. you'll have to go past where ya wanna be of course because of springback. should work though:waytogo: I'd be sure you think your headers are up to it though, itd suck to break a severly rusted one
The best way to do this is to run the exhaust up to full operating temp. Then you can pry them over with a bar. Carefully as not to pucker the collector with the bar. I had a 71 cuda that required some bending of the headers to clear the trans pan flange and that was how Hedman tech support told me to do it.
 
thanks guys for the ideas. They are headman headers and should be stout enough to handle a little movement. Driving it sounds easy:bow: some times the easy fixes elude me, will put back together loose and drive up and down street and see if they work there way out.
 
Just to expand: I said heat cause sometimes there can be some nastiness or rust around stuff you're trying to get off. The heat helps break up what's holding it. In this instance, not to expand anything, just break up. If its tight though, it's tight. Good luck with the driving it, sounds like a good plan.
 
so if you put it all back together loosely could you drive the truck.

Thats may favorite way of getting those loose. Go drive the truck ( slowly duh) for a couple hundred feet, it will get em loose.

My dad lives in Twin Falls and in three weeks or so I Plan on heading up by riggings for some Salmon fishing. Love your state still, keep California whackos out, they seem to be screwing up Nevada and Colorado now also and if you all don't watch out the first things that change are guns, fishing, off-roading and hunting. City Folk just don't care that they kill more deer with there beamers doing 90 then all hunting combined, and waste the meat just to rub it in. ( Done Ranting, just seeing all the things I love doing with my family disappearing)
 
Just to expand: I said heat cause sometimes there can be some nastiness or rust around stuff you're trying to get off. The heat helps break up what's holding it. In this instance, not to expand anything, just break up. If its tight though, it's tight. Good luck with the driving it, sounds like a good plan.

I understand now, it might break it down a little, just a little apprehensive about getting it very hot, will try if not successful with driving technique. How do you like your seats? been trying to watch craigs list and such for a pair, saw some in san diego awhile back but everything will have to align just right with a trip going down for a daughter drop off or visit or whatever to pull off getting some used. Will probably just order prp from kert as it sounds like they are well liked and worth the investment.
 
I grew up in the magic valley. Twin falls was the big city where I grew up, if you know the area I grew up in Oakley
 
don't know the area all that well dad has only lived up there about 10 yrs and I go up hunting and fishing two or three tijmes a year to help him with deer and elk hunts ( he is 75 ) and the rest is just good quality family time. Good chucker and a few pheasant trips also. He is learning the area still and having a blast.
 
just tried to get new brake lines on and ORD sent wrong yr kit- bummer, have to send back and get other on way on Monday. Wrong size bolts and fittings for 76 fronts, looks like kit is 79-98 with 10mm banjos. gu30011 instead I need gu30071. Will have to take a break and have a cold one:whistle:
 
just tried to get new brake lines on and ORD sent wrong yr kit- bummer, have to send back and get other on way on Monday. Wrong size bolts and fittings for 76 fronts, looks like kit is 79-98 with 10mm banjos. gu30011 instead I need gu30071. Will have to take a break and have a cold one:whistle:

have 2-3 there small:waytogo:
 
Ordered right brake lines, body lift, body mounts and steering weld in brace- should keep me busy for awhile. Need to get it back on the road my daughter misses it!!
 
Nice to see you working on this with your daughter.
 
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