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Finally build thread worthy material

Im not questioning this, I am just learning...

will I notice any "feel" from this mod? or is this a precautionary measure?
 
Precautionary.

However if your frame and crossmembers have some "wiggle" to them than this will help tighten up the front end and you may notice that in the steering.
 
New 4" bumpstops are in....going to install them tonight. Then its time to figure out how much fender cutting im going to need. gonna be a decent amount of trim goin on.
 
New bumpstops (arent they fancy)

And ANOTHER big thanks to 77_Jimmy for showing me how to replace the front wheel bearing (it was shot and was definitly the source of the wheel movement). She drives better for sure now. Took a 20 minute cruise last night, got the tire flat spots to go away and the tires ride alot better.

k5 bumpstop.jpg
 
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Need to try some fender trimming. I went over a small curb and heard the tire hit the fender.

Am i right by jacking up one wheel from the axle and seeing where it wil make contact, and then drawing a line and getting the angle grinder out?

wont there be a gap between the outer fender and the inner fender walls?
 
Yes, there will be a gap between the outer fender skin and it's inner structure. Cut the outer skin off, then cut the inner off.

The inner fender is different. Just cut like 6" off the bottom straight across from the fender to the frame. Then take a hammer and curl whats left up and back toward the firewall. Don't be gentle, hit it like you mean it.
 
We (Me & Chris, collectively) cut about 2" out of the rear of the front wheel well's.
We then beat the wheel wells (inner fender?) back, w/ a hammer....

I also cut off the fender "jowels" (metal that sticks down under the marker lights.

Just for referance, since we have the same damn truck... :D
IMG_3835-1.jpg



IMG_3867-1.jpg



My rear fender's didn't need any trimming....
IMG_3866-1.jpg
 
nice pics....that gives me a good starting place for trimming. I assume I can use my 4 ton jack to simulate the flexing to mark the fenders?

On another note, I am experiencing a metal-ish sounding grinding/vibration noise when I let off the gas around 45-55 mph. I first thought it could be the detroit making noise, but now I am not so sure.

I know that the driveshaft could be an issue, so I am starting there. I measured that I have 2 inches of yoke in the Tcase tail, and here is the angle of my rear driveshaft. (25 degrees)

What other measurements do I need? and does this sound familiar to anyone? I was supposed to be ok with a 4" lift...but my rough country springs gave me more than 4"

k5 driveshaft angle.jpg

k5 tcase angle 2.jpg

k5 yoke angle.jpg
 
That slip yoke looks way out to me. that dont look ok at all.
 
So as I understand it....I can

1. grind off the spring perches and rotate the pinion (although it looks like it points at the tcase pretty well right now. and go to a CV style driveshaft

or

2. get a SYE and my driveshaft lengthened to match

both of those will get me setup right and reduce any vibration.

do I have this right? I like option 2 the best for cost and ease....is that the right way to do this?

I agree the yoke is too far out....it was 2 inches in the tail when I measured...but has moved in further with the new springs starting to settle a bit....still not right. But, what do you think of the angle? will the sye and longer DS solve it?
 
The SYE and new shaft is expensive but also the ultimate fix.

I kinda split the difference and kept the slip yoke but had a new CV shaft made with a slip yoke at the front. I drive it everyday, 70mph, with zero vibration. And I wheel it on mild and moderate and some hard trails, basically anything short of "full on hardcore buggy" trails.

You may be close enough to just shim the pinion up for proper angle instead of cutting perches off.
 
again, im a total noob at this, so keep that in mind....but

my new rough country springs have a angled shim on them already (came like that) - isnt that what you are telling me to do?

Do I have my cost estimates right?
1. SYE kit = $340
2. custom driveshaft = $500 (but would it be a CV style? or just longer with a ujoint on each end and the ability to move in and out of itself)

CV is the double U joint on one end right?

3. is this when everyone does a tcase rebuild? whats the cost and difficulty of that?
 
dieselndixie said:
again, im a total noob at this, so keep that in mind....but

my new rough country springs have a angled shim on them already (came like that) - isnt that what you are telling me to do? In that case, adding shims would be like stacking blocks, not a good idea.

Do I have my cost estimates right?
1. SYE kit = $340
2. custom driveshaft = $500 (but would it be a CV style? or just longer with a ujoint on each end and the ability to move in and out of itself) Sounds about right.

CV is the double U joint on one end right? Yes, it's actually called a double cardan but most just refer to it as a CV.

3. is this when everyone does a tcase rebuild? whats the cost and difficulty of that? Hopefully someone else will chime in on this one.
Click to expand...

That should help.
 
I have a 4" Rough Country lift. Drove it daily on 33's and started also getting a nasty metalic sound with a bit of a vibration when I let off the gas, most times around 40 MPH. My driveshaft looked similar to yours, with the slip yoke just barely hanging on. I found that my pinion bearing/shims were smoked.
Leaving the truck in neutral (safely) I could crawl under it and twist the driveshaft side to side quite but also just push it up and down. To my surprise the seal wasn't even leaking somehow. The only difference is that was my old 10 bolt. So I called it quits with that and scrapped it for the 14 bolt. No more metal sounds when I let off the gas now. Maybe you should check to see if you have play in your pinion.

Also: High Angle Driveline sells the CV style shaft for like $650, no need for a SYE kit unless you want it, or do hardcore wheeling.

To properly measure the driveline "working" angle: measure the pinion angle and subtract it from your 25 degree driveshaft. My driveshaft is at 22* my pinion, at 10* my working angle is 12 degrees, still really steep. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this, but thats my understanding.

There are larger shims out there to shim it to a better angle. But cutting and re welding all the brackets is a more sufficient way of doing it.

Good luck!
 
dieselndixie said:
what is the proper term for the driveshaft that slides in and out of itself?
Click to expand...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a drive shaft with fixed yokes at each end would be called a slip shaft I think. It would basically be a longer version of the stock front shaft.
 
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