What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Finally build thread worthy material

dieselndixie said:
a crossmember spacer was also suggested...what are your thoughts on this? Doesnt that affect the angle of everything else? tcase, adapter, trans?
Click to expand...

You will get two different answers to this question. Some will very adamantly say no. Others will say go ahead and do it.

I say go ahead. See if it fixes the problem, even if only temporarily. I used two pieces of 1" bar stock on my '90 Blazer, and it worked fine.

Martin
 
82355 said:
You will get two different answers to this question. Some will very adamantly say no. Others will say go ahead and do it.

I say go ahead. See if it fixes the problem, even if only temporarily. I used two pieces of 1" bar stock on my '90 Blazer, and it worked fine.

Martin
Click to expand...

Is this the "T-case" drop??
 
82355 said:
You don't HAVE to have a CV shaft. A simple retube would be sufficient.

Martin
Click to expand...

I should have clarified that (although I did VIA a PM). You don't need a CV. But without it you put the u-joints at the limit or outside the limit of their working angle. This makes it easier to break one on the trail. Also wears them out faster than normal. I've heard of some people replacing them every 6-12 months.

My suggestion, fix it right the first time. If you're gonna spend the money on having the shaft retubed, go the extra and get it built with a double cardan.
 
went ahead and drove the k5 home during my lunch break, so that I wasnt sitting in traffic leaking fluid at 5pm here in Austin...

anyway, couple things.

1. how much of this vibration and shaking is the 37" military tires?
2. the vibrations are worse when I am on the gas, and not as bad when coasting
3. when I got him, im still leaking fluid more that I was before I drove it today, and it was pretty warm underneath the truck and kinda smelled like "hot" if that makes any sense. Is that just atf hitting things like muffler, etc?
 
dieselndixie said:
went ahead and drove the k5 home during my lunch break, so that I wasnt sitting in traffic leaking fluid at 5pm here in Austin...

anyway, couple things.

1. how much of this vibration and shaking is the 37" military tires? Not much if any at all. Tire shake is a slow wobbling and physically shakes the vehicle, more noticeable in the steering wheel.
2. the vibrations are worse when I am on the gas, and not as bad when coasting. This is the driveline. Pressure on the u-joints while under power, no pressure on them while coasting.
3. when I got him, im still leaking fluid more that I was before I drove it today, and it was pretty warm underneath the truck and kinda smelled like "hot" if that makes any sense. Is that just atf hitting things like muffler, etc? Yes
Click to expand...

:waytogo:
 
ok, im gonna call around and get some pricing, see what it would actually cost to do
1. sye, extended shaft with CV

2. just an extended shaft

and go from there.

i am going to check the bolts on my tcase/trans adapter when I get home...hope they are loose as hell!
 
Those 37" HMMWV radials have a good reputation for being smooth. The military puts them on beadlocks with no balancing on HMMWV's. I can say the ones at work are a lot smoother than the similar HMMWV's with the bias plies.
 
hell yes! i see cars in my shop daily with under 80k miles: suspension falling apart, every other gasket on the thing is puking, all kinds of intermittent problems, terrible looking cars at that! not even comfortable!!!
i hop in my 21 year old K5 at the end of the day and love it, even with the rust and missing dash and cracked windshield!! my truck has more character, ability and meaning than 90% of the scrap metal match boxes i see on the road.
have faith dieselndixie! that one day, sooner or later: you'll be cruisin around in your baby, no leaks or vibrations or concerns and any money you spent won't even be on your mind. the time you spend is a learning experience, you'll end up knowing your truck like a father knows his child.
i've had mine for like 8 years, and i really just started getting into it building it 2 years ago. its gotten worse, and better, and worse again, but im determined to get to that final product! drive it daily, wheel it on the weekends and make peoples heads turn! :waytogo:
stick with it pal!
 
Ok, just called a local driveline shop (Inland Truck)

They said...

1. my old yoke wont work, so I would need to provide a new one?
2. They need a measurement of center to center U-joint cups
3. would be about $300 for the labor/work (i assume all I need to provide is the actual yoke and my current driveshaft)

I simply told them, my current driveshaft is too short, I need mine lengthened and a CV joint added to the slip yoke end. Is that accruate?

I am needing to get real world prices on things now...next I will be pricing doing the SYE and shaft.
 
The slip yoke that will work with a CV is a specific application. The shop that did mine provided it for the new shaft. Was not in stock, they had to order it.

Best way to get a cap to cap measurement, remove the d-shaft, remove the slip yoke from the u-joint, slide it into the t-case and leave a proper amount of shaft exposed (this is to account for suspension uptravel), and measure from the center of the yokes u-joint cap hole to the center of the u-joint cap hole on the pinion.

I would say.... 2" of the slip yoke shaft exposed is a safe bet. Someone correct me if they think otherwise.

Come to think of it, you don't need to remove the yoke from the shaft. Just unbolt it from the pinion, slide it into the t-case and let the shaft hang. Now you can measure from cap to pinion.

Oh, and maybe this goes without saying, you want the weight of the truck on it's axles/tires. So, chock the wheels before unbolting the driveshaft.
 
I was condsidering ordering a shaft from "Denny's Driveshaft". Their website has a couple printable pages with diagrams to show you what to measure aaaand how to measure it. You can also get a new yoke from them if needed. I still may get the shaft from them, they seem dependable and focused on quality.
 
You could try a SYE and a front shaft from 7.3 PSD F250 4x4. I picked one up from a junkyard for about $225, lucked out and it didn't need to have the length adjusted. Then you a have a 1350 output on your t-case and 1350 cv shaft.
 
Just a word of advice from past experience.....don't over-torque the bolts when you re-attach the driveline to the rear axle yoke. I misread a torque reading and just kept cranking and cranking. Twisted the bolt off inside the yoke. Had to go to junkyard to get another one. Very upsetting to say the least!

Yes, embarrassing but learn from my mistake.:doah:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=282797
 
so, how about these $50 bully steps....do they kill your ground clearance or get hung up on stuff?

Its too tall to climb in without it....says the wife.

what options do i have....on the cheap.
 
dieselndixie said:
so, how about these $50 bully steps....do they kill your ground clearance or get hung up on stuff?

Its too tall to climb in without it....says the wife.

what options do i have....on the cheap.
Click to expand...

what about a rock slider from Diy4x that's what I did for my wife :waytogo:
 
I built my own out of rebar, angle iron, and expanded steel. Four bolts and the come right off :)
 
$50 for a pair ofthese things doesnt sound too bad...but how do they mount? Edit - scratch that...i dont want to kill the ground clearance and rip them off. and I didnt know they just bolt to the rockers.
 
Last edited:
trea18 has it right. rock sliders are the way to go. and they should be easy enough to fabricate, or buy some, or a kit. it will double as a step and as body protection. as far as your wife getting in the truck, look at some stepside handles. they mount to the B piller to grab and pull yourself up. LMC has some i know, not sure who else. probably JC whit

last year i replaced one of my rocker panels, went to find some mud & trails 2 days later and crushed my brand new rocker on a tree stump i didn't even see. epic fail. i'll be doing some sliders soon enough, most likely with rectangular tube.

did you ever get a new shaft? i just ordered one from Tom Wood's, CV style with a slip yoke, all new 1350 u joints and a new pinion yoke for the rear for $570. (free shipping). i'll post a picture of it when it comes in. the guys sounded like they new their stuff.
 
$570! wow, i bet thats a nice one. So you didnt go with a SYE. What is your lift and tire setup? Pics would be awesome.

I am still arguing with myself....SYE and CV or just longer CV shaft with yoke....Actually, I am arguing with my wallet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom