This is how I'm going to paint mine, I think it brings out the old in the new if that makes sense.
CK5
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Finally... my 5.3 swap
- Thread starter MAX89K5
- Start date
Diggin that too!
Made some good progress today
Just mock up
Also dug this sucker out
I'm happy [emoji6]
Just mock up
Also dug this sucker out
I'm happy [emoji6]
Looks good. Good work on the stud too.
I never had any issues with exhaust studs. Never knew it was an issue, or I wouldn't have used my impact to remove the manifolds when i did. 
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I will not.
Made some good progress the past couple days.
Weeded through the harness and got it completed minus loom. Want to get it running before wrapping it up.
Just followed the how to on lt1swap.com, I thought it was quite fun. [emoji6]
Here is the fuse box I plan to use, these come out of late 90s ferd 150s. I used this same type box on my last build and I love the arrangement, easy to modify and repin.
You can see my TAC module mounted and another relay block for my headlights.
Also got the trans torn down and installed my modified transgo shift kit. Put together by Dana at Probuilt Automatics. It has the transgo kit with a vette servo, all new accumulator pistons, sonnax 2-3 valve and .500 boost valve, along with a slew of springs. He put it together as a HD 4X4 kit for moderate driving.
Weeded through the harness and got it completed minus loom. Want to get it running before wrapping it up.
Just followed the how to on lt1swap.com, I thought it was quite fun. [emoji6]
Here is the fuse box I plan to use, these come out of late 90s ferd 150s. I used this same type box on my last build and I love the arrangement, easy to modify and repin.
You can see my TAC module mounted and another relay block for my headlights.
Also got the trans torn down and installed my modified transgo shift kit. Put together by Dana at Probuilt Automatics. It has the transgo kit with a vette servo, all new accumulator pistons, sonnax 2-3 valve and .500 boost valve, along with a slew of springs. He put it together as a HD 4X4 kit for moderate driving.
Which transmission are you running. 4L60e.
Yessir
What are y'all running for trans cooler lines in your swaps? The 700R4 lines are smaller in diameter than the 4l60e lines, worried about fluid starvation..
I usually just get lines from the dealer the modify them to attach to the trans cooler. The later 4l60Es have a funky quick disconnect fitting that requires an equally funky flare to mate up. Lines are pretty cheap (80ish for a pair) and save a lot of time over trying to build them yourself.
Thats what I plan on, got it somewhat figured out now. Thanks
Alright y'all I need some help.
I fought with this transmission for 3 hours today trying to get it bolted up. The motor WAS in but after struggling and cussing under the truck with a friend's help I decided to pull the motor.
Got it out and fought for another couple hours and still cannot get the bellhousing to mate with the motor.
I lack about 3/8" between the two and can just barely get the alignment dowels to engage. I even unbolted the torque converter, put it on the trans input shaft all the way and then tried to bolt it all up to the engine and still couldn't get it. What are y'alls thoughts?
Here's where I left it for tonight
I fought with this transmission for 3 hours today trying to get it bolted up. The motor WAS in but after struggling and cussing under the truck with a friend's help I decided to pull the motor.
Got it out and fought for another couple hours and still cannot get the bellhousing to mate with the motor.
I lack about 3/8" between the two and can just barely get the alignment dowels to engage. I even unbolted the torque converter, put it on the trans input shaft all the way and then tried to bolt it all up to the engine and still couldn't get it. What are y'alls thoughts?
Here's where I left it for tonight
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Im willing to bet the torque converter is not fully seated in the pump.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh goodness. Just read a little more!
Dont do this! You need to read on how to properly install a torque converter.
Dont do this! You need to read on how to properly install a torque converter.
Make sure the torque converter is fully seated into the transmission!! The last 1/2" can be a bugger to get the tangs on the converter and pump to line up, if you try to bolt it up with the converter bound up against the pump you will break the pump and totally ruin your day (several days really). When the converter is fully seated their will be less than a 1/4" between the torque converter and the pump housing which can be a little difficult to judge with the bolt on belhousing. The converter should be free to turn when the motor is bolted up to the transmission, if it is not then there is a problem that needs to be taken care of before going any farther.
P.S. might be easier to install the cooler lines while the engine and trans are out.
P.S. might be easier to install the cooler lines while the engine and trans are out.
I half way got it now.
I turned the trans on end, input shaft up. Set the converter on the shaft and slowly spun it. It dropped twice and then felt much more solid while spinning. Got the transmission to meet the engine no problem after that but then I tried to put the bolts in for the torque converter and there was a gap between the two.
Could the converter be engaged too deeply and cause this gap between the converter and flywheel?
How do I know if I caused the pump any damage? Will it be visibly cracked on the exterior of the case?
Thanks for all the input y'all
I turned the trans on end, input shaft up. Set the converter on the shaft and slowly spun it. It dropped twice and then felt much more solid while spinning. Got the transmission to meet the engine no problem after that but then I tried to put the bolts in for the torque converter and there was a gap between the two.
Could the converter be engaged too deeply and cause this gap between the converter and flywheel?
How do I know if I caused the pump any damage? Will it be visibly cracked on the exterior of the case?
Thanks for all the input y'all
Should be a quarter inch-ish gap between the two, it's ok to pull them together now.
If you got animal with the bolts trying to pull the engine and trans together the pump is probably toast, if you just wiggled everything trying to get it together than it will be ok. Does the converter spin ok? A lot of times if the pump gear is broke the converter will feel funny or have tight spots when spinning.
If you got animal with the bolts trying to pull the engine and trans together the pump is probably toast, if you just wiggled everything trying to get it together than it will be ok. Does the converter spin ok? A lot of times if the pump gear is broke the converter will feel funny or have tight spots when spinning.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
As long as you didnt really torque on the bolts the pump should be ok. And no, the damage would be internal. Possibly seen with a flash light with the torque converter out of the way.
As for the gap between the coverter and flex plate(its not a flywheel, its a flex plate in a n automatic), there is normally a gap there. I forget what the max gap is but i want to say its around 1/4"? Might have to google that one. So yes, the gap should be ok. Just slide the converter out to meet the flex plate and bolt it up!
As for the gap between the coverter and flex plate(its not a flywheel, its a flex plate in a n automatic), there is normally a gap there. I forget what the max gap is but i want to say its around 1/4"? Might have to google that one. So yes, the gap should be ok. Just slide the converter out to meet the flex plate and bolt it up!
