K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
U might be over thinking this a little. Any machine in your budget will work fine for what your wanting to do. 
CK5
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finnally ordered a welder: started floor repair. have a couple questions
- Thread starter metalneverdies
- Start date
26 gauge is pretty damn thin fyi. Thats like .0179 inches. Floor panels and such are closer to 16 gauge which is alot thicker than 26.
one thing to consider once you step up to the 7, $800 range is if the power levels are stepped, or infinite.. stepped, such as the hobart, CAN be a nuiscance on occasion if your inbetween levels so to speak on a specific weld.. whereas my Miller 180 has an infinite knob, fully adjustable..
I'm always about as big a welder as you can afford.. 220 all the way if you have the capability at the house... but a 110 would do all those projects easily, just a bit slower maybe... start doing beefy 1/4 and 3/8 plate projects, and the chamfering and special prep for a 110 machine gets a bit old...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
If you want to do bumpers and sliders I would suggest a 220v machine. Ryokens right, more money will get you a "rheostat" style amperage knob rather than one with predetermined steps in it which can be really nice.
Straight amperage rating wise any 220v machine will do the work you're talking about with ease and have room to do heavier work.
Straight amperage rating wise any 220v machine will do the work you're talking about with ease and have room to do heavier work.
Well, I think I am going to order the hobart handler 190. Its already over my budget by a couple hundred. But I can do everything that I need. I cant see myself welding anything over 1/4 in the near future.
It doesnt have the constantly adjustable voltage/ amp setting but I just cant justify $800 plus for a welder at this point. Especially having to add in gloves, helmet, welding jacket, and more grinder attachments.
For now I will just run flux core.
It doesnt have the constantly adjustable voltage/ amp setting but I just cant justify $800 plus for a welder at this point. Especially having to add in gloves, helmet, welding jacket, and more grinder attachments.
For now I will just run flux core.
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
welding rules dude!
What is the best place to buy my gear?
The cyberweld site seems to have good deals on gloves.
I was thinking of just getting the lincoln brand helmet from HD. Or should i find a better one?
Flux core splatters alot so it was making me think I should invest in at least a cotton jacket.
Do I need a welding blanket or two if I am welding flux core in the truck? ( seat belts, dash, and side pNnels are still inside. No carpet)
The cyberweld site seems to have good deals on gloves.
I was thinking of just getting the lincoln brand helmet from HD. Or should i find a better one?
Flux core splatters alot so it was making me think I should invest in at least a cotton jacket.
Do I need a welding blanket or two if I am welding flux core in the truck? ( seat belts, dash, and side pNnels are still inside. No carpet)
Weld nekkid 
Lol but i might burn my winky
lol good point....
Cotton is good. Nothing polyester or nylon material. Stuff will catch fire and thats no good. Denim Jeans and some tall boots keep sparks off your feet.
I prefer an autoshade mask but thats up to you. Harbor freight has some for pretty decent price that Ive heard people say work well.
And where a hat if you dont want your hair to catch on fire
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
Budget is a factor. But remember, you only get one set of eyes! I bought a cheap hood that I still have but bought the nicest one on the market(IMO) as soon as I had the money!
I bought this one or one really similar. Has adjustable sensitivity and darkness shades. Works awesome.
http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=1000F-0100
The best ones Ive seen are the speedglas ones and those puppies can go $600 EASY.
http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=1000F-0100
The best ones Ive seen are the speedglas ones and those puppies can go $600 EASY.
Remember, DO NOT weld withour ear plugs. People have burnt holes in their ear drums not protecting their ears.
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
BLUIDVL
1/2 ton status
Not sure if you have pulled the trigger and purchased a welder.
If not I would recomend the Miller 211 autoset, does 110/220 with the ease of changing a plug. Might be a little more than you want to spend but in the longrun, it will be worth it.
Ive had mine for about a year and love it, one of my smarter purchases.
If not I would recomend the Miller 211 autoset, does 110/220 with the ease of changing a plug. Might be a little more than you want to spend but in the longrun, it will be worth it.
Ive had mine for about a year and love it, one of my smarter purchases.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
I would get a lincoln 180 I think I paid 750 for mine and I got a free auto dark hood. And mine is the 180c model so its infinitly adjustable
Where / how long ago did you buy it?
I'll throw in my 2 cents on welding and gear if nobody minds.
I don't waste my time with the big heavy welding gloves. I just wear a decent pair of leather gloves. Two main reasons for this. I can wear the thinner leather gloves for pretty much any job around the shop and protect my hands pretty well. They work good for welding and don't tire my hands as quickly. The heavier the glove the harder you'll squeeze without even knowing you're doing it. Your hands get tired. As far as protecting your hands from a burn, HEY! don't grab the piece that's glowing. That is what a pair of pliers or a clamp is for. Assume everything is to hot and you'll be fine. Mechanics gloves, not for welding.
I don't wear ear plugs but 99% of the time i'm welding at a bench. When you get in a wierd position is when the sparks start going odd places. I believe welding can be loud enough in some spots to damage hearing just from the sizzle. Meh, already past that point. It is nice to knock the volume down sometimes though.
Hoods, I have some decent ones and some cheap ones. For standing at a bench and welding it doesn't take much of a hood to get the job done. Some of the really cheap ones, you'll notice the suck in the brakes or the stop point of the head gear. The brakes will loosen and pretty soon the hood is chopping you in the chest. The smallest lenses are kinda lame and sometimes you'll flash yourself with the cheaper ones by blocking the one and only sensor they put in the hood. More sensors is better and more cash. I have an old Jackson that just keeps on ticking. Good hood.
Anti spatter spray. Worth its weight in gold.
Tip dip, worth twice its weight in gold. Gotta season the cone though. Keep using it and it will work better all the time.
There is a difference in welding wire. I use pretty much exclusively L56 unless I have a specific job. Keep some .023 on hand and use .035 for production.
Keep some extra tips on hand. They're cheap and nothing worse than frying your last one.
As to the machine itself, I'm also of the bigger is better school of thought. You can do quite a bit to make a bigger machine weld thin material successfully but not much you can do to make a small machine weld bigger. I used to own a 110 machine back in the day. Sometimes I wish I still had it. If you have one, keep it. I have a 220 machine. Rarely use it. We have 3 phase machines for production which I understand is not practical for the garage unless you're lucky enough to have 3 phase in your garage. The power is there and much smoother. Bigger is better, but 110 is better than nothing.
Gas tanks, if you plan on welding much, get a big tank. I think fill charges are the same for any size of tank so with a bigger tank you get a better deal. Not to many reasons I can think of to get a smaller tank. Except initial cost, the rest are kinda moot and the initial price will be moot right after you get it. I don't own any of my tanks. I rent them all. Seems all the major suppliers have their own gimmick/headache as far as owning or renting goes. Ask the questions though and find out what works best for you. I think the less welding you do the more feasible it is to own your own tank, odd as that may be. Tank certification and all that biz.
All I can think of right now.
I don't waste my time with the big heavy welding gloves. I just wear a decent pair of leather gloves. Two main reasons for this. I can wear the thinner leather gloves for pretty much any job around the shop and protect my hands pretty well. They work good for welding and don't tire my hands as quickly. The heavier the glove the harder you'll squeeze without even knowing you're doing it. Your hands get tired. As far as protecting your hands from a burn, HEY! don't grab the piece that's glowing. That is what a pair of pliers or a clamp is for. Assume everything is to hot and you'll be fine. Mechanics gloves, not for welding.
I don't wear ear plugs but 99% of the time i'm welding at a bench. When you get in a wierd position is when the sparks start going odd places. I believe welding can be loud enough in some spots to damage hearing just from the sizzle. Meh, already past that point. It is nice to knock the volume down sometimes though.
Hoods, I have some decent ones and some cheap ones. For standing at a bench and welding it doesn't take much of a hood to get the job done. Some of the really cheap ones, you'll notice the suck in the brakes or the stop point of the head gear. The brakes will loosen and pretty soon the hood is chopping you in the chest. The smallest lenses are kinda lame and sometimes you'll flash yourself with the cheaper ones by blocking the one and only sensor they put in the hood. More sensors is better and more cash. I have an old Jackson that just keeps on ticking. Good hood.
Anti spatter spray. Worth its weight in gold.
Tip dip, worth twice its weight in gold. Gotta season the cone though. Keep using it and it will work better all the time.
There is a difference in welding wire. I use pretty much exclusively L56 unless I have a specific job. Keep some .023 on hand and use .035 for production.
Keep some extra tips on hand. They're cheap and nothing worse than frying your last one.
As to the machine itself, I'm also of the bigger is better school of thought. You can do quite a bit to make a bigger machine weld thin material successfully but not much you can do to make a small machine weld bigger. I used to own a 110 machine back in the day. Sometimes I wish I still had it. If you have one, keep it. I have a 220 machine. Rarely use it. We have 3 phase machines for production which I understand is not practical for the garage unless you're lucky enough to have 3 phase in your garage. The power is there and much smoother. Bigger is better, but 110 is better than nothing.
Gas tanks, if you plan on welding much, get a big tank. I think fill charges are the same for any size of tank so with a bigger tank you get a better deal. Not to many reasons I can think of to get a smaller tank. Except initial cost, the rest are kinda moot and the initial price will be moot right after you get it. I don't own any of my tanks. I rent them all. Seems all the major suppliers have their own gimmick/headache as far as owning or renting goes. Ask the questions though and find out what works best for you. I think the less welding you do the more feasible it is to own your own tank, odd as that may be. Tank certification and all that biz.
All I can think of right now.
I know noone would actually believe this could happen, but with a new to welding guy I HAVE to tell you, DON'T weld on your tanks!!!!!!! YOU WILL DIE WHEN THEY EXPLODE!!!! The shop manager at my last machine shop has a shop in Mexico. He knew a guy that ended up actually trying to weld a bracked to a tank. OF COURSE it exploded and it vaporized him, so don't do that please lol!
It makes me feel terrible but
There is a level of stupid you just cant fix
Thank you all for the input. Has been a great help.
