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First Vehicle... *pictures*

You have a 700R4 overdrive transmission, do a search on "TV cable adjustment" and that should fix your problem.
 
Avery4jc said:
Yeah it's a two wheel drive truck as of now, I just drive it in 2high until I can get Tom Woods to cut me a dual CV drive shaft when I have the $$$.
Thanks for looking at it!

-Avery
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I'd call big Jess at HAD (High Angle Driveline), he's a vendor here and I've never heard one thing that's bad about his product, and most of all, his service. You probably don't need a DUAL CV shaft...lots of guys have 12" lifts and don't need one. I'd give him a call, though, and ask him what he thinks would be best for ya as he ain't gonna give you anything you don't need, ya know?
 
89GMCSuburban said:
I'd call big Jess at HAD (High Angle Driveline), he's a vendor here and I've never heard one thing that's bad about his product, and most of all, his service. You probably don't need a DUAL CV shaft...lots of guys have 12" lifts and don't need one. I'd give him a call, though, and ask him what he thinks would be best for ya as he ain't gonna give you anything you don't need, ya know?
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Ok, I didn't really have any history with any companies (obviously) and I had heard good things about Tom Woods so I was going to give him a call but I'll be more than happy to support a local CK5 vendor.

-Avery
 
Avery4jc said:
Thanks for the compliments guys, roadnotca it reads PRNDD21.
I just got home from school so I'll post up some detailed shots shortly of the truck.

-Avery
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OK, if you search 700R4 or sim, you will find a ton of info, same on the WWW. This thread is too long to go search again so what year is this and how many (real) miles? BTW, no modulator, the 700 gets it's input from a mechanical cable called TVS.
You should imediately fix the dipstick tube, whatever it is thats incorrect there, and the ATF level must be at EXACTLY where GM says its supposed to be (whatever literature you have). I say fix the dipstick tube because if its out of its socket, you can't read the ATF level. Generally, check ATF with tranny at operating temp (warm), on level ground (important) and in park. Once thats all PERFECT, then you MUST adjust the TVS cable. The process for that is in the manuals and also on the web. Bowtie Overdrive has thorough instructions on how to adjust it.
The only thing a "shift kit" will do for the 700R4 is kill it fast.
This is info I have gathered while postponing the death of my 700 until I could figure it out and replace it. Other readers will have differing opinions and experiences, and that wide range of info should tell you something, 700R4 is fragile more often than not.
Oh, the second "D" on the selector is overdrive, or 4th.
 
Yeah that dash is something else. I see its a Gov-lock but I'm not familiar enough to know the significance of "55", anybody? Avery, get yourself the gasket for the front differential cover, you are going to change the diff. oil; actually you should do the rear also, but lets just start with the front before anything else. Hold off on ordering a front shaft for now.
 
78Suburban said:
That Dash is BAWLIN :bow:

nice truck, BTW.
James
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Thanks, I wasn't so sure about it at first but being in high school it's going to have to stay. ;)


roadnotca said:
Yeah that dash is something else. I see its a Gov-lock but I'm not familiar enough to know the significance of "55", anybody? Avery, get yourself the gasket for the front differential cover, you are going to change the diff. oil; actually you should do the rear also, but lets just start with the front before anything else. Hold off on ordering a front shaft for now.
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The plates are from the old owner, his name was George Loc... and his football number was 55. I'll get them swapped over to mine soon enough.

Ok on to the tech stuff I think there is some confusion as to what dip stick tube, it's not the ATF tube, it's the engine oil dip stick tube. I need to run down to the parts store and get a new assembly for it.
Ok next, yes with the help of you guys I figured out that it's a 700r4 that he has in there and I have also learned that it doesn't have a vaccuum modulator valve but uses a TV cable for adjustment. I pulled a tutorial off of a website as to how to adjust it and I'll work on it when I have the time but before I drive it for sure.
As for the diff. gasket and changing the oil, did you come to that conclusion from the short vid. or is it just a routine thing to do for you guys when you get a "new" truck just to be confident? I know the rear is leaking but wasn't going to worry about the front since I'm driving it in 2 high for now, am I incorrect or did you think the front looked like it needed it more?

Phew so many questions, I don't know what I would do without you guys, thanks a million!

-Avery
 
Sorry for the double post but I re-read roadnotca's post again and it has 26,000 miles off of the rebuild (I have papers for it too) and it's an 85'.

-Avery
 
No prob. I was just wondering why you suggested new gaskets thats all. The reason I don't have the front shaft in is because the suspension lift from superlift comes with a spacer that is supposed to be used in conjunction with the stock shaft and I just didn't trust it. I have the stock driveshaft though.

-Avery
 
Avery4jc said:
No prob. I was just wondering why you suggested new gaskets thats all. The reason I don't have the front shaft in is because the suspension lift from superlift comes with a spacer that is supposed to be used in conjunction with the stock shaft and I just didn't trust it. I have the stock driveshaft though.

-Avery
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I suggested the new gasket because it has to be replaced whenever you open the diff. So you bought the truck with the fr shaft removed?:confused:
 
the oil dipstick tube isn't supposed to come off if you pull it? I thought this was normal. I'm pretty sure mine does, I'll check tomrrow and see. Maybe I've missed something basic, but I thought it just kinda pressed snug into the engine, but could easily be pulled out.
thanks,
James
 
OK, here's an easy check. The hubs are unlocked, otherwise you couldn't be driving. Crawl under and turn the input yoke by hand. Cross your fingers:rolleyes:
 
78Suburban said:
the oil dipstick tube isn't supposed to come off if you pull it? I thought this was normal. I'm pretty sure mine does, I'll check tomrrow and see. Maybe I've missed something basic, but I thought it just kinda pressed snug into the engine, but could easily be pulled out.
thanks,
James
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They can be loose, snug, or a SOB.
 
Go ahead and flame the stupid newbie but I must have missed something, since when am I worried about my front driveshaft? I'll do whatever you guys say but what am I checking for? Yes they are unlocked and I'll turn the yoke but what am I worried about?

-Avery
 
The hubs are unlocked, otherwise you couldn't be driving
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Umm why not? If there is no front driveshaft why would it matter if the hubs are in or not? I used to drive with the hubs locked in all the time in the winter.

Avery I am not sure what the concern is with the front driveshaft, but yeah just unlock the hubs spin the yoke, and you should be able to see the axle joints at the steering knuckles spin. Lock the hubs in and try it again you shouldn't see the joints spin. If all that happens then the front end is fine. I imagine the front shaft is removed to due length or angle issues with 9" of lift.


You don't need a gasket for the diffs if you change the fluid. I would bet 90% of the members here use RTV. Actually there was a poll on it within the last 6 months. Clean up both surfaces and RTV it up. Never used a gasket on the diffs before, but just my opinion:wink1:


As for the oil dipstick. As mentioned some of them pull out easily. I believe there should be an O-ring where it goes into the pan. Check that for leaks.


Get the TV cable adjusted ASAP. That will kill a 700R4 fast if adjusted incorrectly.
 
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