You should install the rear drive shaft before you unhook. You will need to have the t case in neutral to line up the shaft with the rear yoke. Yes the parking brake can and should be used, maybe even a wheel chock. If still hooked to coach twice the safety.
That defeats the purpose of driving in fwd to quickly park the rig. Its not like I would ever unhook on uneven ground. My parking brake does work btw. If I lock the hubs and put it in 4wd then I can park with the parking brake and leave the trans in gear. Its the same amount of redundancy as having the rear shaft in with the truck in 2wd. Then when Im parked in a flat level spot I can just use the parking brake, unlock the hubs and put everything in neutral to line up the flange to install the rear shaft. That would be a lot faster to get the toad off the RV and everything parked.
Thanks but I ordered a Ready Brake last night. We will see how it works.
After working out a few kinks it worked great. At first I definitely had too many links in the chain and the blazer would wobble around behind the RV quite a bit. At first, the Blazer would rock back and forth quite a bit. Bad enough that I drove it about 1500 miles on a trip and it badly wore the front tires on the Blazer. Initially, in between the Blazer and RV I had a receiver drop, ready brake and tow bar and the way I had mounted the tow bar to the blazer was not great so there was a ton of play. Once I built a new front bumper for the Blazer I was able to delete the receiver drop which got rid of a fair bit of slop in between the rigs and I was also able to use thicker D-ring mounts so I could ditch the washers I was using previously and that also took out a lot of slop.
