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Flexplate to crank bolt torque

82355 said:
Go, on.

Martin
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You know what Martin, you got it.

Piss the hell off. Stop trolling the forums.

If you don't want to use torque specs then don't, I really don't give a flying **** what you do. But don't come in here telling people it's not necessary and then raise a fuss when people call you on it.

For someone that is a journeyman mechanic you surely don't act like one.
 
Excessive use of a torque wrench is not something a "journeyman" mechanic does.

I was merely pointing out that my information was no more accurate than what you received on here. You were first told that the spec was 75 lb.ft, then Scott said that there was a different spec, depending upon which crankshaft us have, one or two piece rear main seal. You posted that you have the one piece rear main seal, and said that you hoped it was 75 lb.ft, so I assume that is what you went ahead and torqued it to. Scott then replied that the spec for a one piece rear main seal was in fact only 60 lb.ft, I believe he is probably correct. I assume he looked it up, and I have faith that he is giving out correct information. Then after you began the pissing match with me, you state that the spec is, and I quote: "65 ft lbs, as the manual says". I am not sure if this is the spec that you ended up finding in whatever manual you were originally looking in, or if you just said the wrong number because you didn't exactly remember what Scott told you. Either way, any of those specs will work just fine, 60, 65, or 75 lb.ft. Sorry that you feel the need to get angry.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Excessive use of a torque wrench is not something a "journeyman" mechanic does.

I was merely pointing out that my information was no more accurate than what you received on here.
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No, that's not what you were doing and to say so is BS. You didn't point out anything about your or anyone else information!

You flat out said there was no need to use a torque wrench and said nothing about what was or was not the correct torque. Neither did you comment on any of the said torque suggestions in this thread. No you claim to say otherwise?


How on earth did I get stuck in this thread? For the love of Christ stop posting, please. My anger is from you and nothing else. I could go to pirate4x4 and get this kind of feedback.
 
82355 said:
So you use a torque wrench on every single fastener that has a torque spec? I am gonna go ahead and call you a liar if you answer yes to that.

Martin
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I thought i was done with this thread but i will answer your question. YES, i torque EVERY bolt on an engine that has a torque spec listed and if there is no spec listed then i go by the bolt diameter and the torque value for that diameter bolt depending on the grade of bolt it is. Now you can go ahead and call me a liar all you want.
 
You torque the distributor hold down? I'll be damned. How about when people you wingnuts hold downs on valve covers???

Martin
 
cuervo said:
No, that's not what you were doing and to say so is BS. You didn't point out anything about your or anyone else information!

You flat out said there was no need to use a torque wrench and said nothing about what was or was not the correct torque. Neither did you comment on any of the said torque suggestions in this thread. No you claim to say otherwise?


How on earth did I get stuck in this thread? For the love of Christ stop posting, please. My anger is from you and nothing else. I could go to pirate4x4 and get this kind of feedback.
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You are correct. I merely said that there was no need to use a torque wrench. I did not know what the actual torque spec was, so instead of giving out inaccurate information, I did not post a number that I thought might be the number from the manual. I also never said that you shouldn't use a torque wrench, just that it wasn't necessary. If you want to, go right ahead. I am sorry that you get so angry when someone doesn't agree with you. I really don't know what to say to you about that.

Martin
 
82355 said:
You torque the distributor hold down? I'll be damned. How about when people you wingnuts hold downs on valve covers???

Martin
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Yes sir, 30 lbs on a grade 5 dry bolt or 23 with a lubricated bolt.

I don't use those cheap wingnut hold downs.
 
cuervo said:
And the purpose of this post is what? More trolling?
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Do you torque that bolt? It has a torque spec. How about the bellhousing bolts to hold the transmission up against the back of the block?

Martin
 
4X4HIGH said:
Yes sir, 30 lbs on a grade 5 dry bolt or 23 with a lubricated bolt.

I don't use those cheap wingnut hold downs.
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Haha, do you use a torque adapter and hold it at 90 degrees and blah blah blah???

I would be mildly entertained to see someone trying to torque that bolt. How about the bellhousing bolts? That really has to suck getting those. That and the bolts in the v belt bracketry.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Haha, do you use a torque adapter and hold it at 90 degrees and blah blah blah???

I would be mildly entertained to see someone trying to torque that bolt. How about the bellhousing bolts? That really has to suck getting those. That and the bolts in the v belt bracketry.

Martin
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Look, Tim has it right, you are trolling here. I use a crowsfoot and i'm able to get a straight shot at the bolt (with the crowsfoot attached). I think i'm going to make a torque spec chart for EVERY fastener on a SBC and see if someone can make it a sticky thread somewhere so we don't have to ever listen to your shenanigans again.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Look, Tim has it right, you are trolling here. I use a crowsfoot and i'm able to get a straight shot at the bolt (with the crowsfoot attached). I think i'm going to make a torque spec chart for EVERY fastener on a SBC and see if someone can make it a sticky thread somewhere so we don't have to ever listen to your shenanigans again.
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You do realize that you are not getting a correct torque reading with a crowsfoot, right? Also, a straight shot is hard to believe.

Oh, and you never answered my question about torquing the bellhousing bolts.

Martin
 
You sure wouldn't make it far in the world of aircraft maintenance. Life is all about the torque wrench here.
When I'm home I will get a little lax about it, but, engine, trans, gearboxes, even rims/tires get torqued now.
My old 70's model 350 flywheel bolts? Not so much, everything else, definitely.
 
82355 said:
You do realize that you are not getting a correct torque reading with a crowsfoot, right? Also, a straight shot is hard to believe.

Oh, and you never answered my question about torquing the bellhousing bolts.

Martin
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I can guarantee that i am waaaaay closer to the spec using a crowsfoot than you are using your guesstimated impact gun or whatever else you decide to use to "torque" a fastener.

You do realize there is a formula to figure out final torque based on using different things such as a crowsfoot and extensions right? You are correct that the torque changes but i never said i haven't accounted for the correction factor. :deal:

You wouldn't believe me anyways even if i told you i torque bellhousing bolts so why waste my breath. Just keep doing things your way and don't post about it here, it seems that no one wants to hear anymore from you about torque related topics.
 
This thread is funny. Mains, Rods, Heads they need torqued.
 
Oh and FYI, if that cast chevy crank costs $1200 your getting screwed. I can buy Callies for that.
 
80' 427 said:
Oh and FYI, if that cast chevy crank costs $1200 your getting screwed. I can buy Callies for that.
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Crankshaft- Part # 12489436 Forged 4340 Steel, Externally Balanced, 383 Stroker crank.

But thanks for the feedback.
 
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