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flushing my power steering

NEK5

NEK5

3/4 ton status
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I did search but all I could find was how to flush with Hyrdoboost, so here goes:
The other day I blew a PS hose, because what i believe was water froze up and the pressure expanded and bursted the hose off the hard line. Now I know a lot of fluid came out, but should I still flush it? If so, how?
 
idk but i blew out 3 hoses in a week ( im retarted and let them rub the belts:doah: ) discount has a good waranty though:D . when i did it i just let the truck idle and keep filling it bc it would pump it through the sys and start whining, after that it would froth, then i just let it sit ther for idk maybe 30mins and it was fine...idk why you would flush the system
 
Well, incase there`s any water left, to get it out...

Do I have to do this? Or can i just fix hose, fill it up, then "bleed" it to get all the air out?
 
Use a long spout funnel in the resevoir to pour fluid in it.
Cap the return line fitting on the back of the pump
Route the return line from the box into a bucket

Front wheels off of ground, truck running, turn wheel lock to lock, wait until pretty red fluid comes out.

Havent tried this, but seems like it should work. Just dont let the pump run dry.
 
GotLabs said:
Use a long spout funnel in the resevoir to pour fluid in it.
Cap the return line fitting on the back of the pump
Route the return line from the box into a bucket

Front wheels off of ground, truck running, turn wheel lock to lock, wait until pretty red fluid comes out.

Havent tried this, but seems like it should work. Just dont let the pump run dry.
Click to expand...
can anyone else proves this will work? I just dont want to screw anything up...

Also, how or what would I use to cap the return line??
 
As to flushing it, I think that GotLabs has the right idea. I also run an in line filter (autozone) which is a good idea. Finally, a little trick that I picked up from the car guys - every time I change the oil, I take a baster and suck out whatever fluid is in the reservoir. I the re-fill it with fresh fluid.
 
cbbr said:
As to flushing it, I think that GotLabs has the right idea. I also run an in line filter (autozone) which is a good idea. Finally, a little trick that I picked up from the car guys - every time I change the oil, I take a baster and suck out whatever fluid is in the reservoir. I the re-fill it with fresh fluid.
Click to expand...
Ok, i`ll see what others say, but i think I may go with GotLabs idea..

cbbr(chad?), as for the inline filter, how much does it go for? got a part #?
 
It's about $20 and the part number is 2210, but they can look it up by looking for your truck model and looking at the steering box on the computer. They will swear that they have never heard of it, but I have bought 2 from them.
 
cbbr said:
It's about $20 and the part number is 2210, but they can look it up by looking for your truck model and looking at the steering box on the computer. They will swear that they have never heard of it, but I have bought 2 from them.
Click to expand...
yea, that sounds like autozone:D

Alright, hopefully I can get a hand doing this today...What should I use to cap the return line on the pump?
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
...What should I use to cap the return line on the pump?
Click to expand...

Short piece of hose (correct size) a bolt that will plug the hose, and a clamp.
 
this works, but it will pump the fluid through extremly quick, the last time i did it, i just disabled the coil so it cranks and won't start, then have someone crank while you pour in fluid. and when you buy the p/s hose, it will usually come with a little yellow cap, this is what it is for.
 
Going to do this today if I can

Swapping a 6.2 diesel hydraboost Steering Box in place of my damaged one in my 350 K5. I'm not sure that the fluid is the same in the diesels so I was thinking I would flush and put new fluid since I have never done this to the truck anyway.

Any tips?

Still working on bolting the steering box onto the frame. There are a couple small cracks on the frame and it looks like one bolt hole has widened a little bit (not sure). I'm not going to weld on a brace yet because I need the truck on the road now. I may order a bolt on brace though.
 
boltholes.jpg


The top left hole has a small crack and the bolt hole appears a little widened, other than that doesn't look too bad.

Tried to outline the crack in red. the U shape thing was just for the diameter of the hole (ignore it)
 
DK5 said:
Steering box is bolted in.

How do I bolt the pitman arm back to the drag link? The bolt on the draglink end just keeps spinning and I can't thread the nut back on.. :dunno: slowing me down
Click to expand...

You're talking about the castle nut, right?

You gotta snug the draglink end up against the arm, so that the stud (which IIRC is slightly tapered) has friction against the inside surface. This is one of those cases where one fastener can drive you nuts for half an hour trying to find the right combination of tools, duct tape, torch, pry bar, and swearing, just to tighten/loosen.

-- A
 
Yes! the nut that looks like a castle!

Well I can only thread it on so far and the bolt keeps on spinning. I was thinking that the end of the bolt (in the drag link end) came dislodged or something..

so there is no way of locking the stud so it doesn't spin anymore?

I am not a mechanic but I've managed pretty good until now. I'll keep messing with it to see if I can figure something out.

Please if you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!! :waytogo:
 
DK5 said:
Yes! the nut that looks like a castle!

Well I can only thread it on so far and the bolt keeps on spinning. I was thinking that the end of the bolt (in the drag link end) came dislodged or something..

so there is no way of locking the stud so it doesn't spin anymore?

I am not a mechanic but I've managed pretty good until now. I'll keep messing with it to see if I can figure something out.

Please if you have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!! :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Isn't that what the cotter pin is for? Or is it spinning when you try and tighten it down? I think you need the wheels on the ground to tighten it properly, but I could be wrong.
 
Used to bleed the power steering all the time in HMMWVs. I don't cap anything, just pour the return line into a bucket, have a buddy help you pour in fresh fluid if the engine is running, because it is kinda quick. Bleed the air out as necessary when you're done.

If it keeps spinning, you have a few choices. Get a new one, it won't spin. Or find a way to 'press' it in a bit so the taper of the bolt/joint has enough friction not to spin, like a clap or something, or attempt to use an impact. Impact works half the time, it spins it fast enough to snug it down where as the friction holds it the rest of the way. Otherwise you do have to press it in somehow so the taper holds it from spinning.

Wheels on the ground might help. I've had them spin both on and off. There's enough play where the suspension from the leaf springs>axle>hub>tie rod>drag link won't allow it to press down enough to hold. Which is why I say a c-clamp or something. Piece of angle iron or something so your clamp isn't cock-eyed trying to tighten. Perhaps two c-clamps, angle iron, clamp the angle iron above the pitman arm, and c-clamp it down on each side of the 'bolt' to the drag link.. whatever works.

Btw gloss black looks hella secksy on K5s, I feel the way about that like a lot do about flat black. Especially if the topper is sanded down and the same.
 
What I did was just put a floor jack under the drag link end and a block of wood and jacked the drag link up until it was nice and snug against the pitman arm. The stud stopped spinning! So the Castellated nut (aka Castle nut) is now threaded onto the draglink stud and torqued to 89 Ft. Lbs. as per 1991 service manual :whistle::thumb:
 
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