No metal in the oil pan. It’s a 4bm but it’s also an 010 casting number. Won’t know if its a 400 crank until I flip it over tomorrow. Calling it a night.
CK5
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FNG here.....Wasn't sure where to make the first post.
- Thread starter K5Devil
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- driveshaft jimmy k5 new rattle washington
I picked this up from a guy in oak harbor about a month ago.
Quite a few gear heads around
Last shots of the night.
Will be taking the block into the machine shop tomorrow. I inspected the cylinder closer and it’s not a hole and also not as deep as I thought it was. Might be able to get away with punching it to 060 it is a 010 block though so probably wouldn’t last long with that.
Rod ends being clearanced makes me think it really is a true 383
Will be taking the block into the machine shop tomorrow. I inspected the cylinder closer and it’s not a hole and also not as deep as I thought it was. Might be able to get away with punching it to 060 it is a 010 block though so probably wouldn’t last long with that.
Rod ends being clearanced makes me think it really is a true 383
The flexplate should have balance weights on it, along with a harmonic balancer that has notches cut out for balancing, correct?
Has any company made a crankshaft that's internally balanced to build a 383?
Yeah there are. My Scat stroker crank is internally balanced.
Easiest way since the heads are off is to just measure the stroke.
Lots of one piece 350s are external also
Hard to read but it’s stroke is exactly 3.75
Just saw this, bummer on the news, but fix it up right so it won't happen again. I had a 388 for 20 years and I took it out still going strong, and I wasn't easy on it. (and it is a 010/020 high nickel/tin 4 bolt block)
The 3.75" stroke is a 383/400 stroke. The rod ends are just ground for the casting flash/balance. If it is a 383 it will likely be clearanced in the block where the rod bolt nut passes right next to the block, and some of the bolt heads might be clearanced to clear the cam.
The 3.75" stroke is a 383/400 stroke. The rod ends are just ground for the casting flash/balance. If it is a 383 it will likely be clearanced in the block where the rod bolt nut passes right next to the block, and some of the bolt heads might be clearanced to clear the cam.
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Dropping it off at the machine shop. With closer inspection of the cylinder we believe it is save able. Going to be a few weeks out but my cousin is the best at what he does.
Now it’s time to convert my power windows to manual. Put on my new door panels. Paint the rear area of the truck or bed coat it. Get all the bushings and rubber parts hoses etc., I can easily reach replaced. Going to be a few weeks out but totally worth it to know it was done right and I’ll know exactly what I have under the hood.
I can get the under hood wiring done up even nicer now.
Pondering what color I should paint the block.....
Thinking that Chevy orange will pop good with the gun metal exterior.
Pondering what color I should paint the block.....
Thinking that Chevy orange will pop good with the gun metal exterior.
I like flat black, it shows oil stains less than the orange it appears your old block was already painted. Just more to ponder...
Yeah that’s a good point. I’m a sucker for that classic Chevy orange though. I keep my stuff clean for the most part. All my wheeling buddies hate that I keep good care of my toys
Picked these up the other week. 
So much better. I absolutely hate power windows. I left the harness and loose wires clipped and shrinked Incase I ever change my mind or if it’s ever sold and someone else wants to do it.
Yeah why not. Just wanted some primer and paint over that bare metal. Just a rattle can special.
