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FNG here.....Wasn't sure where to make the first post.

Motor will be done by the end of next week.

To say I’m anxious is an understatement. I can not wait to get back behind the wheel of my Jimmy.

Brand new 383 Stroker getting plopped back in.

Decided to hold off on painting the bed area since it’s too cold here for the paint to set right. Will be doing that next summer.

Can’t friggin wait. Just hope I can find the time to install the motor in the weeks coming.

Anyone happen to know the bolt sizes for the 700r4 fly wheel cover?
 
K5Devil said:
Motor will be done by the end of next week.

To say I’m anxious is an understatement. I can not wait to get back behind the wheel of my Jimmy.

Brand new 383 Stroker getting plopped back in.

Decided to hold off on painting the bed area since it’s too cold here for the paint to set right. Will be doing that next summer.

Can’t friggin wait. Just hope I can find the time to install the motor in the weeks coming.

Anyone happen to know the bolt sizes for the 700r4 fly wheel cover?
Click to expand...
I will be putting those on tomorrow so if you get no response by then I will let you know
 
Alright. So I was planning on putting the braces in that attach to the 700r4 cover. I originally did not have these braces.

How exactly are they orientated? I don’t believe they fit my current motor mount set up.
 
engine block

brace rod plate lower rod ear tab kicked out away from block to rear

motor mount clamb shell or aftermarket

correct length bolts to sandwich to block

install .
 
Oh so these go in between the block not the motor mounts to frame. That makes a lot more sense. I pulled my motor mounts off thinking they went between motor mount and frame.
 
Oh my gosh. I hope this week is the week I get the motor back. Got a bunch of goodies coming in the mail and got all the things painted I wanted painted. Not sure what to do now but wait. It’s really hard for me to do.

Thinking of getting the seats redone in black leather-like material.

I can’t keep myself from tinkering. I damn near pulled out the interior to replace the rubber mat but decided to wait until summer for that so I can get the floor coated at the same time. Might just pressure wash the mat and see if it cleans up.

Had to walk away before I pulled the whole gauge cluster out and bought an aftermarket set up with auto meters. That is definitely coming in the future.

Put in 140 hours of work for my next pay check. Plan to do the same through the holidays. January I get a big bonus and possibly another bonus in February.

Looking at getting some new tires and having poly body mounts put in to replace the old ones. Not really a job I want to do myself especially in winter time in a cold shop.

Needing leaf spring bushings in the rear. It looks like it had ORD greasable ones put in but they are pretty worn out.

The list goes on. Thinking about that Holley EFI sniper kit too......
 
Ordered a carb spacer off amazon. Wasn’t expecting much but quality on parts these days has gone out the window. Had to spend the last two hours truing this dam thing. Also debur everything. Sharp edges finally got it as flat as it can be and nice round ports.

This thing had 5 star reviews lol definitely worth the money as it would have cost more for me to build it myself but man I can’t believe that people throw this on without knocking the burs and chamfering the bores.

F9B85304-5476-4619-8C0B-361F3CF8934C.jpeg 538F9EF6-B7E0-40BA-9CEC-CE31B59D584A.jpeg
 
K5Devil said:
Ordered a carb spacer off amazon. Wasn’t expecting much but quality on parts these days has gone out the window. Had to spend the last two hours truing this dam thing. Also debur everything. Sharp edges finally got it as flat as it can be and nice round ports.

This thing had 5 star reviews lol definitely worth the money as it would have cost more for me to build it myself but man I can’t believe that people throw this on without knocking the burs and chamfering the bores.

View attachment 320388 View attachment 320389
Click to expand...
Bought one of those bastardized turds to reverse and put a Qjet on a squarebore intake

convinced that was part of my issues when I had the above mentioned Sniper on my engine was an intake leak. Never did get it sorted out. Ended up going to the Edelbrock instead
 
Bent77 said:
Bought one of those bastardized turds to reverse and put a Qjet on a squarebore intake

convinced that was part of my issues when I had the above mentioned Sniper on my engine was an intake leak. Never did get it sorted out. Ended up going to the Edelbrock instead
Click to expand...

This thing was all caddy wampus. Like I could rock it back and forth on a flat table. Got it close enough now.
 
Where the (v) is on the gasket area there was a protruding v as a directional indicator on the center puck. About .015 tall..... sanded it down flat.

I checked and measured the bores and made certain it would line up accordingly. I am not worried about it leaking now.

There was also casting scores on the bottom causing unlevelness. I can only imagine how many poor souls bought this and couldn’t figure out what was wrong after installing with manufacturing like this.
 
K5Devil said:
Where the (v) is on the gasket area there was a protruding v as a directional indicator on the center puck. About .015 tall..... sanded it down flat.

I checked and measured the bores and made certain it would line up accordingly. I am not worried about it leaking now.

There was also casting scores on the bottom causing unlevelness. I can only imagine how many poor souls bought this and couldn’t figure out what was wrong after installing with manufacturing like this.
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Yeah it took a few laps on the work bench with some 100 grit

the intake issue was not related to the turd plate
I had issues

when you get bored, read my build thread.
 
Welp, got off the phone with my cousin last night.

He says that cylinder didn’t hone out all the way. He wants me to be aware of the situation and that it could possibly have some “blow by” in that cylinder.

Doesn’t appear to be cracked but there is some damage to the wall that won’t hone out.

So, now I’m stuck with either going 060 over, getting new pistons and having it balanced or just running it how it is and hope for the best.

He says with iron rings it might not be even noticeable. I just want it done right. I keep getting the feeling he thinks I’m hard up for money or something which is really weird.

I just want the motor done right whatever it costs that way there isn’t future problems down the road. Might just actually be this Motor won’t last and I’ll be on the look out for something else. Maybe LS swap time?

The odd thing is that he said cylinder 6 has this issue but I don’t remember seeing any damage on that cylinder. Cylinder 8 had what appeared to be the most damage but that must have honed out. He said the wall is rough to the touch on 6. Hmm
 
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Might have had other issues to start

.040 not an option?
 
Bent77 said:
Might have had other issues to start

.040 not an option?
Click to expand...

I’ll see on Monday. I think he’s worried about the cost of new pistons and balancing. I told him from the very start I have the cash. I’ve even offered to pay him on the way but he said to just wait until the end. I’ll go to the machine shop on Monday and see how bad it is. I really don’t mind getting new pistons and a balance since I’m already this far into it. Seems like the best option. I guess I could go .040 over but won’t know really how deep I have to go until it gets done. I just figured bring it to the max and if it’s still too deep I’ll get another block.
 
I have a couple. Just have to make the time to go to my grandmas barn and pull them out and apart.
 
The other option you listed was a LS

When I researched it, it wasn't as "inexpensive" as everyone stated. They also have a different power ban, and it's still a used engine.
Do your homework wisely
 
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