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? for those with clocked flat t-cases

hidesertwheelin

hidesertwheelin

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What other options do I have for my front driveshaft besides a $500 driveshaft (yes, I am a cheap ass). I have my front axle moved forward 1" with zero rates, and the t-case is lowered 1" until I spring for some new body mounts and maybe a 1" body lift (the being a cheap ass is striking me again), with 4" lift springs. If I grind out the stops on my cv joint, will it still hit? I saw a tread on pirate about using an off-set u-joint, anyone tried this? I was also thinking of putting a yoke from a furd BW 1356 (I think) onto my np241, and then running a cv joint driveshaft. I would get an extra inch+ by running a yoke and not a flange. Ideas?
 
Using a 1310 or 1410 joint without the CV will have plenty of angle for you.

Somebody makes a u-joint that is offset to allow more angle but they're expensive and if you're CV is binding it won't matter anyway.

How long is this driveshaft?
 
38377k5 said:
Using a 1310 or 1410 joint without the CV will have plenty of angle for you.

Somebody makes a u-joint that is offset to allow more angle but they're expensive and if you're CV is binding it won't matter anyway.

How long is this driveshaft?
Click to expand...


I am going to either sleeve my current driveshaft or have a new one made. I just don't want to spend the money on one and have it bind. I think Tom Woods makes those u-joints, just looking to see if anyone has any experience with them. I have heard that you can't go faster then 15 mph in 4x with them (not that I would be going that fast anyways).
 
I broke a $500 HAD 1350 CV with my Atlas clocked flat. The front shaft was as such a steep angle it caused the CV to bind. The issue with the Atlas it makes the front shaft several inches shorter than the stock transfercase.

After running the offset u-joint and having hellasious harmonic vabration, I ended up installing a DD Machine 241 doubler. This added back more inches of shaft length than I lost with the Atlas. With this setup, I am able to run a regular 1350 joint with no vibration from the shaft. And the total install was less $ than the $500 shaft...
 
Same idea as a 203/205 doubler except they use a 241 as the range box instead of the 203. The 241 has a lower 2.72 gear in it. Problem is it is made by only one company and he doesn't like to make the 241 version. He sells 231 versions to 20 jeepers for ever 241 version he sells to other people so he doesn't produce many if any anymore.

Harley
 
Northwest Fab was doing the "Black Box" which is uses 241 internals...

i have the 203/205 behind an NV4500, and I run a 1410/1410 shaft with 20" of slip. I haven't had any problems with that set-up, and my cases are clocked flat. I have more trouble with my rear shaft vibing than anything else. I have the companion flange and CV head for the rear, just haven't installed it yet.

Not exactly the low budget solution though. :crazy:

Rene
 
241 rockbox kit: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456669

Rene, the black box is nice but the reason the 241 rockbox is cool is because it is way cheaper then the black box or the klune v. Both have stronger cases but I believe the are both based off the 241 guts. The 241 rockbox kit is actually cheaper, lighter, & deeper geared then a standard 203 doubler which makes it very appealing. I am just praying when I start my buggy that dude will build be a kit or that my buddy who is a machinist will have finished his 208 rockbox kit he is working on.

Harley
 
Why not run the 231 rockbox? From what I understand, you can swap in the 241 internals for added strength. Plus the 231 would have more clearance.

One downside I can see to the 241dblr versus the standard 203/205, is that I don't believe you could run front wheel drive only with the 241 Rockbox. So no digs, which I've seen some doubler equipped guys do quite a bit - more than I would have thought. Although I think I have "heard" of twin sticking a 241, but IIRC it's a huge pain in the arse to do.
 
hidesertwheelin said:
What other options do I have for my front driveshaft besides a $500 driveshaft (yes, I am a cheap ass). I have my front axle moved forward 1" with zero rates, and the t-case is lowered 1" until I spring for some new body mounts and maybe a 1" body lift (the being a cheap ass is striking me again), with 4" lift springs. If I grind out the stops on my cv joint, will it still hit? I saw a tread on pirate about using an off-set u-joint, anyone tried this? I was also thinking of putting a yoke from a furd BW 1356 (I think) onto my np241, and then running a cv joint driveshaft. I would get an extra inch+ by running a yoke and not a flange. Ideas?
Click to expand...
I got my clocking ring from DIY4x and it has a "half-clocked" type position. This is what I did which clocked mine up 2" vs. 4". I also have the tall adapter so this put the front output just above the feet of the adapter.

I installed 52" front springs this past winter which moved the axle forward roughly 2.5".

Now I have a non-CV shaft running 1310 at the axle and S44 at the tcase. Seems to work pretty good up to 40mph at least. The only thing I notice is some noise when I back off the gas, similar to the noise from the rear shaft when you have bad angles. My plan is to run a 1410/1410 straight shaft like René. I've seen some prices around $275 with 9" slip travel.
 
mrk5 said:
Why not run the 231 rockbox? From what I understand, you can swap in the 241 internals for added strength. Plus the 231 would have more clearance.

One downside I can see to the 241dblr versus the standard 203/205, is that I don't believe you could run front wheel drive only with the 241 Rockbox. So no digs, which I've seen some doubler equipped guys do quite a bit - more than I would have thought. Although I think I have "heard" of twin sticking a 241, but IIRC it's a huge pain in the arse to do.
Click to expand...

It doesn't have to be a 241/241 doubler. It can be a 241/205 doubler or a 241/D300 doubler and probably a few other things too. I personally am not a fan of the idea of a 241/241 or 241/208 doubler. To much input stress on the rear case IMO. It might work on a light rig but a heavy rig is going to be questionable.

My current plan for the buggy I am going to build will be a 241/205 doubler with the 205 being twin sticked for front dig capability.

Harley
 
The nice part about the 241/205 doubler is that you get a 5.33 lowrange instead of the 4:1 of the 203/205. It is also cheaper and lighter then the 203/205 doubler and will bolt up to any trans that a 241 bolts too.:D

If you wanted REALLY low you could do the 241/205 with the 3:1 205 from Lomax and have 8.16:1 lowrange. :bow:

Harley
 
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