Also crazy to think when the C10 was built that tractor was already over 30 years old.
CK5
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Ford 9n tractor
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Doing some research on the charging system. It doesn't use a voltage regulator, but a "cut-off" instead. Need to look into how that works.
Also discovered the tractor isn't wired right. The terminal stud that acts like a junction block is missing as indicated with a arrow below. They used the starter switch as a junction instead, circled below.
I'm wondering if this contributes to the lack of charging. At the very least, the ammeter isn't setup correctly.
Also discovered the tractor isn't wired right. The terminal stud that acts like a junction block is missing as indicated with a arrow below. They used the starter switch as a junction instead, circled below.
I'm wondering if this contributes to the lack of charging. At the very least, the ammeter isn't setup correctly.
The cutout relay works like an auto reset circuit breaker. They freeze up regularly. I went to and internally regulated alternator and 12v. I was not doing a restoration, was using it to maintain the property. Dependability and ease of repair was important.
I'm at that point where I need to decide if I'm sticking with 6v or going 12v. Since it looks like quite a bit of wiring needs done, I should just go 12v.
Yes. Just go 12v. I ran the original starter, it just spun faster.
Until it fries then you get a 12volt starter
You better just go buy this so you can start a tractor collection. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/928672275084185/
A generator is basically an electric motor. If you put power on it, it will spin. If the engine spins it faster than it spins on it's own, it will charge. The "cutout" coil is there to connect the gen to the battery when charging, and to disconnect it from the battery when the engine is off. They make diode cutouts, that don't have any moving parts. The charge voltage should be "about" 7 volts. Since you don't have a regulator, the voltage will depend on how charged your battery already is, and how long it has been running. Your gen is probably a "3 brush" generator. The 3rd brush will be adjustable to set the current output, not voltage. If you set it too low, the battery will run down. If you set it too high, the battery will boil. The generator requires internal magnetism to begin charging. This requires you to "polarize" the gen if it has sat for awhile. With the engine off, jump the 2 terminals on the cutout coil together. Use a 10-12 gauge wire. Hold the wire onto the terminals for a couple of seconds. This will put the magnetism back into the armature. If you want to change it over to neg. ground, you would do this same thing, to put the "polarity" to neg ground.
If you want to change it over to neg. ground, just switch the battery cables, swap the 2 wires on the amp gauge, swap the wires on the coil, and polarize the generator, and you are done. No benefit of doing it, other than ease of not messing up when diagnosing things.
Get an 8v battery for it. Not going to burn out any of the 6v circuits.
6v alternators are available. Work way better than a generator. My boss put one on his 6v flathead 49 F1, with an 8 volt battery. Starts every time, now the wife will go with him when he takes it out. Maybe @500$k5 can set you up.
6v alternators are available. Work way better than a generator. My boss put one on his 6v flathead 49 F1, with an 8 volt battery. Starts every time, now the wife will go with him when he takes it out. Maybe @500$k5 can set you up.
I'd be worried about the added voltage messing up the points.
I was reading about that polarizing deal. I'm betting mine needs polarized.
I've changed several vehicles over to 8v. No known problems. The do make 8v regulators for gm one wire alts.
I'm going to try polarizing the generator and see if that helps. I'm sure having the 12v battery in there wouldn't have helped the situation.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
You polarize that generator make sure you don't go over 1.21 jigowatts.
Okay, I won't use the flux capacitor to do it.
Just in case. Out of stock. But you could get on the list. HaHa.
Messed around with the tractor yesterday. I was planning to see about getting the 3 point working but the 9n had other plans. It started right up after sitting a couple months. Parked it to open up a spot in the shop and had a big puddle of gas under the tractor.
Took me a bit to figure out exactly where the leak was coming from. I had to make a new gasket for the sediment bowl. Luckily I keep a roll of the cork gasket material they recommend for the gasket. I didn't get pictures, but it was full of nasty so it was good to clean it up anyway. Here's an example picture of the sediment bowl.
I picked up a new battery door and grill a while back. Repop parts for these tractors can be found pretty cheap. I painted them in the correct 9n gray and you can see the difference between correct gray and newer Ford gray.
The hinge for the battery door was riveted on so I had to grind the heads off. The door itself had ripped off the hinge at some point and was just held on with a single half-assed bolt.
The replacement grille didn't have a hole for the front pump. I just slotted the bottom. I didn't realize the center bar wasn't welded to the clips holding the bars on either side so it fell out after my cutting.
It's not pretty, but I like it better than nothing there at all.
Took me a bit to figure out exactly where the leak was coming from. I had to make a new gasket for the sediment bowl. Luckily I keep a roll of the cork gasket material they recommend for the gasket. I didn't get pictures, but it was full of nasty so it was good to clean it up anyway. Here's an example picture of the sediment bowl.
I picked up a new battery door and grill a while back. Repop parts for these tractors can be found pretty cheap. I painted them in the correct 9n gray and you can see the difference between correct gray and newer Ford gray.
The hinge for the battery door was riveted on so I had to grind the heads off. The door itself had ripped off the hinge at some point and was just held on with a single half-assed bolt.
The replacement grille didn't have a hole for the front pump. I just slotted the bottom. I didn't realize the center bar wasn't welded to the clips holding the bars on either side so it fell out after my cutting.
It's not pretty, but I like it better than nothing there at all.
Sometimes ignorance is bliss.
