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Frame Boxing kit : Suburban interest??

going to start saving my pennies now!
you won't be sorry, its a good kit, and takes a little massaging, but the metal forms easily into place. I used a tack and a c clamp method. get it where you want it, then tack it at one end, then work your way to the other end with a series of tacks and pulling it into position with a large c clamp, and hit it with another tack.
 
you won't be sorry, its a good kit, and takes a little massaging, but the metal forms easily into place. I used a tack and a c clamp method. get it where you want it, then tack it at one end, then work your way to the other end with a series of tacks and pulling it into position with a large c clamp, and hit it with another tack.

That's the best way to do it. Some places you may end up with a tack on either side of spot where it isn't touching the frame. A few taps with a hammer and it'll lay down nicely.

The frames definitely have some odd spots to them.

The difference from a boxed frame rig to unboxed can be quite amazing. I remember wheeling in the rig before things were boxed. Creaking, cracking and all manner of angry noises coming from the frame, cab and all things mounted between the two. After the boxing, a very solid, firm responsiveness. Hard to describe really. Just a feeling of an actual structure underneath you that isn't twisting every which way.

If you plan on adding a cage, the combination of the two is the extreme of making the chassis rigid.
 
Actually, on the blazer, I went one further. Mind you, this is a dedicated trail rig so you have to factor that in.

Frame is boxed, cage is hard mounted to the frame. The body has no isolators between it and the frame. Engine, trans and tcase are all hard mounted to the frame. Engine also has a midplate to facilitate the mounting.
 
Once funds are available I'm buying this for my truck but my dad had an interesting idea. He was thinking of using the boxing kit but putting it flush on the inside of the "C", basically push it against the inside part of the factory rail. Then reattach all crossmembers with bolts and plug weld all unneeded hole. I think it would stiffen the frame a lot but still allow the benefits of a C style rail with running fueling line and such.

What are you thoughts on using it like that?
 
Once funds are available I'm buying this for my truck but my dad had an interesting idea. He was thinking of using the boxing kit but putting it flush on the inside of the "C", basically push it against the inside part of the factory rail. Then reattach all crossmembers with bolts and plug weld all unneeded hole. I think it would stiffen the frame a lot but still allow the benefits of a C style rail with running fueling line and such.

What are you thoughts on using it like that?
 
Won't have near the stiffening effect.

Basically you're talking about making the vertical wall twice the thickness. While yes it would make the frame stronger but not in the same way.

Think of it this way, the vertical side of the C channel is meant to resist vertical forces. If it were just that wall, it wouldn't bend very easily up and down but side to side it'd fold very easily. So, take that vertical wall and put legs on it and make it a "C" shape. Those two legs resist side to side forces and help with the vertical loading to a small degree. Now we have a structural piece of steel. Only one thing remains, that's twisting which is what boxing the frame helps control, and at the same time adds strength to resist both the vertical and side to side loads. Each time you add another Leg or wall, all the others are supported that much more.

Pictue the "C" channel bending on the vertical. The upper and lower legs will kink especially at the unsupported edge. If that edge were supported by a new leg, the strength is greatly increased.

Hopefully I described that well enough.
 
Very good description. Was an idea and it doesn't hurt to ask. It does make sense though that putting it to the inside would make it stronger on a vertical plane but not in a torsional/side loading plane. Were boxing it will help in all three ways.

I'll certainly use it to box it in. Especially since I'm now seriously considering a cummins swap. Engine issues,again :rolleyes:. The frame will need all the help it can get.

Thanks Kurt.
 
Very good description. Was an idea and it doesn't hurt to ask. It does make sense though that putting it to the inside would make it stronger on a vertical plane but not in a torsional/side loading plane. Were boxing it will help in all three ways.

I'll certainly use it to box it in. Especially since I'm now seriously considering a cummins swap. Engine issues,again :rolleyes:. The frame will need all the help it can get.

Thanks Kurt.


No problem. Glad I could be of assistance.
 
I so wish I had boxed the frame on my crew cab after making my fork lift trip yesterday.

Leaving a stop sign in traffic I like to use the low gear to get things moving a little easier.

The front left corner of the truck appears to lift a good 4" when you load it up. It's all chassis twist from what I can see. Induced by the engine torque against the weight of the load. Boxing alone would probably not fix all of that but it sure would help put the power to the wheels rather than the chassis robbing some power.
 

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