I'd go big block unless you plan on towing ALOT and have the budget for a Cummins conversion done the right way. All the money you save will pay for a lot of gas and you can get your project going sooner.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Frankenburb the 1978? 1984? Suburban
- Thread starter AbramJ
- Start date
454 will be a ton less fabrication for sure.
You can take pics of things with your phone while taking apart - for notes on putting them back together.
Are your drip rails shaved off?
You can take pics of things with your phone while taking apart - for notes on putting them back together.
Are your drip rails shaved off?
That was another factor leading me towards going with a 454, "ease" of installation vs the Cummins.
Mine were screwed on. I just took them off to strip the paint. I'll scrape the old adhesive off of them and put new on so they seal to the body when I reattach them.
I've got a set of these (some where) that I plan on putting on too. Just got to figure out how they attach.
Mine were screwed on. I just took them off to strip the paint. I'll scrape the old adhesive off of them and put new on so they seal to the body when I reattach them.
I've got a set of these (some where) that I plan on putting on too. Just got to figure out how they attach.
Haven't gotten much done on the 'Burb this week. Work has kept me pretty busy (and the hot weather has been restrictive). I also discovered I've used up all my stripping discs so I'll need to order more. Since I couldn't do much I took one of the steel wheels I painted and put it on the rear axle and threw some hubcaps on.
I also bought this to aid in hubcap mounting and removal
It'll look even better when I get new tires. I stopped by a junkyard the other day to look for parts for my mother in law's car and found a truck chassis with steel wheels so I grabbed the wheels. I now have a full set of 3/4 ton 16.5" wheels (plus two spares) and a full set of 3/4 ton 16" wheels (plus one spare).
The 'Burb has a semi float rear axle which I've read is OK, but not as good as the full float. I'm going to check a couple junkyards to see if I can find one (especially since the ones that say they've got 3/4 ton '80s trucks are doing 50% off everything right now [it's ~$80 an axle]). Maybe I'll get lucky and find a set. If that happens my plans for my '76 2wd Suburban may change. (Although I do have a 10 bolt front axle I got from @JoshHefnerX, I thought I read you could put 3/4 ton gear on those?)
I'm pretty sure I know how to tell the difference between the two different 14 bolt axles. How do you tell the difference between the different front axles? Anybody happen to know which socket sizes are used to remove the axles? If it's the same regardless of the axle type I'll go check on my truck, but I figured I'd check so I knew I'd have the right ones at the yard. Anything special needed to remove the drive shaft? Anything else I'll need to remove an axle? I have no idea what level of disassembly trucks in the yard will be in so I want to be as prepared as possible. Since my truck has no brakes and the drive shafts were already disconnected I can't easily look at it as a reference.
I also bought this to aid in hubcap mounting and removal
It'll look even better when I get new tires. I stopped by a junkyard the other day to look for parts for my mother in law's car and found a truck chassis with steel wheels so I grabbed the wheels. I now have a full set of 3/4 ton 16.5" wheels (plus two spares) and a full set of 3/4 ton 16" wheels (plus one spare).
The 'Burb has a semi float rear axle which I've read is OK, but not as good as the full float. I'm going to check a couple junkyards to see if I can find one (especially since the ones that say they've got 3/4 ton '80s trucks are doing 50% off everything right now [it's ~$80 an axle]). Maybe I'll get lucky and find a set. If that happens my plans for my '76 2wd Suburban may change. (Although I do have a 10 bolt front axle I got from @JoshHefnerX, I thought I read you could put 3/4 ton gear on those?)
I'm pretty sure I know how to tell the difference between the two different 14 bolt axles. How do you tell the difference between the different front axles? Anybody happen to know which socket sizes are used to remove the axles? If it's the same regardless of the axle type I'll go check on my truck, but I figured I'd check so I knew I'd have the right ones at the yard. Anything special needed to remove the drive shaft? Anything else I'll need to remove an axle? I have no idea what level of disassembly trucks in the yard will be in so I want to be as prepared as possible. Since my truck has no brakes and the drive shafts were already disconnected I can't easily look at it as a reference.
Last edited:
Here's the axle guide. Note the 10b has tits in the bottom
https://ck5.com/forums/resources/axle-identification-chart.10/
As for the spindle bearing tool, it's the same size for both. Axle shafts are not interchangeable
https://ck5.com/forums/resources/axle-identification-chart.10/
As for the spindle bearing tool, it's the same size for both. Axle shafts are not interchangeable
Thanks for the link, guess I should have searched the reference section here; looks like it might have a lot of the answers I need.
Went on a recon mission to a junkyard today. Found a truck ('79 pickup) with a full float axle. I'll be headed back Thursday to pull it and buy it. Same truck had a hood, but I didn't get it today, still unsure if it's worth it. It already had the brace kit, but the passenger side had a crack in the crumple zone in the middle right under the brace. The whole hood felt rather flimsy too. Did they change it when they put that extra bump on the very front? Other than that it looked to be in decent enough shape.
Surprisingly that truck still had the gauge cluster so I grabbed that today. It had a brand new speedometer in it with only 1146 miles on the odometer. I've put it in my cluster for now to keep it safe. My cluster is pretty much done gauge wise except for the tachometer/fuel gauge combo. I'll need to buy a new shift/gear indicator, printed circuit, and LED lights. I'll also need to make sure to test the clock before I put everything together. I'm unsure if either of the ones I have works.
Anyone else like to collect gauges? I don't know why, but I do. I'll buy them off eBay if I see one cheap.
I modified some of the gels I had to give me the warning lights I wanted since I'll lose the ones in the fuel gauge by going with the tach/fuel combo gauge.
Surprisingly that truck still had the gauge cluster so I grabbed that today. It had a brand new speedometer in it with only 1146 miles on the odometer. I've put it in my cluster for now to keep it safe. My cluster is pretty much done gauge wise except for the tachometer/fuel gauge combo. I'll need to buy a new shift/gear indicator, printed circuit, and LED lights. I'll also need to make sure to test the clock before I put everything together. I'm unsure if either of the ones I have works.
Anyone else like to collect gauges? I don't know why, but I do. I'll buy them off eBay if I see one cheap.
I modified some of the gels I had to give me the warning lights I wanted since I'll lose the ones in the fuel gauge by going with the tach/fuel combo gauge.
So I'm curious of opinions. I found the speedometer mentioned and pictured in the previous post and while it matches all of other gauges better it doesn't match the tach I want to get.
Here's a picture of the tach
See above for the current speedo. This speedometer (pictured below) seems to match better
Should I spend the money on the different speedo, or just not worry about it?
Here's a picture of the tach
See above for the current speedo. This speedometer (pictured below) seems to match better
Should I spend the money on the different speedo, or just not worry about it?
I don't remember when the gauges went to 85, but I'm sure it's later than the above one. And you're right it does look 'matched' w/ the font/color. But only you can say if it's gonna bug you ADD-wise. If you do decide to change it up, let me know. I believe I may need a new speedo...
Went back to the junkyard today. Wasn't able to get the axle off even after using PB Blaster the other day and today. I was able to get the ubolt nuts started, but they started to bind. I'll need to search the yard for a jack (since you're not allowed to bring one in...). The shock nuts were stuck and I only had my 1/2” breaker bar, I'll need to take my 3/8" next time for the shocks. (Or find a cordless impact driver...)
I did pick up that hood. I figured at $30 I might as well. I also grabbed a few other things. I'll need to strip the paint off the hook, but what do you guys think? Like I mentioned before, the primer the PO applied is really thick.
I did pick up that hood. I figured at $30 I might as well. I also grabbed a few other things. I'll need to strip the paint off the hook, but what do you guys think? Like I mentioned before, the primer the PO applied is really thick.
it is a 79-80 hood may only be a 80 hood the design on the front was a one or two year only run.
Yep, the truck I took it from is a '79. I know all the new aftermarket hoods look like this, but I'm pretty sure it's an original hood (original looking paint under the primer). Once the bug and stone deflector is on the hood you won't see the extra bump. Anyone know why GM added that in '79?
It matched the lines of the chrome around the head lights.
reinforce that edge because it's gonna buckle again otherwise. And, close it from the side and not the front.
Reinforcing it is a good idea. I'll probably buy a new brace kit too as the one on that side is unscrewed and bent.
Not sure I understand closing it from the side not the front.
Just push towards the cab as you close the hood. If you only pull down, it causes problems.
Ohhhhh 
I thought Josh meant when fixing it, ha. Makes more sense now.
I thought Josh meant when fixing it, ha. Makes more sense now.
I grab my hood on the side and pull it down. Less stress on the hood.... And I can reach it better, lol. I wasn't optioned w/ a lift kit from my parents.
Keep your hood hinges well lubed. It will help the most!
