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From 700r4 to nv4500 Questions.

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nicks00si

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Hey guys, new to the forum and am hoping to get some opinions on this topic. I've got a 69 Blazer and it currently has a 350 with a 700r4 behind it and 208 transfer case. I'm wanting to convert it back to a manual, but use an nv4500 or nv5600 transmission. I've been leaning more towards the nv4500 due to the cost, I'm on a college budget and not looking to spend a fortune. The problem I'm running into is that the transfer case needs to be clocked to the passenger side and most of the transmission/tcase combos I've come up with that are affordable are clocked to the drivers side. Any advice would be appreciated in regards to which models I should be looking for and which combination would do what I need it to do without costing me an arm and a leg.

Currently I've been looking at: nv4500 from a dodge 360 set up with a 23 spline output shaft. Comes with hydraulic slave and master cylinder as well as the transfer case input gear for a 231 tcase.

A 2wd nv4500 from behind a 95 454 chevy

Thanks in advance!
 
I would skip the NV4500s from the 2wd and the Dodge and look for a proper Chevy 4wd transmission.

This would allow you to install a 32 spline NP208 or passenger side drop 32 spline NP241 from a 88 or 89 K5, Suburban or Crewcab with a TH400 or an SM465. The 90 and 91 trucks also have a pass side drop NP241 but they have an electronic speed sensor on the tailshaft instead of a cable drive for your speedometer head.

The NP241 and NP208 both are very similar cases, with the NP241 having a little bit of a deeper low range ratio. The 27 spline cases from the 700r4 and TH350 can be converted to 32 spline with a new input shaft. Both transfer cases will use the same shifter as you currently have.
 
Russell has got it right. Look for a Chevy 4wd NV4500. Get a 32 spline NP208 or NP241 to bolt on. Either keep the factory NV4500 bellhousing and run a hydraulic clutch or get a bellhousing from Advance Adapters to run a mechanical linkage clutch.
 
Thank you guys, I had decided completely against using the 208 case that I already have because I didn't think it was possible to make it bolt up to a 4500. So basically, if I can get my hands on an NV4500 from a chevy 4x4 and buy a 32 spline shaft to swap into the np208 then I'll basically have everything I need to make it work?
 
That would be great! The top priority for me is to keep the expense down. Being a college student I can't afford to attempt the project if it's going to leave me broke. Any idea on floorboard clearance? The 700r4 does not clear and so the previous owner dropped it a few inches in the back. That left the front shaft at such an angle he didn't bother putting it in. I was hoping to put everything back where it was or at least level it out.
 
Russell said:
This would allow you to install a 32 spline NP208 or passenger side drop 32 spline NP241 from a 88 or 89 K5, Suburban or Crewcab with a TH400 or an SM465. The 90 and 91 trucks also have a pass side drop NP241 but they have an electronic speed sensor on the tailshaft instead of a cable drive for your speedometer head.
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The mechanical speedometer NP241 is in 1989 only. 1988 models still use the NP208.

Martin
 
I'm not too concerned with the speedo right now. My cable isn't long enough for the current setup and so it hasn't been hooked up since I've owned it. I may upgrade the cages at some point and wouldn't mind going with an electric one anyway. That's a project for a later date really.
 
nicks00si said:
That would be great! The top priority for me is to keep the expense down. Being a college student I can't afford to attempt the project if it's going to leave me broke. Any idea on floorboard clearance? The 700r4 does not clear and so the previous owner dropped it a few inches in the back. That left the front shaft at such an angle he didn't bother putting it in. I was hoping to put everything back where it was or at least level it out.
Click to expand...

I doubt that was done for clearance. Its the old school way of getting better angle on the rear drive shaft. He might have gotten some vibes so dropping it an inch or two will usually help. But that is at the expense of making the front shaft angles worse.

Swapping in the 4500, you'll need to cut the shifter hole a little a few inches back from where the 465 would go.
 
Thanks for that bit of information. I would definitely look into that as a possible upgrade. As for the trans drop, I can barely fit a finger between the floor and case which leads me to believe it was for clearance. The truck only has a 4" lift so I don't think the angle is that much of an issue, although I have no way of knowing what his thinking was so you could be right. It's going to be a bit of trial and error when the time comes but the research and assistance I'm getting from you all will definitely help to work out the bugs before I even start tearing into things!
 
The NV4500 will require a high hump transmission cover. I am not sure if the 1st gens actually had different size covers or not, but I would assume that it is unboltable just like the newer trucks so you can swap it around.

Just get a high hump automatic trans tunnel cover and cut out the opening for the shifter. Like mentioned above the shifter does sit a bit further back then an SM465, so you may need to also move your NP208 shifter back a bit as well to make everything fit together.

The mechanical installation shouldn't be half bad. If you get the AA bellhousing you can just use a stock mechanical linkage, or if you want to retrofit a hydro clutch setup in it is able to accept that as well.

It'll cost a few dollars to do the swap. Count 4 or 500 at least for other stuff that you need like clutch pedals, reverse light wiring, transmission covers etc. The transmission oil is going to be another 4 or 500 bucks depending on where you get it. If it is already filled, don't spill it! That stuff is liquid gold haha
 
I work at Oreilly's on the weekends so that will help. I've found a guy with a wrecked 95 Chevy. 4x4 with a 350 and nv4500. There's access to most of the parts I may need and some that I don't. If I can get a price on a mass of parts then I may come out alright. The blazer still has the clutch pedal in it. However, I would prefer a hydraulic clutch setup if it's not too much work.
 
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If you are going to run the hydro clutch then just retrofit the 95 clutch master and slave in. You can use a 9/16" bolt installed into the clutch pedal to slip the master cylinder ring over and secure it with a cotter pin.

That solves your bellhousing issue too.
 
Awesome, so I basically need to snag the hydraulic clutch assembly with the transmission and bell housing as well as the flywheel and I'll have the majority of it
 
That flywheel from a 1995 is not going to work for you unless your engine is 1986+.

Martin
 
What's the difference between them? Not sure if it's gear reduction starter or not on the 95
 
In 86 they switched to a 1-piece rear main seal and as a result they changed the crank flange so pre-86 and post-86 flywheels won't interchange.

If you have access to that whole truck you might want to think about taking the engine and the TBI system too. :deal:
 
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