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Front axle tear apart tips?

So how do I remove the ball joints?

Do I just remove the nuts and light tap downward and the thing should drop or do I need a special tool to remove it?

I know I need a special tool to physically remove the joints but for now I just want to remove the steering knuckle (not sure thats the correct term). The part I need to remove to get the half shafts out.

Also while I have it all apart I would like to replace the ball joint. One side has been recently replaced with a greasable joint from Les Schwab. The passenger side is the stock joint. I'd like to replace it any recomendation on ball joints and where I can get it?
 
You will need a pickle fork or a ball joint press.
I have tried both, the press will keep the ball joint seals intact if you are reusing them, the fork will thrash them.
With the press you tighten it on and then one smack and the joint pops out.
With the fork you wack it to wedge in between and usually a couple of good wacks and it pops.

So how do I remove the ball joints?

Do I just remove the nuts and light tap downward and the thing should drop or do I need a special tool to remove it?

I know I need a special tool to physically remove the joints but for now I just want to remove the steering knuckle (not sure thats the correct term). The part I need to remove to get the half shafts out.

Also while I have it all apart I would like to replace the ball joint. One side has been recently replaced with a greasable joint from Les Schwab. The passenger side is the stock joint. I'd like to replace it any recomendation on ball joints and where I can get it?
 
4lb mini sludge hammer give the inner "C" a few good wacks around the area were the ball joint shafts are going threw. should drop out in no time.

and to change the b/j's yes a press is needed.
 
Like everyone said - Use the fork and replace the ball joints if they haven't been done. Autozone has loaner tools that you pay for for some of those needs. Once your done, bring it back. If you don't bring them back, you paid full price for a used tool.

I may have missed it, what size tires are you running with that gearing?

I'm all about running the 1/2 stuff and not all into the D60's - but I'm running 33's with stock horsepower at 3.73 gearing. I'm not too concerned about breaking stuff.

That being said, you may be dropping a chunk of change with the gears and rebuild. I did a partial rebuild when I did my crossover. I threw a lockright in the front at the same time and the costs added up. In hindsight, I wish I would have jumped at an ebay D60 that was local for a great price and put the money there.

I'm not trying to hijack or anything else, just trying to give some food for thought.
 
You dont need to remove the knuckle to remove the axle shafts, just the spindle. I think you need to remove the spindle and axle shaft before you can remove the knuckles anyway.
 
You dont need to remove the knuckle to remove the axle shafts, just the spindle. I think you need to remove the spindle and axle shaft before you can remove the knuckles anyway.

Exactly. Spindle has to come off to remove the axle shafts. The axles then slide right out and you can remove the knuckle.
 
Like everyone said - Use the fork and replace the ball joints if they haven't been done. Autozone has loaner tools that you pay for for some of those needs. Once your done, bring it back. If you don't bring them back, you paid full price for a used tool.
There is an Oriely here that does the same thing. I intended to borrow the press.

I may have missed it, what size tires are you running with that gearing?
5.13 and 35" tires. I busted the 4.56 in my old rear 10 bolt. So I went with a 14 bolt SF rear axle that I put an electric locker in. Just getting around to doing the front so I can 4 wheel drive back again.

I'm all about running the 1/2 stuff and not all into the D60's - but I'm running 33's with stock horsepower at 3.73 gearing. I'm not too concerned about breaking stuff.
I don't really have an interest in changing out the front axle. The gears cost me around $200. I have no plans on locking the front axle. I dont do that much off roading.
 
You dont need to remove the knuckle to remove the axle shafts, just the spindle. I think you need to remove the spindle and axle shaft before you can remove the knuckles anyway.
Sweet!! good to know. One side the ball joints have been replaced the otherside hasn't so I may replace the side that hasn't been replaced since I'll have it apart.
 
So I got the thing all torn apart this weekend. Glad I did someone had installed the manual lockers in one side incorrectly :(

What is kinda cool is I was able to put the wheels back on after removing the half shafts. I wasn't looking forward to getting under the car to install the gears while on jackstands. My jackstand are barely tall enough and its sitting on dirt.

Sucky part is I burned up my air compressor so I couldn't get the pinion out. My buddy wasn't home so I couldn't plug it in. So I borrowed a friends 4800 watt generator, I figured that was enough since my compressor is 110V 15amps. Damn thing started out fine but then burnt the start up capacitor. So now I gotta fix the air compressor to.

I'm thinking of replacing the u-joints in the half shafts while I have it apart. Are these just 5-760x U-joints? I was going to just go with spicer any other recomendation?
 
capacitor is cheep for the compressor.

NOT half shafts. those are for fwd cars or ifs trucks.

those are axle shafts.

and if you dont swap the joints out when redoing 98% of the axle its almost not worth the job if you ask me. unless you know for sure thay are like new or new. thay are cheep and its just better in the end.

and spicer life seires are good stuff. strongest joint will be a NON greaseable joint. solid cross section.
 
Old 4.56 gears are out and in good shape. So they are up for sale for $50 plus shipping if anyone wants them. They will get shipped in the same box my new gears were packed in so they will arrive safe.
 

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