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Fuel Pump Access hatch

beags86 said:
My thoughts weren't directed at you. Just the general thought I have every time this comes up.
Personally I have never found dropping a tank to be that bad of a job. So I never really considered it a mod I would think about. No judgement on the ones that do, I was just putting it out there for the world to see.
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Some of us use these trucks to wheel and dropping a tank is not easily done on the trail. Secondly the pump will fail, it’s just a matter of when and that’s why its common to carry a spare pump. I’ve personally witnessed three failures on the trail with K5 in tank pump setups.
 
skunked said:
Some of us use these trucks to wheel and dropping a tank is not easily done on the trail. Secondly the pump will fail, it’s just a matter of when and that’s why its common to carry a spare pump. I’ve personally witnessed three failures on the trail with K5 in tank pump setups.
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I understand that.

Mixed in my thoughts does the address the might as well attitude of things.
A hardcore wheeler like you have. Your less concerned about a hole in your bed. I get it.

For me I wouldn't want a hole in my blazer. I would worry about exhaust fumes entering. And about loading on top of it. (That's just me)

Fwiw, I would be more likely to do this mod with a blazer tanked truck then a blazer.

Also understand dropping a tank on a trail sucks. But one could argue that ANY breakage on the trail sucks. I don't really care either way. I was typing out my thoughts for the person that cruising this thread in the future.
 
No, I knew you weren't. I was mostly explaining the Baitfish2 story. I still do not have a door over my rear tank.
As for dropping the tank, my front tank is easy as long as its empty. I have pulled it by myself before.
Prop it up with a 2X4, take loose the two bolts that hold the straps on and disconnect the filler hose. Then knock the board away, lower it down by hand until I can get to the wiring and fuel line hookups then slide it out.

The rear tank is a whole 'nother breed of cat. Spare tire holder, welded in trailer hitch bar, all kinds of other stuff, not to mention like most tanks, its going to be full when it quits, and you are looking at a two or three man job with a transmission jack minimum.
Its easier to pull the body for that one. I wanted to put in the door to figure out what was intermittent but never got around to it.
Lately a good friend of mine has branched out and put in a really nice shop. Actually, he put in a really nice shop, then Michel came along and totally destroyed it. He is in a temporary rented building now until he can rebuild.
But, he has the manpower and equipment to make pulling the rear tank easy. Big 4 post lift, auxiliary lifts on it, and a transmission jack.
So, he worked me in a couple of months ago. After several tests, we decided it had to be the pump. So, we put in a brand new Motorcraft. It ran for about 3 miles and died. We put in a second one. After we got the tank buttoned back up, we realized we had lost the gauge.
Rather than pull it again right then, I decided to drive it for a while. About the second tankfull, it quit working again. Not sure if its just low on gas or a bad pump. I don't want to fill it up in case its the pump, so I'm just using the front tank for now. Later this month, its going back in to find out what is going on and have some other stuff done to get it ready for hunting season.
But, at this point, I am seriously considering a door even after dropping the tank..........
 
TJ1978 said:
This is what I was thinking would be safe and hopefully easier.

Just drill a starter hole and snip away?

I’m going to replace the sender and fuel lines
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Yes. Depending on the size of the pilot hole starting the cut will fight you a bit. A new pair of snips that is still sharp and tight won't have any trouble starting from a pilot hole. The cuts get easier as you go, more room for the tool to work.
 
I can take measurements on mine later today if that helps. We used a marine hatch and there's no fumes or anything and I've put my weight on it, so it holds up.
 
Probably not a critical or overly necessary mod, like stickers on the glass. But it seems relatively easy like installing a 203 and what you gain in ease of access, probably makes it worth while. If it’s unsightly, just carpet over it.
 
IMO GM and all other manufacturers should have made an access panel so the fuel pump could be replaced without dropping the tank..
Many cars have it that way,either a panel in the trunk,or under the rear seat...some even have the sending unit made like a screw on jar top,that is easily unscrewed so you can lift out the pump..

That is the least they could do to make up for putting the pump IN the fuel tank...seeing most don't have a long life span ..
I never liked in-tank fuel pumps on vehicles you have to drop the tank on..
 
when i did mine i siliconed around the opening so no fumes get in the cab and used a tailgate panel to make the access door
rivnuted it in place with silicone
 
diesel4me said:
IMO GM and all other manufacturers should have made an access panel so the fuel pump could be replaced without dropping the tank..
Many cars have it that way,either a panel in the trunk,or under the rear seat...some even have the sending unit made like a screw on jar top,that is easily unscrewed so you can lift out the pump..

That is the least they could do to make up for putting the pump IN the fuel tank...seeing most don't have a long life span ..
I never liked in-tank fuel pumps on vehicles you have to drop the tank on..
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GM, or any manufacturers don't care about long term serviceability. They care about how serviceability is for as long as they warranty the vehicle. Say, if
the average fuel pump last 6 years, and the warranty is 5, why would you bother with a fuel pump hatch?
(Yes I know some makes and models have them- but far more, don't)
 
Kain said:
when i did mine i siliconed around the opening so no fumes get in the cab and used a tailgate panel to make the access door
rivnuted it in place with silicone
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If you used an acid cure silicone it can release acetic acid while it’s curing and attack the metal. Might want to check up on it.
 
ultra black i think is the on that not does that , i do want to add a door just have to measure and find right one
 
rampage said:
If you used an acid cure silicone it can release acetic acid while it’s curing and attack the metal. Might want to check up on it.
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You could use "Gutter Seal" caulking that is Butyl Rubber based,that wont eat away at the steel..or 3M ribbon caulk ..
 
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