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Fullsize Pre-runner Thread!

I have that black crew cab saved on computer. I realy wish I knew who makes the fenders and bedsides on that one cuz I havent been able to find them.
i found the info on that crew cab over on race-dezert.com

'74 Chevy 3+3 CrewCab, GM Performance Parts 572 (620 Hp), Culhane Th400, Speedway 9" FF, Modified equal length I-beams and spindles off a '69 E300 Van, Four Link, Sway-A-Way 3" Bypass and Coilovers and Bumpstops, 4 MasterCraft 3G Seats, Custom SS Headers and exhaust by RPM in Vista, Custom interior by El Cajon Auto Trim, Vintage Air, AutoMeter, Wiring By Wire Fab, 65 Gallon custom Fuel Cell by Complete Fabrication/Jim Harmon, 6" Autofab Fiberglass, 37" BFG Projects on American Racing Wheels, Owned by James Hable, Built by Glen Straightiff at Complete Fabrication in El Cajon who affectionately calls it El Chorizo Grande or the Big Sausage.

JumpTruck.jpg

Jump4.jpg
 
Yeah sorry bro I've been slacking on my somewhat daily updates :) Finals aren't fun :(

On another note the boss said he is willing to think the idea of a desert/sand/pre-runner type sub-forum over... so when he makes a decision either way I'll let you all know...
 
OK heres a tech oriented question. I have looked at alot of these trucks, they are awesome and I wish I had oodles of money to build one.
I however would rather have it more dual purpose and 4wd.

Now the question is why do they always build the rear trailing arms with this bulge downward? Couldnt it be pointed up for more clearance? I can understand the structure of it makes it strong, but why always down?

heres a pic for refrence

JumpTruckcircled.JPG
 
My guess is because there is a spring there. If you look closely in the 2nd picture with the suspension dropped you can see it.
 
Yes, and because when the suspension is compressed if that was angled "up" you'd be ramming it into stuff and lose some of your up-travel...

Oh and trucks at this level don't serve a dual purpose ;)
They're built for one thing and one thing only...and thats to haul ass over dirt and sand :)
 
My guess is if you built it straight trailing arm you would have to place the shocks higher up in the chassis which probably is just not practical or doable. Since most all trailing arm setups have shocks mounted mid trailing arm its just good geometry to have the trailing arms built with a elbow at the shock mounting point. Not to mention there might be clearence issues with straight arms.
 
They do it that way for strength, and also when you mount your shocks on the link like that you need to have the shock bolt below the centerline of the two link mounts if you arent running a bushing on the front or rear lower link mount. By building it that way it allows for the link to have high misalignment, and also have enough strength to be able to keep up with the abuse of the high speed desert stuff.

Oh yeah, here's another bad ass truck I see out at glamis all the time.

57chevy4.jpg
 
Pretty unique setup...

So we see its linked and coiled but do you know what he runs engine/tranny/TC/axle wise?
 
If any body is seriously thinking of building a prerunner and want cheap and Chevy I would start with a 68-72 2wd cuz then you basically have the rear trailing arms to start with.
 
Yeah but I don't have a 4x4 to tow it with...
1985 K10
350/700R4/208/14ff/10b/4.10's/8"/38.5" MT Baja Claws
2000 C2500
BB454/14ff/3.73's/4L80E


:confused::confused::confused::confused:

I say it`s time to lower the K10 to 4", throw some 33s under it, and make that the DD/towrig. With 33s, you`re already at a great gear setup for towing :deal:
 
The reason they build the angled arms is due to shock geometry. I did the same thing with my Blazer originally. Then decided a 4 seater was a must. I moved the shocks over the rear axle. Made them hard to tune. Also, putting the shocks forward on the arms can give 24 inches of travel out of 18 inch shocks and so on. The leverage can work in your favor for tuning.

In Moab, everybody was telling me I was going to hang up on the arms. Once I figured out I could hit things faster than most people, the arms became rock sliders that lifted the rear wheels onto the ledges. Who knew? I only had to back up twice to get over something.
 
1985 K10
350/700R4/208/14ff/10b/4.10's/8"/38.5" MT Baja Claws
2000 C2500
BB454/14ff/3.73's/4L80E


:confused::confused::confused::confused:

I say it`s time to lower the K10 to 4", throw some 33s under it, and make that the DD/towrig. With 33s, you`re already at a great gear setup for towing :deal:

Yeah but I don't want to tow w/ a 22 year old truck thats a 1/2 ton standard cab short bed... I couldn't even imagine trying to tow with that short of a wheelbase even if it did have the power... plus I don't think that 700r4 would like towing 10k :D
There are some BIG hills that we have to climb to get over to the coast and even with the BB/4L80e/3.73 and stock height tire combo it gives me a run for my money so I know my k10 just doesn't have the cajonies...
I'm sort of on pause right now b/c I don't know whats going to happen to the '00 crew cab. My dad has a truck, I have my '85, my mom has a new Santa Fe' (and absolutely no desire to ever drive a truck again) and my sister doesn't drive...
 
I've been doing some thinking and have realized as much as I like my truck and it works ok out in the sand (only wheelin' I like ;)) a pre-runner build might be more at home for the dunes...

I ran across this and it gave me some ideas... so has anyone on here experimented with a full size pre-runner like this? Are they just too heavy to work?
Maybe a "hybrid" pre-runner (keep the 4wd) would be an option...


[youtube]HrKq-kawXu4[/youtube]
no,but i like the idea.i think it would be fun.:D
 
Holy old post batman! haha
Nice to have you join the wishful thinking pre-runner thread :)
Oh and yeah it'd be fun!
 
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