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Gearing questions(4/23 What a Deal on a D60 and 14FF)

lectric80 said:
Ok so a friend of mine who is providing me with the replacement power tailgate, found a set of 3/4 ton axles from a 77. I would be willing to take them but the front is a D60. I know about the crossover steering and High steer options, but is it worth picking up these axles. I really don't want to make major changes to the steering system, so will my stock steering setup work with the D60? I know that the D60 is expensive to rebuild, but should I just pick up the 14bff, and then convert my 10b to 3/4 ton outers?

You better verify that it's a D60. A '77 3/4-ton should have had a D44 up front. If it really is a D60 and you can get it cheap, do it. If you don't want it after the fact, you can easily sell it for $1000 or more.
 
goldwing2000 said:
You better verify that it's a D60. A '77 3/4-ton should have had a D44 up front. If it really is a D60 and you can get it cheap, do it. If you don't want it after the fact, you can easily sell it for $1000 or more.
Well he is going to find out what the guys wants for them. He did say that the 14 has a Detroit in the rear, but he is going to find out what gears are in it currrently. I can always change them if I need to, after I buy it, but it would be nice if they were 4.10's.

I was thinking the same thing, that it wouldn't be original, but my buddy swears it is a D60, and we should be able to pick up both for about 150 each unless he meant the guy is really trying to get rid of it and really meant 150 for the set. That is what he is going to verify and let me know for sure Monday. They won't be going in for a while, but it couldn't hurt to have them now. Even if it is a 10b I wouldn't complain, but a D60 would be really killer for the K5.

The D60 is supposed to be locked, but the guy stated it was a cable locker so that would be preferable in my case to having a detroit or any other auto locker, especially in the snow around here.
 
One other question while I am thinking about it...Has anybody run a 4" lift with 35's on a K5? If so how does it clear the fender wells? I really don't want to join the chop crowd, and trim fenders, I am just getting ready to order a lift, and since I know I want to go with 35's, I want to see if I would be better off going for a 6" full spring lift. For the little extra cost, it will really open the clearance up, but stability may be an issue. I DD more than off-road so...that should be my primary consideration.
 
No body has run 35's with a 4" lift? If not I guess that means that I need to go with the 6" lift to clear the tires.
 
every truck is different, theres alot of variables like if your body mounts are bad or if your tires actually measure out to 35. just go six, its way cooler IMO.
 
obijuan said:
every truck is different, theres alot of variables like if your body mounts are bad or if your tires actually measure out to 35. just go six, its way cooler IMO.
Well, I guess the real question is how stable is it at 6? Whether I go with 4 or 6 I am still going to replace the sway bar bushings, and put the appropriate lowering into it. I agree that the 6 would look cooler, but I have a family to consider and don't want to put it too high. If the 35's will clear with 4, as well as the 33's do now with stock suspension, then that would work.
 
i have no problem screeching my 35's around corners. not alot of body roll either, but my front springs are stiff and no sway bar either. i have seen 35s rub on 6 and fit on no lift. trial and error homers. 35 will fit with 4 but will rub when flexed out. and still looks pretty badass. for teh family i would go 4 w/ 35's
 
obijuan said:
i have no problem screeching my 35's around corners. not alot of body roll either, but my front springs are stiff and no sway bar either. i have seen 35s rub on 6 and fit on no lift. trial and error homers. 35 will fit with 4 but will rub when flexed out. and still looks pretty badass. for teh family i would go 4 w/ 35's
Well, at least for now the full flex shouldn't really be felt since I don't do anything too extreme. Maybe live with the 4 for a few years until the kids are a little older then move it up to the 6. Run the 35's the whole time and I may not even see a need for the 6. I am definately not getting any younger.
 
I ran 33's and 3.08's , doggy from a light , but liveable , and I have a 700r4 for the better first gear . This worked great considering it goes against everything read on Ck5

33's 305 700r4 uphill , notice I am giving it little throttle http://media.putfile.com/me-steep-hill-

Next I ran 3.73's and 33's , better and actually loved it .

I have 35's and 4.56 now , and I am never going back to highway gears :thumb:
 
pauly383 said:
I ran 33's and 3.08's , doggy from a light , but liveable , and I have a 700r4 for the better first gear . This worked great considering it goes against everything read on Ck5

33's 305 700r4 uphill , notice I am giving it little throttle http://media.putfile.com/me-steep-hill-

Next I ran 3.73's and 33's , better and actually loved it .

I have 35's and 4.56 now , and I am never going back to highway gears :thumb:
I can say for certain that with 33's and 3.08's, and a 350/350 combination the beast gets blown away by pretty much everything at a light. I did check the video and you are giving it very little gas, but since I have the TH350 I am going to probably go to 4.10's or 3.73's. Eventually I want to put the 700 in, so if I do 4.10's now it would probably be better in the long run for that plan. I may look at going lower in the future but for now the 3.73's would work for the 33's, but if I can find a good set of 3/4 ton axles with 4.10's, I will snap them up. Should find out today about the 14FF and D60 that a friend of mine found. Hopefully cheap, but if it is a D60 and the guy has any brains it won't be cheap.
 
Ok so I just confirmed a 14FF and a D60 with cable locker, for 200 a piece. Needless to say, my wife is going to kill me but I am going to buy them. Even if I decide I don't need the D60, I can always sell it. The truck was running and driving three months ago and blew the engine.
 
lectric80 said:
Ok so I just confirmed a 14FF and a D60 with cable locker, for 200 a piece. Needless to say, my wife is going to kill me but I am going to buy them. Even if I decide I don't need the D60, I can always sell it. The truck was running and driving three months ago and blew the engine.
Ok so I will be going over this weekend to take a look and see what gears are in them. The 14bff has a detroit locker in it, which is great, and the 60 has a cable locker of some kind, although I don't know the brand yet. I plan on at the least picking up the D60 first, and then if money permits will get the 14 later next month. For that price I can't pass them up, and it won't hurt if they sit for a while. Guess I won't be ordering my lift for a month or two.
 
lectric80 said:
One other question while I am thinking about it...Has anybody run a 4" lift with 35's on a K5? If so how does it clear the fender wells? I really don't want to join the chop crowd, and trim fenders, I am just getting ready to order a lift, and since I know I want to go with 35's, I want to see if I would be better off going for a 6" full spring lift. For the little extra cost, it will really open the clearance up, but stability may be an issue. I DD more than off-road so...that should be my primary consideration.

Here's mine with 3" lift and zero rates at each corner and 35" BFGs. Maybe because I have a 400sbc but I have gobs of power/speed off the line with my 3.08's and 35" tires. Of course I'm just waiting everyday to have to replace my currently fine running th350. Anyways, here's the blazer with 35" and 4"

Let the pic whoring commence!

DSCN0467.JPG

DSCN0475.JPG

DSCN0467.JPG

DSCN0475.JPG
 
say that since you dont have all the money, see if hell take 250 or 300 for the set. lucky newb....
 
obijuan said:
say that since you dont have all the money, see if hell take 250 or 300 for the set. lucky newb....
I know I got really lucky with a score like this. Since it is a friend of mine, I may just put the first 200 down and then he will hold the rear until I get the rest later in May. I am not giving up the D60, as I can always sell it later. Around Utah there are good deals to be had, even for us noobs. Yeah I will probably see if he would take 300 for the set, and if so, I just won't eat for a week or two.
 
Big Blzn said:
Here's mine with 3" lift and zero rates at each corner and 35" BFGs. Maybe because I have a 400sbc but I have gobs of power/speed off the line with my 3.08's and 35" tires. Of course I'm just waiting everyday to have to replace my currently fine running th350. Anyways, here's the blazer with 35" and 4"

Let the pic whoring commence!

View attachment 45529

View attachment 45530
Ok so just to prove what a noob I am, what the heck are zero rates?
 
shoot im starving....


edit:

zero rates are these nifty little blocks that lift your truck an inch and give you the option of extending your wheelbase an inch or so.
 
I am thinking I can handle starving for a little while just to know that my garage is hiding a D60 and 14ff ready to be stuffed into the K5. My dream is coming together slowly, now if I can just make a little more money I will be able to afford the paint and body by winter.

Thanks for the heads up about zero rates. I had been wondering about them.
 
I'd live on ramen noodles for two weeks if I could find a D60 for $200.
 
goldwing2000 said:
I'd live on ramen noodles for two weeks if I could find a D60 for $200.
100% agreement here. I will be going to look this Friday or Saturday, and confirm what I have been told, as well as find out what gears are in them. I am willing to regear it. The kids and wife will still eat, I just won't have any extra money for buying food while at work.
 

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