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Give me the ups and downs of a 6" lift for a daily driver

M

MEGALADON

1/2 ton status
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Feb 4, 2005
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HOUSTON
I really really want to go with a 6" lift and 15/10 with 35/12 1/2 tires.
I have an 82 GMC P/K with 10 bolts front and rear. Not sure if its a weak point. The truck will not be offroaded, maybe some beach time. I like the
look of the lift with those size tires, I want to know if I can get a nice or
soft ride with a all spring lift, and whats a good shock to go with for comfort.
I have a 454 with a 700R-4 trans. Not sure what a 82 came with for a tranfer case, but it works well.

I'm sure this has came up a millon times here, but lets hear everyones input,
and post some pic's with 6" and 35 tires.

THANKS ALL :bow:

0011.jpg


I would also like to know if this is dangerous for street driving, does it affect my breaking, will it be a whole lot easier to turn the truck over If I have to steer hard to the left or right to aviod an accident. I just love the pose of the truck with a setup like that, but want to be able to have fun on the streets to.
 
6" and 35's aren't gonna mess with you that bad. Yes... braking will be impacted... and yes... so will acceleration. I doubt with the stock brakes you'd be able to lock up.... but you can stop well enough. DD... I say it's fine. I had one... it was great.
 
So I take it I don't have to worry about poping my axels, or breaking anything.
 
how much wheeling do you plan on doing? I assume they're 10 bolts with 3.73's...?
 
No wheelin or off road use, mabe some beach time only. not sure on the gear ratio, but yes, 10 bolts front and rear. I am building the truck just for looks, but need it to perform as a driver also. I don't know if a 6" lift and 35's are for mainly offroad use only or can perform on the sreets also.
 
You can get it to perform on the street but if your gears are anything (numerically) less that 3.73's I wouldn't even consider it.
 
I tried the 33/12 1/2 with a 10" rim and it looks good, but I want to get higher.


IMG_0690.jpg
 
mikey_d05 said:
You can get it to perform on the street but if your gears are anything (numerically) less that 3.73's I wouldn't even consider it.
Click to expand...

How can I find out?? :doah:
 
lift the truck up... spin the driveshaft twice... count how many revolutions the tired does.

if it look slike 3 and 3/4... it's 3.73 etc...

and yes... that'd be absolutely fine. If it's street and relatively light offroad then you'll be good. Maybe even with gears anywhere in the 3's?
 
The most foolproof way is to pull the diff. cover and count teeth on the ring and pinion. Your t-case is a 203 by the way.
 
mikey_d05 said:
The most foolproof way is to pull the diff. cover and count teeth on the ring and pinion. Your t-case is a 203 by the way.
Click to expand...

definately the most foolproof... but you know me... gotta do it the lazy way!
 
I did it with my crew cab -

4095crewcab1.jpg


6" Rough Country kit
35" BFG's
16.5x12 welds
4.56's

I don't see any problems with doing it, I'm very happy with my truck and it's been daily driven (6 days a week) for 3 years now. It doesn't have any ill manners on the road, it's just plain fun to drive. The only thing I would do different would be to use rear lift springs instead of blocks (lots of wrap up).

I did have to have the OE exhaust crossover rerouted to clear front driveshaft (which was plenty long enough for the lift).

Depending on your current gear ratio, I would at least go with a 3.73. That said, my 4.56's feel perfect.
 
Your truck should have come with a 208 t-case.
 
Your t-case should be iron, and it should be very long with three sections to it. If not, I'm a moron and they introduced auto locking hubs well before I realized it. Just a question, how'd you get a 454, and a 203 case in an '82 half ton?
 
Auto locking and full time hubs are completely different. The 203 (available thru 79) used full time hubs, or more simply put, internal style drive flanges. The auto locking hubs were used on part time 4wd trucks (beginning in 81, I believe) and they offered the convenience of not having to get out and turn a knob. Unfortunately the auto locking hubs were unreliable and destined to fail.
 
Sorry, looked and immediately thought 203 drive flanges, must be autolockers. My fault.
 
nvrenuf said:
Your truck should have come with a 208 t-case.
Click to expand...

thats what I thought, I know its completly stock when I bought it, except
someone put a 350 trans in place of the 700r-4, But i am putting the 700r-4 back in. the t-case is aluminium, and I don't have to go lock my hubs, or get out of the truck to use 4 wheel drive, to get out of 4x4, I just back up 10 feet in reverse ;)
 
I wouldn't put a 700R4 behind a BBC with possibly wanting to run 35's and not knowing the gears in the axles. You wouldn't be able to use the OD if you have 3.08 gears, and the possibilities of burning it up are just to great.

When I pulled the motor in my '90 Burb (w/3.42's, 35's and a 700R4) the trans fluid looked very dark. I never put it in OD, and still burnt the fluid....
 
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