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go fast trail / desert springs

Chris can answer your questions. And that's what they pay him to do.

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Duelling. Go 2" for what you are doing. The 7100 would be OK. But I think you would be happier in the long run with the 2" shocks.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Duelling. Go 2" for what you are doing. The 7100 would be OK. But I think you would be happier in the long run with the 2" shocks.
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So the fox 2.0s would be a better shock? Good deal, luckily they are damn near the same in price. :D
 
Yes I will second the fox's. If you want an upgrade on those look at the ones with by-passes, it just gives you more adjustability to fine tune. It's where I'm heading on my rears as I already have them on the front. Maybe try and find some from someone's failed rail project. I got my front 2.5 triple's for 1/2 price that way.
 
sponsoredbydad said:
What length are you looking for.
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No Idea. I plan on the 4" ord springs and diy flip out back with stock springs. So I figured I would need to figure that out after lifing. And Im not against trimming the inner fenders and adding some small hoops or taller mounts if that would do any better.
 
So does any one know what the factory spring rate was for the K5's?

Looking for 1987 model year info to be exact.
 
Deuling said:
No Idea. I plan on the 4" ord springs and diy flip out back with stock springs. So I figured I would need to figure that out after lifing. And Im not against trimming the inner fenders and adding some small hoops or taller mounts if that would do any better.
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Definately add a new mount up front and don't waste money on shorter front shocks. At 4" and stock mount you can only run like a 9" shock in front. My rig has 4-5" with Ford towers in the front and I run 12" shocks all around, for reference. You could probably get the 14" shocks in front with hoops or high towers, but I don't know if you get any more real travel.
 
Blue85 said:
Definately add a new mount up front and don't waste money on shorter front shocks. At 4" and stock mount you can only run like a 9" shock in front. My rig has 4-5" with Ford towers in the front and I run 12" shocks all around, for reference. You could probably get the 14" shocks in front with hoops or high towers, but I don't know if you get any more real travel.
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Sounds like a plan. 12" 2.0s up front and build some towers around them. I wonder what would be needed in the back? Not gonna hack my floor open for longer shocks lol, and i dont like the inboarding kits, sounds too unstable.
 
Deuling said:
Sounds like a plan. 12" 2.0s up front and build some towers around them. I wonder what would be needed in the back? Not gonna hack my floor open for longer shocks lol, and i dont like the inboarding kits, sounds too unstable.
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It's hard to fit a 12" to 14" shock in the rear without some weird stuff. Mount the rear shocks off the back of the axle, down low like bottom of tube you might stand a chance at getting them to stay under the floor? However when you do this you can put get them to end up being behind the back seat and then going through the floor isn't as bad.

Look at the build pics by ORD for the guy from Russia or maybe it's Azerbaijan I helped/built the shock mounts for that and I don't think we could keep them below the floor and those were 14" travel Kings. IIRC the top of the shock was near the top of the fender well but had to be just towards the inside of the fender well to clear the tires on articulation.
 
miniwally said:
It's hard to fit a 12" to 14" shock in the rear without some weird stuff. Mount the rear shocks off the back of the axle, down low like bottom of tube you might stand a chance at getting them to stay under the floor? However when you do this you can put get them to end up being behind the back seat and then going through the floor isn't as bad.

Look at the build pics by ORD for the guy from Russia or maybe it's Azerbaijan I helped/built the shock mounts for that and I don't think we could keep them below the floor and those were 14" travel Kings. IIRC the top of the shock was near the top of the fender well but had to be just towards the inside of the fender well to clear the tires on articulation.
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I was just gonna go for a shorter shock in the rear.... Or bad idea?
 
Deuling said:
I was just gonna go for a shorter shock in the rear.... Or bad idea?
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Depends on what the spring travel is. Generally you want a bit more rear travel than front travel just to help the rear end stay behind the front end on hard hits. Kind of sucks when it trys to swap out on you.

It really sucks when it does.
 
miniwally said:
Depends on what the spring travel is. Generally you want a bit more rear travel than front travel just to help the rear end stay behind the front end on hard hits. Kind of sucks when it trys to swap out on you.

It really sucks when it does.
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It will be stock springs with shackle flip in the rear....
 
for my rear im designing a cantilever type setup with shorter shocks, everything should fit under the bed floor and be bolt on.

maybe do something similar to use the shorter shock and mechanical advantage to keep your spring travel numbers?.... how much do stock rears even travel?
 
On mine I was going to use the ford mounts in the rear as well. But my body lift allows for probably 4 more inches of shock. I just need to get it on a lift to test droop. I have 14in shocks up front with Ford towers and my lift. 6 inches of up and 8 inches of droop. Works fabulous on my Suburban that is mostly mud truck duty with occasional climbing. And the Rancho RS90xx are nice for what I need, fade isn't bad and made it much smoother than the old twin tubes.
 
454Sub said:
On mine I was going to use the ford mounts in the rear as well. But my body lift allows for probably 4 more inches of shock. I just need to get it on a lift to test droop. I have 14in shocks up front with Ford towers and my lift. 6 inches of up and 8 inches of droop. Works fabulous on my Suburban that is mostly mud truck duty with occasional climbing. And the Rancho RS90xx are nice for what I need, fade isn't bad and made it much smoother than the old twin tubes.
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What front springs are you running that get 14"? of travel?
 
Deuling said:
It will be stock springs with shackle flip in the rear....
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I'm honestly spoiled in the fact that in recent history my leaf spring work has been based on design parameters that Stephen gives me.

For instance, the springs are designed to go 1" negative arch max on compression and have 14" of travel. Then it's kind of a simple game of string lines and math to set up things. One or two super dangerous spring cycles to check and make sure it's all correct and call it done and let Jed weld it up.

Or it's link and coils and all of that is even easier:pimp:
 
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