CherryK5
1/2 ton status
You leave that poor jimmy alone Eric!! Gawd DA****T you leave it the **** ALONE!!!!
Why not improve on an old worn out suspension. Dont hate.
CK5
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Going coils in the rear. *link pics up*
- Thread starter CherryK5
- Start date
Why not improve on an old worn out suspension. Dont hate.
You leave that poor jimmy alone Eric!! Gawd DA****T you leave it the **** ALONE!!!!
You should encourage me, cause its going to stay low and small tired,
now quit messin up Cherrys thread
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Im only two inches over stock.You should encourage me, cause its going to stay low and small tired,
now quit messin up Cherrys thread
hence why my geometry is so good.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
This is a cool diy setup, me likey 
But I have some concerns...
I agree.
With leafs springs you have something like 7-10 sqare inches of leafs next to the spring perches to counter act axle wrap, and thats on both sides.
Now you've got maybe 1-2 square inches instead.
I know it's comparing apples and oranges, but you get the picture.
It think it's just a matter of time before it will break.
But one single tube on each side from the axle that attaches maybe a couple of feet forward on to the link, would make a huge difference.
There's really not any reason to use bushings, since you dont need or want any flex there.
Unless it's street-driven and you want to keep vibrations down.
But I'm guessing this truck is a trail only rig?
I would bolt it directly to the axle, with one point down at the tube and one in about the height your current link is attached
What kind of joint do you have between the link and the crossmember btw?
pics?
But I have some concerns...
I agree.
With leafs springs you have something like 7-10 sqare inches of leafs next to the spring perches to counter act axle wrap, and thats on both sides.
Now you've got maybe 1-2 square inches instead.
I know it's comparing apples and oranges, but you get the picture.
It think it's just a matter of time before it will break.
But one single tube on each side from the axle that attaches maybe a couple of feet forward on to the link, would make a huge difference.
There's really not any reason to use bushings, since you dont need or want any flex there.
Unless it's street-driven and you want to keep vibrations down.
But I'm guessing this truck is a trail only rig?
I would bolt it directly to the axle, with one point down at the tube and one in about the height your current link is attached
What kind of joint do you have between the link and the crossmember btw?
pics?
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
This is a cool diy setup, me likey
But I have some concerns...
I agree.
With leafs springs you have something like 7-10 sqare inches of leafs next to the spring perches to counter act axle wrap, and thats on both sides.
Now you've got maybe 1-2 square inches instead.
I know it's comparing apples and oranges, but you get the picture.
the perches are the same size as a stock perch. So really nothing on the axle is different. You just don't have any give from a spring.
It think it's just a matter of time before it will break.
But one single tube on each side from the axle that attaches maybe a couple of feet forward on to the link, would make a huge difference.
There's really not any reason to use bushings, since you dont need or want any flex there.
Unless it's street-driven and you want to keep vibrations down.
But I'm guessing this truck is a trail only rig?
I would bolt it directly to the axle, with one point down at the tube and one in about the height your current link is attached
Nope, DD weekend wheeler, until I get a second vehicle. But everythig I've done lately has made it drive better, and actually made the dd part much nicer. Contrary to what the internet said, full hydro made my truck 15 times nicer to drive on the street, and for the price of this suspension setup, its unbeatable, and makes leave look like a joke. Im glad I went with both of the upgrades.
What kind of joint do you have between the link and the crossmember btw?
pics?
Standard grader ball off a t600 motor grader[/QUOTE
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Dont know how, but im into my third 2lb spool of wire on this suspension.
Im probably going to get a 10lb spool next time.
Anyways, Drivers side is "done" Minus half a weld and paint. and the passenger side isssss.... not.
Im probably going to get a 10lb spool next time.
Anyways, Drivers side is "done" Minus half a weld and paint. and the passenger side isssss.... not.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
That's two separate welds jerk.
One welding the square tubing to the round stock. And then the panhard mount just happened to end up right on top of it.
That's two separate welds jerk.
One welding the square tubing to the round stock. And then the panhard mount just happened to end up right on top of it.
It was just too good of an opportunity to give you grief.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
I know. And its flux core. And fat welds for good measure. Recipe for disappearing wire.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
It's not the perches I worry about, I think the link-tube just in front of the perches (where your double weld is) will be the weak spot.
Cool, I've never seen one of those. I like it
It looks like you can adjust the play in it when it gets worn, is that correct?
How much does one of those cost?
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
It's not the perches I worry about, I think the link-tube just in front of the perches (where your double weld is) will be the weak spot.
Cool, I've never seen one of those. I like it
It looks like you can adjust the play in it when it gets worn, is that correct?
How much does one of those cost?
The round stock goes all the way through the square tubing.
And no idea on the price. It was given to me. Pirate has a list of specs and prices. And yes its adjustable.
