were did the firewall go 
and NEVER rough country
and NEVER rough country
CK5
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Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…
- Thread starter Jon52
- Start date
Papa is fixing up grandpa’s ole Blazer
Thanks for the positive insight. I had hoped to have this all done in a few months. Then I found all the rust, the wire harness crumbled as I removed some connections, and my to do list grew… since it was a driver in December I thought easy refresh.
LOL, the Gods of rust and time had other plans.
I think I will pull the seats out and not remove the dash. It’s just more difficult to contort into the space under the dash in my mid fifties. lol
Like eating an elephant. Got it. One bite at a time.
Yeah, the only way to remove the dash is to cut it near the windshield (like people do to install the DIY4x4 dash) or pull the windshield and seal to sever the pinch weld. It bolts in along the sides. If the dash is cut out, it could probably be butt welded back in place, but that's adding a lot of work.
You may gain the access you need by pulling the column or some other stuff under the dash.
You may gain the access you need by pulling the column or some other stuff under the dash.
Wrong
It's like eating Grandma's nasty dish pushed on you as a kid. Get some down and when nobody is looking fill it will bondo and let the dog eat it.
Also, Grandpa understands
You got this man. Just don't give up.
Haha. U r right.Wrong
It's like eating Grandma's nasty dish pushed on you as a kid. Get some down and when nobody is looking fill it will bondo and let the dog eat it.
Also, Grandpa understands
Let the games begin. Looks rough but solid. Bondo it is to smooth it out. I figure doing the remainder of this firewall will take 3 pieces. Then the cowel or gutter as it may be. Hopefully by the time I am done with the panels you won’t see I will be better and ready for rockers and door bottoms.
Yep, also nobody cares about patches that overlap. Remove the rust and put a patch in, weld or rivet. You'll make it right after a lottery win or the next guy can. Either way the rust has stopped growing while you just try to enjoy the truck and the memory it carries. Too often cars get crushed cause people pass away with an unfinished car and the loved ones don't care to drive it.
Get r dun!
Get r dun!
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Seam sealer will make that look factory.
Pre clean up using old metal get it cut and shaped then clean before weld in.
What is this panel called? Pass side kick panel?
Need to source one.
What I see online didn’t match. Or they use stock photos not showing diff
Need to source one.
What I see online didn’t match. Or they use stock photos not showing diff
Yes. Swamp life is tough on metal. Dry out from Dec to feb then wet all over again.
If you’re referring to what I think you are, that’s all part of the firewall (link to AMD panel). The best bet there is probably to patch yours with sheetmetal and cut/bend/weld to fit. That panel is expensive and installing it whole would mean removing the upper cowl/windshield frame.
The kick panel (link to AMD panel) is the vertical piece right below the big oval fresh air vent hole in the side of the firewall.
More welding a lot of grinding and moving forward. Wish I were a better welder. I hope this holds. lol.
Next the cowel “ gutter” area that is the horizontal to this vertical repair. Oh boy….
Next the cowel “ gutter” area that is the horizontal to this vertical repair. Oh boy….
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Don't forget seam sealer after it's welded up in the cowl.
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A little late to the spring party. Rough country is just that. Tuff Country EZ rides is what I have. On 2nd set of rears, oops, they got a little wavy due to heavy abuse. but then I do have zero rate, shackle flip, extended shackles.
Bilsteins up front helped a lot, and new body mounts were a great up grade.
You guys are digging deep on the body work, holy cleco count.
Bilsteins up front helped a lot, and new body mounts were a great up grade.
You guys are digging deep on the body work, holy cleco count.
Well. Couldn’t find that panel anywhere so minor repair and make do. Also beefing up fender lower bracket. Leaking cowel does a lot of damage for sure.
Next, how to address the under dash/cowel/gutter under windshield. Firewall now solid but where horizontal cowel piece ties in it is missing a good inch the entire way across. Do I try and fab a metal piece of angle and tack it in or will fiberglass cloth put in and then skim that with seam sealer and paint??? Will fiberglass fail too quickly or is it good for a few decades(my life time). Any one have issues with the fiberglass option or do I need strength from metal?
Next, how to address the under dash/cowel/gutter under windshield. Firewall now solid but where horizontal cowel piece ties in it is missing a good inch the entire way across. Do I try and fab a metal piece of angle and tack it in or will fiberglass cloth put in and then skim that with seam sealer and paint??? Will fiberglass fail too quickly or is it good for a few decades(my life time). Any one have issues with the fiberglass option or do I need strength from metal?
Yeah. I am just learning. Maybe I don’t need so many spot tacks with the cleckos but they do an amazing job of helping form the patch to a curved body line. Is there a rule of thumb for spacing on spot welds?
If you were not on the opposite corner of the country, I would have given you a rust free firewall for that section. The big issue you are creating is the gutter area and the firewall section you are patching should be one continuous piece of sheetmetal for both leak prevention and structural strength.
