SOUTH PARK!!!
CK5
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Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…
- Thread starter Jon52
- Start date
Papa is fixing up grandpa’s ole Blazer
lol you caught it…
Awesome...but why is it Ford blue?
I know I know…. I was a Ford guy and I love that blue. Bear with me as I replace my oval with the bow tie…
so any input on new dash cluster? I see all original is about 1000$ or…. I am a nerd. I can build a touch screen programmable LCD complete replacement 12” screen hosts dozens of gauges and can make look anyway I want for 200$.
Raspberry pi build gauge cluster. Any thoughts or ideas?
Raspberry pi build gauge cluster. Any thoughts or ideas?
I did a Raspberry Pi gauge cluster. It's not without some pitfalls.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/rebuild-of-blue85-post-fire.350134/page-4#post-4378752
- First of all, you have to think about how it will boot up and shut down. You can't just power it from switched ignition. It's also necessary to avoid corrupting the SD card. This requires software support and a hardware implementation. Most just put a UPS/Li-Ion hat on it. I made my own circuit with a logic-level SSR.
- You have to think about boot times and that you will be driving sometimes with no dash. An SSD conversion helps, especially on the later Pi's with PCIe. It also helps greatly with the corruption issue. I put in a discrete oil pressure gauge so if something goes wrong I don't have to 2nd guess that.
- You have to implement screen dimming somehow. Otherwise, you either can't read it in the sunlight or can hardly drive at night. I'm using an optical sensor. You could also have it step down when the headlights come on. I thought about making it variable with the dash light dimmer switch (which doesn't have as much to do anymore), but didn't get around to designing an interface to do that.
- You'll need to bring in discrete signals that the ECU doesn't have, like the turn signals and high beam indicator. I built my own circuits on a proto-board kind of hat. Any analog signals you need (for example transmission temp) will have to go through the ECU. Otherwise you'll need another ADC interfaced to the Pi and that has to have real automotive type I/O in it to avoid getting fried by transients.
- Sometimes settings get messed up and you have to be prepared to deal with it. I keep a little wireless keyboard/touchpad in the truck. It also helps because sooner or later (i.e. regularly), you'll want to mess around with the tune and settings. The one I haven't fixed for good yet is that it often loses the GPS settings. The speedo says 8000MPH the whole time.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/rebuild-of-blue85-post-fire.350134/page-4#post-4378752
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Question….
Fixed window rot just finished some color match paint so when do paint it will blend into the window seal flange area
Photo 1 where we are today.
Photo 2 is my idea to reduce heat transfer into cab and to cover my metal work lol
Any down sides to this?
Fixed window rot just finished some color match paint so when do paint it will blend into the window seal flange area
Photo 1 where we are today.
Photo 2 is my idea to reduce heat transfer into cab and to cover my metal work lol
Any down sides to this?
I would put the sound deadening material on the inside and just paint the under hood side of the firewall black.
If i ever rip mine down that far and actually fix all the rust and have a decent body, I even thought about doing bedliner from top of the firewall all the way underneath to the very back on the bottom side of the body. Plus maybe the inside of the tub on the floor and side walls, possibly inside of firewall too. Mines an M1009 though. no carpet or side panels in the rear. I also doubt I'll ever tear it down that far though!
If i ever rip mine down that far and actually fix all the rust and have a decent body, I even thought about doing bedliner from top of the firewall all the way underneath to the very back on the bottom side of the body. Plus maybe the inside of the tub on the floor and side walls, possibly inside of firewall too. Mines an M1009 though. no carpet or side panels in the rear. I also doubt I'll ever tear it down that far though!
Leave fire wall alone and put heat and sound deading inside the cab.
Is that butyl or asphalt based? I would check the temp ratings and flammability very carefully. I don't think it's rated for exterior installation where mud and water can creep underneath it.
Firewall should be body color.
You could look for a diesel parts truck somewhere, they came factory with a big one piece firewall "cover" GM put there to reduce sound inside the cab. I'm sure it reduces heat too though. I would say you're going to get more heat into the cab from the floor and footwell area from the exhaust than through the firewall.
You could look for a diesel parts truck somewhere, they came factory with a big one piece firewall "cover" GM put there to reduce sound inside the cab. I'm sure it reduces heat too though. I would say you're going to get more heat into the cab from the floor and footwell area from the exhaust than through the firewall.
Look up lizard skin sound and thermal insulation, it sprays on and can give you what you want without promoting new rust.
Big day in the barn. Brought home a long block.
Now I have a bunch of questions as I build it out.
Now I have a bunch of questions as I build it out.
Nice, a 400
That Ford blue is killing me...
Looking for input.
On a budget build…
Thinking :
MSD HEI distributor
MSD coil
Maybe the street fire combo
4091 NGK plugs builder
recommended these plugs
Edelbrock 650 or 600cc? 1906
Do wires matter size and manufacturer or just 8 mm or 9mm ??
Also
Pulleys I guess staying belt but need a few new so was thinking a set of new matched aluminum billet? Anyone have a source or recommendation
On a budget build…
Thinking :
MSD HEI distributor
MSD coil
Maybe the street fire combo
4091 NGK plugs builder
recommended these plugs
Edelbrock 650 or 600cc? 1906
Do wires matter size and manufacturer or just 8 mm or 9mm ??
Also
Pulleys I guess staying belt but need a few new so was thinking a set of new matched aluminum billet? Anyone have a source or recommendation
Don't worry he has a Ford $ucks flag behind it....
I would use the full fledged MSD, I would skip the cheaper street fire stuff if you can. An MSD 6A or 6AL or Ultra 6AL would be good. The L adds a rev limiter to protect your engine.
Depends on the build specs, what are the bore/stroke, is it factory 400, 4.125" x 3.75"? (If it is make sure you get the externally balanced balancer and flexplate)
What are the cam and heads? Have the heads been modified?
I recommend low resistance plug wires like the MSD super conductor or Taylor Thundervolt with the MSD ignition.
I can get Allstar pulleys that are less expensive, or March which are top quality among other brands in between.
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