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"Gredda's" Build / WTF / Help Me! Thread

Im not taking the door panels off, but I am taping and wrapping them. Same with the dash area, and the sides. When I did my jeep, I made like a cocoon and sprayed inside it.

I needed some simple reward, as I feel like I have been working on the same thing for too long already. Im done with the sanding, and now Im waiting on my cousin to return my welder so I can "fishtale" the last crack in my floorboard. I also have the rest of the taping up to do before I can spray the bedliner.

So, I decided to start cleaning and painting the spare axle, because at this point I really think I am going to switch over to it. ( I need info on how easy it is for me to move the locker and the hubs over to the spare axle ) rather than put the speedi sleeve on the current one. I think now is the time to do that, but I dont know if I can do it myself, can I?

How well are yall cleaning your axles before you spray paint them? I am using my angle grinder with a wire wheel...as well as my drill with a smaller wire wheel. There are lots of little nooks that I cant really get clean. I seem to only be able to get the main open parts clean and down to metal. I was able to clean up the diff cover and spray it with some engine enamel. felt good to get something done other than sanding.

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You do realize that swapping all the parts over instead of just installing the speedy sleeve is a **** ton of excessive and unnecessary work right???

Martin
 
well, I struggle with that decision.

What if the speedi sleeve doesnt work? what about the ORD version of it?

What do you all think. Just rock the current axle with a sleeve or other fix? or swap over to the axle that doesnt leak?

I need to make up my mind. I can see advantages of both. But I fear that my skill level at this point may not be good enough to swap the locker and hubs over?
 
I have no clue about either one... You are going to learn something either way. If it was me, I'd do the one that would make me feel most secure about the situation. The peace of mind is worth whatever work you have to put in it in my opinion. Like Martin said, you might be doing uneccessary work, but do what you want or what you have the most confidence in doing. If you put enough time in it, you'll get either one to work fine I bet.
 
Those were mine previously. If I had kept them, I would swap hardware onto the spare axle. Its not that difficult, they are out of the truck which makes it easier, you learn how the 14 bolt is put together for future reference, you know its right before it goes in the truck.

The axle that is together worked fine, but had the seal issue. Truck landed on the rear wheels when it rolled/flipped hard enough to bend a wheel. If nothing else open it up and make sure its internals are in good shape while you have it out.
 
If someone could point me in the direction of a "how to" or atelast tell me what all I need to do to swap it all (locker, hubs, internals, etc) then I think I would feel more confident.

I am a good garage mechanic, when I have a "how to" I just dont trust myself enough to just start doing it without instruction.

I really think Chalet has the right idea....do it right now, while the truck is in the build stage. If i were already driving it, and the leak was stopping me, I might just go the sleeve route.

can anyone tell me where to look for whats involved?
 
When your ready let me know. I can do everything but the ring and pinion set up. Tear both axles to bare housing , we can do that. take the good housing with ring and pinion with locker to Inland Truck Parts. Buy a master install kit from them , let them install that with the parts you brought. Then we can put everything else on then bolt it up to your truck.
 
Master install kit should be around 175 , all new bearings , shims and seals. Most shops are around 100 an hour for labor , maybe someone will chime in on how long it should take.
 
Shouldn't need to set ring and pinion. 14 bolts have the little adjusting collars. Take the detroit out of the assembled axle. Remove carrier from new axle and make sure you count the turns on the collars and mark them. Install detroit in new carrier and put back in new axle. Retighten adjusting collars to where they were and it should be good to go.

Search detroit install on here. Lots of good info.
 
What do you have against the speedy sleeve??? That is how a truck shop would fix it.

Martin
 
i dont really have anything against it, i just keep reading about alot of people who have tried it, and it hasnt completely stopped the leak.

I guess I could try it, while the axle is off, and on blocks. But how will I be able to test if it works without installing it?
 
dieselndixie said:
If someone could point me in the direction of a "how to" or atelast tell me what all I need to do to swap it all (locker, hubs, internals, etc) then I think I would feel more confident.

I am a good garage mechanic, when I have a "how to" I just dont trust myself enough to just start doing it without instruction.

I really think Chalet has the right idea....do it right now, while the truck is in the build stage. If i were already driving it, and the leak was stopping me, I might just go the sleeve route.

can anyone tell me where to look for whats involved?
Click to expand...


For the low low price of one(1) detroit locker, i will do it for you.
 
dieselndixie said:
i dont really have anything against it, i just keep reading about alot of people who have tried it, and it hasnt completely stopped the leak.

I guess I could try it, while the axle is off, and on blocks. But how will I be able to test if it works without installing it?
Click to expand...

They are used every day. The design is much like what many factory front and rear main engine seals use. There is no reason not to use the speedy sleeve.

Martin
 
I'd use the speedy sleeve, the worst that can happen is you have to pull the axle again and swap internals. I'd give the easy fix a try before jumping into an unfamiliar install, especially on something as important as your axle. If you unwittingly mess something up and nuke that Detroit you aren't going to be a very happy camper... Just my .02.

If you can find someone who is familiar with 14b i'd say swap the housings, more because of the roll over than the leak...
 
Billavista has an overly thorough gear setup article on pirate that also just happens to be done on a 14 bolt. It's really not very hard. Doesn't get much easier than a 14 bolt.
 
you guys arent helping...now i just keep staring at them and changing my mind.

So, I have the sleeve, and I actually ordered the ORD alternative as well. Since I have read way too much about a damn sleeve, and couldnt decide. (now i have both)

I am going to try the ord seal. I am going to clean up and paint both axles. I figure...worst case I install the seal and get it all bolted up, and it still leaks. Then I atleast can swap axles knowing I have to. Either way, even if I swap axles later, I will be able to sell the one if I know the leak was fixed.
 
whats the best process to clean these axles up? power wash, wire wheel, hand wipe? leave diff cover on? anything?
 
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