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"Gredda's" Build / WTF / Help Me! Thread

I saw the lexan windows...thats an option...but that cost money. I have my windows already tinted...would cost me a tube of silicon, or maybe some other sealer. I have used Marine Goop on fish tanks before and it seems to hold up REALLY well.

what do I have to lose? the sliding windows with no weather stripping in them arent of much use. most of the weather stripping kits that I have seen that seem to work are $100+
 
dieselndixie said:
I saw the lexan windows...thats an option...but that cost money. I have my windows already tinted...would cost me a tube of silicon, or maybe some other sealer. I have used Marine Goop on fish tanks before and it seems to hold up REALLY well.

what do I have to lose? the sliding windows with no weather stripping in them arent of much use. most of the weather stripping kits that I have seen that seem to work are $100+
Click to expand...

I know where you can get a Chalet camper for around 6 bills.
 
Didn't you just bedline the whole floor? Why worry about it leaking then?

Anything that gets past the original seals will be minimal, not enough to be concerned with. I know because my top goes on in the winter and very little (if any) water comes in from the side windows. Hard rain or snow/ice build up on the side windows barely gets in at all. I see more water coming in through the top of the tailgate glass and dripping on the floor than anywhere else.
 
Wednesday we can drive down and get those windows. Sorry I've been so busy I forgot about that.
 
no worries cherry, mine are tinted and in perfect condition, i may just try to seal em up and use them. isnt one of yours cracked? who knows, i may end up with one solid, and one sliding ;)

I worry more about wind noise than just rain...I removed the stripping from one of the windows when I thought I was replacing it, so it has nothing now. (again, not talking about the stripping that goes around the window...talking about the "sliding" area stuff)

jimmy77 - no chalet for me...im out of space as it is!
 
You stripped the interior and you are worried about wind noise???

Martin
 
Sounds like a good idea to just leave them with no seals to you? I assume you meant to be helpful.

The wind will whistle and add to the noise. Plus if wind can make it through, so can water, cold air when camping, etc. I will just go with my original idea and seal them up.
 
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thanks for looking out....but you have done enough damage :haha:

I still dont have the axles or lift done....still wrapping up the interior. Just not enough room in my garage to move around, and its too damn hot in there to work. Do I need to list all of my other excuses....im lame

anyway, its coming...Im doing little things like bolting seats back in, put all new seals on the top, got new bolts for the top, still need to seal up the windows.

im starting to think my occasional idle stumble, and SUPER powerful gas smell could be an exhaust leak maybe? what are the symptoms of a leak, and whats the best way to check?
 
small update....interior is going back in easily.

I have started to attack the leaving seal on the 14bff that is still waiting to be installed. It leaks on my flloor out of the left wheel hub.

So, I have the speedi sleeve, what do I do? dont assume I know too much...i am learning this all as i go.

here is where I am at...

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how do they come off? I assume you remove the outer cap/shaft (6 bolts) pull the shaft out, and then does the wheel drum just pull off?
 
That should pull off now, it's likely the shoes are grabbing a ridge in the drums though. You should be thinking of swapping to disc brakes at this point...

Rene
 
hmmm, 2 things then...

gimme your best link on a good disk brake write up. something that i can see everything it needs, and decide if I can swing it. cost estimate is needed at this point.

other thing, what else should I do to try and get this off?
 
Pop the little rubber plug out of the backing plate and de-adjust the shoes and the drum will slide off. Just watch the toes!

As for the rear disc cost plays highly into if you need/want and e-brake.

The brackets from Kurt bolt right on: $67
Front rotors from ~79 3/4 ton Pickup: ~$40 each
If you DON'T need a standard e-brake front calipers from a ~79 3/4 ton will work: ~$18-80 depending on brand via O'Reilly
Two Hoses to calipers: $12 for rubber, 40-50 for stainless

If you need the regular e-brake you need eldorado rear calipers from 76-78 (I think... but there are a ton of write ups on here) but they're pricey anymore

Last option is a driveline brake like Tom Woods or High Angle Driveline sells: ~$300

Oh yeah, then add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line (not 100% necessary if you don't have hydroboost). ~$50

Worth it for serviceability, stopping power and if you need to replace the drums/shoes/hardware you'll have a pretty high price tag anyways.

Hope that helps. I'm finalizing mine now:thumb:
 
You have basically brand new brakes on that axle. Cheap, ready to run, and effective. Personally I'd run the drums and change to disc down the road if you feel the need. Why fix what's not broke?
 
yeah, thats a better route for this guy....my budget just got tighter...

now I am looking at the puddle under my Tcase, and the fact that I smell unburnt fuel when it runs (still havent tried to pass inspection yet)

all I can think about is wanting it lifted and running the big tires, and new axles...but I sure do think I have some "street ready" stuff I need to be working on first.

I am going to get that wheel drum off, put in the speedi sleeve,and then need to tackle the important stuff first and get her street legal
 
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