That would be my first guess as well.
CK5
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Griff's thread about nothing in particular.
- Thread starter The Griff
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That would be my first guess as well.
I thought that too, but, I just helped a buddy of mine replace a throwout bearing in his 93 K1500 with an NV3500, and it didnt sound anything like this.
His had a real high pitched rattley noise, this is very deep grumble.
Here's a rather shitty video, Planned on it being longer, but the camera thought otherwise, You can kind of hear the noise I'm talking about.
That bumping sound is the truck, there aren't any shocks on the back at the moment, I just aired the bags up and hoped for the best.
His had a real high pitched rattley noise, this is very deep grumble.
Here's a rather shitty video, Planned on it being longer, but the camera thought otherwise, You can kind of hear the noise I'm talking about.
That bumping sound is the truck, there aren't any shocks on the back at the moment, I just aired the bags up and hoped for the best.
You can hear it best at 16 seconds.
Back to the Chevy's, I had decided I'd just wait a bit until the right truck came along.
Well, less than a hour after I said that, I found myself on CL, And found an 86 Silverado K10, listed for $4000, For some reason I decided to call it.
The guy is selling it for his GF, they are going down to one car and don't need the truck anymore, and he knows nothing about this truck, I had to tell him it as a long bed, that it was 4wd, and it was a V8.
Heres the worrying part, he said there is "some issue" with the truck, as there was coolant in the exhaust,
But, he said that a mechanic replaced "A gasket" and it was fixed, but now it's starting to come back.
He tells me that he just put $4000 on there as a general number, I told him that may be a tad optimistic, Then he tells me that basically they just need to pay off what she owes on it.
Unfortunately he wouldn't tell me what she owes on it, But assuming its like $400, I'd be hard pressed not to just give him $600. And, I'll tell him it needs head gaskets, which it very well could.
Well, less than a hour after I said that, I found myself on CL, And found an 86 Silverado K10, listed for $4000, For some reason I decided to call it.
The guy is selling it for his GF, they are going down to one car and don't need the truck anymore, and he knows nothing about this truck, I had to tell him it as a long bed, that it was 4wd, and it was a V8.
Heres the worrying part, he said there is "some issue" with the truck, as there was coolant in the exhaust,
But, he said that a mechanic replaced "A gasket" and it was fixed, but now it's starting to come back.
He tells me that he just put $4000 on there as a general number, I told him that may be a tad optimistic, Then he tells me that basically they just need to pay off what she owes on it.
Unfortunately he wouldn't tell me what she owes on it, But assuming its like $400, I'd be hard pressed not to just give him $600. And, I'll tell him it needs head gaskets, which it very well could.
Not a K20.
Martin
Martin
If it wasn't 900 miles away, I'd consider it.
And yeah, I know its not a K20, but there's no reason I can't throw a full float 14 and some more springs under it.
And yeah, I know its not a K20, but there's no reason I can't throw a full float 14 and some more springs under it.
Ok, time for a vehicle not yet mentioned in this thread, my 95 Half ton 4wd Dodge.
After a 3 inch lift, I noticed the factory track bar wasn't really enjoying life,and had kicked the front axle about 1/2 an inch to the driver's side.
I figured it wasn't a big deal, hopped on Summit, ordered a new adjustable one. But now I can't get the old one off to save my life.
Theres a bolt on the axle side, and a ball joint on the frame side. Everyone said that the bolt on the axle side is a bitch, My impact made short work of it.
Now the ball joint will not budge, I've tried small hammers, large hammers, BFH's, Air hammers, 3 different pickle forks, (2 of which broke) 3 different pitman arm pullers, my own break loose juice and the fire wrench. None of which had any affect, (besides the pickle forks ruining the grease boot)
Any ideas?
After a 3 inch lift, I noticed the factory track bar wasn't really enjoying life,and had kicked the front axle about 1/2 an inch to the driver's side.
I figured it wasn't a big deal, hopped on Summit, ordered a new adjustable one. But now I can't get the old one off to save my life.
Theres a bolt on the axle side, and a ball joint on the frame side. Everyone said that the bolt on the axle side is a bitch, My impact made short work of it.
Now the ball joint will not budge, I've tried small hammers, large hammers, BFH's, Air hammers, 3 different pickle forks, (2 of which broke) 3 different pitman arm pullers, my own break loose juice and the fire wrench. None of which had any affect, (besides the pickle forks ruining the grease boot)
Any ideas?
Have tried, have failed.
I don't want to get the little ear on the frame red hot, since that will weaken it, but that is quickly becoming my only remaining option.
I just came back inside from my last attempt, with my last remaining pickle fork and a 16 lb sledge, the pickle fork is in there far enough that I cant get it out, but it doesn't seem to have done anything else.
I don't want to get the little ear on the frame red hot, since that will weaken it, but that is quickly becoming my only remaining option.
I just came back inside from my last attempt, with my last remaining pickle fork and a 16 lb sledge, the pickle fork is in there far enough that I cant get it out, but it doesn't seem to have done anything else.
It's possible if you can get at the ball joint stud and drill into it,it will help "shrink" the taper on the stud and let it come free..
I've seen my friend have to heat up a steering knuckle till its orange before a stubborn ball joint finally came free..sometimes heating the knuckle and quenching it with water a few times helps it free up..
He's also used an air hammer on the stud to punch it out..
There are pickle forks that go on an air hammer that work pretty well,when the usual type fails..
I've seen my friend have to heat up a steering knuckle till its orange before a stubborn ball joint finally came free..sometimes heating the knuckle and quenching it with water a few times helps it free up..
He's also used an air hammer on the stud to punch it out..
There are pickle forks that go on an air hammer that work pretty well,when the usual type fails..
I might be able to drill it out with the air drill, all the others are too big, no hope of cutting it off, not enough room, between the diff and the tie rod.
I've heard of the air hammer pickle fork attachments, but I can't find anyone around here with one, and its over an hour drive down to Harbor Freight.
I've heard of the air hammer pickle fork attachments, but I can't find anyone around here with one, and its over an hour drive down to Harbor Freight.
Oh, just for the record, here's one of the $225 Crew cabs, 85 C30 Scottsdale, 350/4pd, It'll run off a bottle, but the clutch is stuck.
I would think any square body that runs,with a 4 spd,even a 2wd,is well worth $225 !..even in parts the tranny alone here would bring 200+..the rest of the stuff to convert an automatic over to a 4 spd (bellhousing,fly wheel pedals,colum,etc) are rather rare around here and would also fetch good money...
Well that crew cab is driving itself around under its own power now. New carb and a 5 gallon can in the bed. The clutch just started working (Thats all I was told) and now its happily putting around the farm.
Track bar is changed on the silver Dodge, went out there today, accidentally bumped the side of it with the pickle fork, and that somehow was jsut what it needed to drop off, and land on my face.
Track bar is changed on the silver Dodge, went out there today, accidentally bumped the side of it with the pickle fork, and that somehow was jsut what it needed to drop off, and land on my face.
