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GsxrMike's build thread...Frostbite 2011 Pictures are in!

GsxrMike

GsxrMike

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
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Location
Tonganoxie, KS
Well here it goes...

Some of you have seen lots of these pics as I have been posting with questions about this or that. Now I guess its time to start the ol' build thread! Tell me what you think. Anything I should change? I started with an '86 K5 blazer, mildly built 350 (haven't heard it run yet) but took of the intake manifold (edelbrock performer) to replace an intake bolt that had broke off and found it has a roller cam!:D MSD dizzy, I put in new plugs (NGK hot plugs stock gap), accel coil, accel cut to lenght wires. I hope the timing is real close because the drunken buddy that cut the wires didn't give much play! It also came with headers and dual exhaust with H pipe. I ran the casting numbers on the heads and found they were 1.94 intake, 1.5 exhaust.
The blazer didn't come with a drivetrain but had a 14BFF read 10B front with D44 hubs. Both open with 3.73s.:rolleyes: I bought an '85 M1008 that had 14Bff/4.56/Detroit and D44/4.56/Open, with a TH400/NP208 to swap in to my K5. I installed a shift kit for RV/Offroading with full valve body contol. The blazer also came with a DIY4X shackle flip with 64" (I think thats right?:confused:) rear springs and 52" front springs. He threw in a flat top knuckle that had been milled and drilled. I just ordered a 1" body lift, crossover steering, and zero rates for the front (sat a little lower in the front) from ORD and new body bushings from energy suspension parts.
So far I have sandblasted the frame and painted it with POR15 and rustoleum flat black top coat. Same with gas tank. I've started reassembling everything so here are some pics...

Frame after POR15...
12_24_07_180_1.jpg


Body hanging around after chasis removal (in my basement BTW)...
12_24_07_136.jpg


Here's the frame before I knew I was getting new axles...
frame_and_axles.jpg


Shot of the motor installed...
Motor_in_frame.jpg


Drivetrain coming together...
Frame_with_drive_train.jpg


I've done about 85% of this crap myself because the only guy that really likes doing this stuff is very busy (and married). Tell me what you think, what looks good? What needs changing? Thanks...

(BTW: I'm sure i've forgot some things so if you have questions ask.)
 
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Oh yeah...It also came with the rear disk brake conversion kit installed alreay! I'll just have to swap it over to the new axle. And the exhaust has dual flowmasters!
 
Well the plan for now is to get the body back on with new poly bushings and the 1" ORD body lift. I have to get the rear driveshaft cut down and the front drive shaft lengthened. I am going to run the bald 36" tires that came with it to get an idea of what I can fit. I hope I can go with 38.5x11x16 boggers. Once I get my tires I am going to make some custom bump stops and trim the body where nesassary. The body isn't to bad. I'm going to clean up the bottom and paint the bottom before I put the body back on and then once I get it running I am going to rhino line the inside. The idea is a mud truck that will do good on the trails. I got the exhaust put on tonight. I will post pictures tomorrow.
 
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get yourself some of them ford shock towers to utilize the front springs longer "stroke"
 
you could get them at a junkyard or from the ford dealer. super duty shock towers work too i think. im not positive on the super duty shock towers though.
 
More Pics...

Here is the exhaust I put in last night.
Exhaust1.jpg


I wrapped the exhaust right here to try to keep heat away from the fuel pump and filter.
Exhaust_Wrap.jpg


Here is the drain plug I made in my tranny pan using a 1/2"x20 nut and bolt. I welded the nut in place and used some PC-7 on top of that for insurance and a smooth look and then installed a nylon washer between the nut and bolt. I slapped on a coat of POR15 to finish it up.
Drain_Plug.jpg
 
Kinda looks that way in the picture but it should clear fine. If not I will hit it with a sledge a couple of times. Yeah they are flowmasters. Thanks for the comment!
 
ahhh u dont want to dent up your new exhaust pipes! what about shortening the hangers if it contacts the driveshaft? that way it will tuck up higher.
 
More pics...

I had to fix a body mount bolt hole because the square nut came loose when we took the body off and I had to cut the bolt. Here are a few pics of the process>

This is the area I removed>
Body_mount_cut_out.jpg


Here is the plate I cut to size and welded a nut to>
Plate_with_nut_welded.jpg


Here is the plate after I welded it in and sprayed it with primer>
New_mount_2.jpg


I would have made it a little prettier but I HATE welding and grinding upside down and nobody is ever going to see it anyway. Except now I guess...:rolleyes:
 
More progress...

Well my buddy got a chance to come over and help tonight so we pulled the 6.2 diesel and the axles out of my M1008 parts truck. The axles are going under my blazer and the diesel is going in his '91 K1500.
K30_Gutted_3.jpg


And I talked to ORD today and found out my parts that were supposed to be here today or tomorrow won't even ship 'till the end of the week...:mad:
 
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About the tranny drain. Are you building a skid plate under it? Looks like something to hang up and rip the pan open.
 
ktmoutfront said:
About the tranny drain. Are you building a skid plate under it? Looks like something to hang up and rip the pan open.
Click to expand...

Yeah I though about that before I did it. I put it towards the back of the pan so it is kinda tucked up under the crossmember.
 
I have always used a 3/8 plug on the back vertical edge of the pan. It gets enough fluid out to remove the pan without it running all all over.
 
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