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Half door half done...

chevyfumes

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Now that the cutting is done, how bout you guy's critique it abit...LMAO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifThese will be for mall parking lot cruising...Anything anyone would have done differently or would do now that I have cut it to make it better...?
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I think it looks great!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Im by far no expert,but it looks good to me!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
Two comments:

One, that's a strong kid /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif A little photo-editing to remove the 2x4's holding up the bottom and he'll look like Superman!

Two, why keep the upper bit, along the windshield. Looks? I'm gonna do a set of these for my '74 one of these years, and I'm still thinking about cut lines.

OK, three comments: Whatcha gonna do for mirrors?

-- A
 
Looks good. Post up some pics when they are all finished and put on!
 
They won't even have cameras by then, it'll be all virtual reality... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
Yeah, post a similar pic when they're done ... I'm curious how the horizontal line will compare to the seat level and how much foot room there'll be.

Like the thread now about boatsiding and how to get into the truck, I'll be curious to see how much room these cutout doors afford folks trying to get in or out /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

-- A
 
oh and hey, fumes, whatcha gonna do for the latch mechanism? I was just gonna remove the striker and put a bolt through a little panel there... bolt it into place, essentially. You gonna do some sort of opening mechanism?

-- A
 
I removed the lock and kept the latch so if someone can't hop in they can still open the door and that will also be how that side will mount to the truck, there will be some kind of lever on the inside, as far as the seats, you should just see about 3" under the bottom of the seat,I was gonna go lower but thats what stoped me...
 
oh oh and one more Q...

you gonna leave the aft side the same height it is now, or lower it to the level of the bedrails?

IIRC, the doors stick up a bit past the bedrail, and it might look better evened out. Or might not. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

-- A
 
Wow , I was gonna leave it but now that you mention it,I may cut it down.... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
is there a way to make a quick relase system fo our doors(like a jeep set up)? just so its not such a pita to take the doors on and off?
 
If you want quick removable doors you can modify the hinges to accept pull pins. Not too hard to do. I used 3/8" x 6" stainless steel pins for mine.

It's really quite simple to retain the door latching mechanism. There is a rod that goes from the latch mechanism toward the front of the truck. It is the one that use to attach to the inside door opener. Use this rod to attach to some type of handle that sticks through the sheet metal you weld in. Now when you pull that handle forward it pops the door. I used a couple of column gear shift knobs for pull handles. Worked out really nice.
 
Ooh, good tip on the latch mechanism. I suppose if I do it pretty close to the cut, it won't interfere with people getting in and out -- I'd figgered it would get caught on people as they went by. I saw a couple at BB03 that I like -- somebody had 1/4" or 3/8" Craftsmen box wrenches as their pull levers, I liked that /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I've already done the quick-release thing, but since we're talking about it I rememberd I had some photos /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I suppose I should do a tech writeup, but it is really quite easy.

I removed the factory pin, and kept the bushings. The new pins are the 1/4" rod you mention -- I used regular steel and painted it. I welded a fender washer on one end, and drilled a hole through the end for a hitch pin in the other.

Pix:

Washer:
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Hitch pin:
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End result:

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I had to put the lower hinges in "upside down", i.e. with the washer facing up and hitch pin down to make it fit... but now I can yank the doors in like 2 minutes and not lose my alignment.

Mind you, they're freakin' heavy... which is one of the reasons I wanna switch to the half doors. That, and with suitably limber people and appropriately cut doors, I may never have to open them /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

-- A
 
If you keep the uppers you cna build a frame that would snap into the door and make a window that snaps to the body. That's how I was going to do it but just never got around to it.
 
Here are my half doors. I used a generic Freightliner door handle mounted flush, you can see in the first pic. I took some stock door pins and ground the splines off then drilled holes on teh one end for a cotter pin for quick change door pins so I can put my stockers back on anytime with ease.
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The only thing I did different with my quick pins for the door hinges was ditch the factory bushings and weld in some 3/8" inside diameter busing stock. The male half of the hinge I used 3" or so and the female side I used small 1/4" thick slices of the bushing stock. This way you have alot of bearing surface for the pin to ride against. Won't ever wear out. Keeping the factory bushings was good. At least they are easily replaced.
 
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