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heater/waterpump/coolant/ everything

yup, shop vac the heck out of it.. than lay some paper towels in the lifter valley with a couple rags laying on top to keep any more crud from getting in there when your doing the head gasket...
 
With 102k miles, if that is in fact the ACTUAL mileage, I wouldn't think there'd be that much caked, burnt oil in there. my original had 225 when I tore it apart due to a leaky head gasket and it was so full of carboned oil, I just yanked the whole engine and had it totally rebuilt.

I probably would have done a basic compression test on the cylinders just to get an idea as to what they're doing.
 
I thought the amount of caked oil I saw in my 305 was just from someone that never changed the oil. Incorrect? Does this happen even with regular oil changes?
 
yup, what he said..

be a pisser, pun intended, to go thru the hassle of head gaskets, when it was a crack all along that facilitated it..

not to mention, tho you didn't mention it, if overheated and tweaked the surface, that is a major cause of a leaking head gasket often, ESPECIALLY on SB's....


make sure the system is drained from the block hole I previously mentioned on that side of the motor, so there is NO AF in that side, BEFORE you pull that head.. and carefully inspect the gasket area where it was leaking to see possible fail causes, simple gasket blowout, corrosion, etc..
 
dyeager535 said:
I thought the amount of caked oil I saw in my 305 was just from someone that never changed the oil. Incorrect? Does this happen even with regular oil changes?
Click to expand...


no oil changes, well, infrequent we'll say... you should have seen the lease motors at the dealer my buddy used to work for..

pull the vc, and you would just have enough room for the valvetrain to move.. literally... :eek1: like 80, 90 g's with no changes..
 
just called the machine shop, they don't do magnaflux they do a pressure test and
then they will resurface them, $90 total. and only open M-F 8am-5pm
 
I would just have em check for cracks, deck em, clean the seats up real quick and new valve seals.....
 
any advice on getting the heads off? theres a bracket holding the head on by firewall and I cant get to the bolts.
 
Those brackets are hard to get to, but not impossible with an end wrench. I think the brackets are just bolted to the heads though, and not retaining them to the block.

Remember too the gaskets will be holding those heads on with some good tension. You may need to pry on them a bit to get them off.

http://carleynet.net/familypictures/view_album.php?set_albumName=album74&page=1

Good luck,
Clay
 
what would you use to pry on them? by myself aint the strongest person.. and don't want to use full leg strength for it to pop off and me fly out of the truck...
 
put a hammer handle, etc in an exhaust/intake port and pop it up.. it has 2 locating dowels to keep it from sliding around on the surface...

and as mentioned, that bracket is just bolted to the head, you can take it off after the head is off...


did you drain the block?
 
ryoken said:
put a hammer handle, etc in an exhaust/intake port and pop it up.. it has 2 locating dowels to keep it from sliding around on the surface...

and as mentioned, that bracket is just bolted to the head, you can take it off after the head is off...


did you drain the block?
Click to expand...

your very fond of me draining this block! yes as I did right after you told me too. (don't worry I listen) okay I was pulling it the opposite direction. thanks guys!
 
it makes it easier to check the offending head gasket and not fill the cylinders with AF...

you need to pop it straight off the surface..
 
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