mine go right in from the bottom no issue, but I have no tcase brace.
CK5
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Hedman Elite Header Review
- Thread starter Cricket
- Start date
41565chevelle
1/2 ton status
I just picked up my 69830's. They went in nice and tight. Got a buddy making the crossover nice and tight. Will post progress as it goes.
41565chevelle
1/2 ton status
Another shot...
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
That looks really nice!
41565chevelle
1/2 ton status
Thanks, getting the 2 into 1 collector faber up by a buddy. Also you can see in the 1st pic the tube has been turned to make room for the 700R linkage.
Very nice!!
Anyone else have a problem on your Headman Elites where over time your ball and socket collectors keep coming loose. Now I've tightened mine over and over again to the point of bottoming out. Now I have a bad exhaust leak.
Mine are about there. Screw double nuts, buy a bunch of the right bolts, and tack weld the nuts in place.
I think *most* header leakage problems are the result of the motor moving too much, and/or the exhaust not being supported properly, at least for leaks in that area. The frame flex on these trucks doesn't help either. I fought the loose collector problem for quite some time, tack welding the nuts seemed to fix it though.
I think *most* header leakage problems are the result of the motor moving too much, and/or the exhaust not being supported properly, at least for leaks in that area. The frame flex on these trucks doesn't help either. I fought the loose collector problem for quite some time, tack welding the nuts seemed to fix it though.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Every set of Hedmans I've ever had, the supplied bolts ALWAYS work loose fairly quickly. And double-nutting them has ALWAYS fixed it, but maybe I've just been lucky.
The double nuts didn't work...
So how should I fix this? A new collectors on the exhaust side? New headers? Weld the **** out of it?
So how should I fix this? A new collectors on the exhaust side? New headers? Weld the **** out of it?
I wonder if serrated flange nuts and bolts would work. I haven't tried them on exhaust but they seem to work well in other places.
Or for the ultimate lock, I use the metal pinch lock nuts.
Maybe try using the springs like the factory setup uses.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Stage 8, done.
Its too late now as I can't get them to seal anymore.
Exhaust shop should be able to flare you up a couple and weld them on for a decent price. One would think anyway. That way they can custom flare them for a good fit.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
New quality female sides and Stage 8. It looks like you stretched them over the collector.
You can buy the specific flares you need (probably on summit) or as mentioned, shop can probably make them too.
Grade 8 stuff won't hold either. It's not a clamping issue, you can't tighten them enough without "expanding" the flared section. You have to get them tight, and lock the bolts in place, and then try your best to make sure the motor in relation to the exhaust pipes moves as little as possible.
Seriously considering running a section of flex pipe just to eliminate any chance of this problem when I re-do the exhaust.
It isn't an inherent problem with the ball/socket, the flat flange setups have sealing issues for the same reason(s).
Grade 8 stuff won't hold either. It's not a clamping issue, you can't tighten them enough without "expanding" the flared section. You have to get them tight, and lock the bolts in place, and then try your best to make sure the motor in relation to the exhaust pipes moves as little as possible.
Seriously considering running a section of flex pipe just to eliminate any chance of this problem when I re-do the exhaust.
It isn't an inherent problem with the ball/socket, the flat flange setups have sealing issues for the same reason(s).
