Have you got room alongside the EZ for a bit? You can drill small holes around the EZ and get it out.
CK5
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Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp! D60 broken stud
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
Have you got room alongside the EZ for a bit? You can drill small holes around the EZ and get it out.
I have also had luck bashing it with a heavy centerpoint that you don't care about too much and are willing to re-sharpen. Big hammer and fracture the EZ out and extract pieces. Same with taps but taps are generally easier due to being thinner in the web area, as well as harder.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah thats how i get broken taps out at work when its a blind hole. Just get some good pointed center punches and work them with a big hammer. That ez out will fracture at some point.
Yeah, I remembered the same thing after I posted. EZ outs and taps are brittle. I bought one of those tap removers and have had good luck with it, so its been a while since I had to break one out.
I also own a set of left hand taps and some grade 8 left hand bolts. So, instead of an EZ out, I drill and tap the broken stud or bolt to the largest size bolt that will fit.
Plus I drip some freon or other cryogenic fluid in the hole to freeze the offending part just before threading the bolt in.
The screw in EZs are stronger than the fluted types, but they tend to expand the part as they grip.
A threaded bolt does not, plus its "tougher" than a super hard EZ.
In this case, its not much help, since its a lot of prep for a one off event.
I also own a set of left hand taps and some grade 8 left hand bolts. So, instead of an EZ out, I drill and tap the broken stud or bolt to the largest size bolt that will fit.
Plus I drip some freon or other cryogenic fluid in the hole to freeze the offending part just before threading the bolt in.
The screw in EZs are stronger than the fluted types, but they tend to expand the part as they grip.
A threaded bolt does not, plus its "tougher" than a super hard EZ.
In this case, its not much help, since its a lot of prep for a one off event.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Exactly. I mentioned going the left hand route early on as its better then an ez out but its more of an adventure than its really worth unless you have a machine shop at your disposal. Id be hell bent on pulling the axle and getting a bucks drill situated for this problem. Im a bigger fan of removing material and helicoiling or bumping up to the next size thread for these situations. Ive always found its faster then trying to back something out that had a lot of torque on it at one time. You can see the stud failed long ago by the picture. Its rust vs fresh metal features tells me its not going to back out anytime soon. I recently went through this with kingpin studs on my dana 60. They were essentially fused in because they were so old, rusted and beat on then painted over but i had the benefit of having the stud sticking out.
Getting a hard, sheered off material out of a blind hole is the worse.
I use my cutting torch on broken off E-Z outs and taps,they blow away like a sparkler before the surrounding metal will melt..often it is the only tool you can get near the busted tool!..
A late friend of mine used to work at Midas Muffler--he got so proficient with the torch he could snap off all the studs on a y-pipe and use the torch to blow them right through the other side,then run a tap through the threads..
I've never been that good with a torch--usually if I try doing that or blowing a busted stud or bolt out of a blind hole,I end up melting the torch tip and ruin it..
A late friend of mine used to work at Midas Muffler--he got so proficient with the torch he could snap off all the studs on a y-pipe and use the torch to blow them right through the other side,then run a tap through the threads..
I've never been that good with a torch--usually if I try doing that or blowing a busted stud or bolt out of a blind hole,I end up melting the torch tip and ruin it..
Try and find my D60 housing repair thread. It has the fixture jig I machined to repair this exact problem.
I remember that one, great thread!
I have had decent luck with EZ outs, but like any other method I think that patience and the proper technique and prepping is critically important. The one thing I have found with EZ outs is you have to drill completely through to the bottom of the bolt and as big as possible. This seems to relieve some of the tension on the bolt. Not surprised that an EZ out that only required a 1/4" hole snapped off. Thinking the one in my toolbox that has been used in the past uses around a 7/16" drill bit.
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
Canned air/computer duster is actually liquid gasses(fluorocarbons). If you turn it upside down it will spray the liquid out... and its around -60*F. Good for getting those easy dents out.
Sorry for the hijack, nothing of value to add to the thread
Winning Bitches!!!!!!!
WOOT Effing WOOT!
Good for drilling out the EZout and stud!! Real good
New BIG EZout
Got lucky that the EZout went in without drilling anymore and that the broken EZout was far enough down. Can you imagine the dance I busted out with when it came out 
WOOT Effing WOOT!
Good for drilling out the EZout and stud!! Real good
New BIG EZout
Got lucky that the EZout went in without drilling anymore and that the broken EZout was far enough down. Can you imagine the dance I busted out with when it came out 
Die grinded a couple extra nuts with those carbide bits so they fit around the stud shanks.
Not sure how much this helps but figured it couldn't hurt.
And the proper 5* shim to match the 5* cut zero rate underneath
Oh, and I welded the shim to the U-bolt plate. Looks bitchin! (I notched the shim so it goes around the center pin, so this isn't it's final position)
Not sure how much this helps but figured it couldn't hurt.
And the proper 5* shim to match the 5* cut zero rate underneath
Oh, and I welded the shim to the U-bolt plate. Looks bitchin! (I notched the shim so it goes around the center pin, so this isn't it's final position)
so you welded reg steel to cast iron top plate ( if still oem )
this not good . shims should always be captured by the center pin .
this not good . shims should always be captured by the center pin .
Stomis
Professional Amateur
If you look across the axle he appears to have bent plate steel u bolt plates. Its like one of those quizzes where they show you a picture and you have to pick out the little detail that changed
Stoked for you Brent!
ahahaha
yes, they are one of the vendors plates, can't remember. All seems to fit real nice. I didn't want to drill a hole in the shim because of my offset pin. It would be in the far back where the shim is thickest. Plus, the nut wont sit flat on the shim since it's tapered. So I notched the shim to fit tightly around the pin, and it does, then welded it to the plate. It was the best thing I could think of.
I also radius ground the shim on the thick side. It was almost a dead corner and I didn't like that biting into the main leaf, so I ground it like my ZeroRates look.
yes, they are one of the vendors plates, can't remember. All seems to fit real nice. I didn't want to drill a hole in the shim because of my offset pin. It would be in the far back where the shim is thickest. Plus, the nut wont sit flat on the shim since it's tapered. So I notched the shim to fit tightly around the pin, and it does, then welded it to the plate. It was the best thing I could think of.
I also radius ground the shim on the thick side. It was almost a dead corner and I didn't like that biting into the main leaf, so I ground it like my ZeroRates look.
I know this thread is a few years old, but I’m wanting to do the u bolt instead, however I’m having a hard time finding the 5/8 x 4.5 x 11.5 u bolt that was mentioned earlier in this thread. Does anyone have a link where I can buy one of those?
Most spring shops around here make U-bolts rather than stock so many,there are so many different lengths and widths needed..
If you could get an application for one that will be the right size for your needs perhaps you could get one from a dealer or spring shop..
There are online sources that can make custom spring U-bolts ..
If you could get an application for one that will be the right size for your needs perhaps you could get one from a dealer or spring shop..
There are online sources that can make custom spring U-bolts ..
Thanks, now thinking about it, it should be the same size as the other u bolt on the passenger side, so i’m think ORD or DIY should have it too
Actually, just went and looked at it and ORD/DIY sells one that is 4" wide, and I think for sure you'd need the 4.5" wide. So I'll need to keep looking around for one
