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Help me get my 6.2 running

I would not do that until you get it to start...taking the injectors off will let the whole fuel system get airbound again...most likely it just needs the glow plugs activated,maybe some are dead or shorted...most 6.2's wont start even in mild weather if you dont have at least 4 or more glow plugs working--in colder weather all 8 ,preferably..

When I first got my diesel pickup it was all butchered as far as the fuel lines to the dual tanks--I had to resort to using a small gas tank (aka bleach bottle!) and I put the fuel line and return line in the bottle (under the fuel,submerged),and it took a long time and several attempts before it showed any signs of wanting to fire up...

I killed the batteries 3 times and though I warn everyone NOT to use starting fluid--by day 3 I was ready to pull the diesel out and put in a 350 I had--I didn't energize the glow plugs,and had someone crank it over while I sprayed the ether in the intake...it fired up and ran,and once it ran about 10 seconds,it kept running..

Starting fluid use is risky--even if you do not energize the glow plugs,it can still do internal damage to pistons,rods,and valves...never use any if you had the glow plugs "on",it'll be sure to pre-ignite...wait at least 10 minutes if they were on..

I'm not telling you to use ether,but I'd try it as a last resort,before pulling anything off it or apart..first I'd make sure the glow plugs are working ..
 
Well here is what I found after I bled the fuel system... There were four fuel lines unhooked from the injectors, hooked them back up, tightened them and then did not bleed the fuel system again. Then tried cranking it. What's the best and easiest way you think to see if the glow plugs are working? And how long can I continuously crank the engine before needing to let the starter cool off because I don't want to F up this new starter that I just dropped 180 on.
 
was there fuel coming out of them 4 injector lines, usely when i bleed a diesel engine. i slacken the most easly placed injector line. and turn engine over until fuel drips out of the lines. then tighten up lines and try to start. ether is not the best way but it works, if you do use ether its better to have a helper. do not use glow plugs. one guy turns engine over,(a 6.2 has to turn fast to start well)and when its turning you spray a few second mist of ether. to much ether can lock up engine then you have to wait. best way i use for glow plugs is removing them,and hooking them one by one on battery. you see them turn red don,t hold them to long they will burn. about 1/4 inch of red is a sure sign they are good. now removing glow plugs can be dangerous,they can break. but if you do get them out ,you want to put antisieze on treads. good luck!
 
76k5blazerr said:
Well here is what I found after I bled the fuel system... There were four fuel lines unhooked from the injectors, hooked them back up, tightened them and then did not bleed the fuel system again. Then tried cranking it. What's the best and easiest way you think to see if the glow plugs are working? And how long can I continuously crank the engine before needing to let the starter cool off because I don't want to F up this new starter that I just dropped 180 on.
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I wouldn't touch the injectors yet, for the same reasons already posted. First make sure that there is fuel leaking out of several loose lines before assuming you have all the air out. Also, the amount of fuel leaving the IP is a function of accelerator position. The starting instructions for my truck (when properly primed) say to hold half throttle when temperature is warm and to floor it when it's cold out. It's hard to start these engines if you're not holding the pedal down. It's even harder to drive the air out when you aren't moving much fuel. At least, that's how it seemed to work when I put my engine back together (all lines dry at that point).

And check the glow plugs. Check the glow plugs. You should prolly check the glow plugs while you're in there. Disconnect each one from the wiring harness and hold an ohmmeter between the spade lug and ground. If you read zero or any large number that plug is no good. If you read some small resistance value (we'll say <5 ohms just for argument's sake), that plug is working. It may not be putting out as much heat as you would want, but you don't need great plugs to start on a warm day. You do, however, need to have multiple working plugs. One hot cylinder is not going to get the engine running. Although my old set of plugs in my K10 can start on what sounds like 3 or 4 cylinders when the temperature is near zero. :doah:

Getting the plugs to work correctly really can make the difference between a completely dead engine and a thundering powerhouse. So don't start messing with injectors until you are really confident that the plugs are working properly. Oh yeah, the plugs like to swell and break off over time. So you may find broken stubs if you remove your plugs. Not necessarily a problem, but definitely annoying.


You get the proper starter brace on? That's one thing you can do to protect that new starter. :whistle:
 
Yeah I do have that starter brace. There also was fuel leaking out of the loose injector lines. I have not pulled any injectors yet so I geuss I'll get all the fuel lines put back on and tightened down then check the glow plugs and start over, yall think I should use starting fluid? I really want to get this motor running but do not want to damage it. And if I do use it, what do you do just spray it in the intake? Do you have to get some in each passage of the intake manifold or just give it a shot right down the middle?
 
It's best to have two people if you try using starting fluid...do NOT activate the glow plugs either!..

Have one person crank it over,get it spinning full tilt,then spray some fluid into the intake manifold ,with the air cleaner off--its a big hole.just try not to "miss" and spray any elsewhere,where it might flare up and start a fire if it spits back on you..you only need like a 2 second "spray" to get it to fire..any more will just increase the danger of fire or harming parts..

Dont try using ether alone if you can avoid it--trying to spray it in the intake ,then climb into the cab and trying to crank it will just make the engine want to kick back,and bind up,and it'll do its best to break the starter drive (or the bolts off in the block),or numerous other "bad" things..

The fact you had fuel coming out of the injector lines is a good sign,it means the fuel pump and injector pump are working...if the "hoses" that were not connected were the rubber ones that go from injector to injector,those are fuel return lines..you'll want all of those on!..air may have been sucked in if any of those were not connected,and you may need to repeat the bleeding process..
 
Well I geuss what I'll do is reconnect all the fuel lines and check all the glow plugs and if I verify they are working, I'll re-bleed the fuel system and try to start it again. Whether I use ether or not depends on how pissed off I get... I'll try not to use it. Thanks guys
 
i suppose ether could auto ignite earler than fuel . i had a buddy of mine who had a 86 3/4 ton 6.2. this is maybe 12 years ago. he couldn,t afford 8 glow plugs,i think there was only 3 good ones. he ran that truck for at least 4 months starting it on ether only. then he sold truck to one of his coworkers. and he installed the motor in his better truck,which was still running up to 5 years ago with glow plugs working. lost track of truck after that. i must of changed a dozen 6.2 in different trucks,and on a few occasion started them with ether. if damage does happen its probably the engines not really heallty in the first place.
 
Pffffff.....

Get a fresh can of starting fluid. Have someone crank it over, spray for 2 seconds, then off for 3 seconds. Go through that 5 second cycle until it starts to run on starting fluid, then just spray enough to keep the rpms between 1000-2000rpm. It will either pick up diesel and start running on it's own or if it won't after you've gone through a full can, you have bigger issues than just air in the system.

It's easy, I do it nearly once a week. Someone around here is always running a tractor out of fuel, too cold, fuel filter change, etc. I always have starting fluid in my service truck. Saves all that time wasted bleeding stuff. I've either'd hundreds of different engines tons of times and I've never broke a piston, rod, head, whatever blah blah. I've never even had a glow plug light the fluid up either.
 
Well guys this truck is starting to piss me off. It won't freakin run. Glow plugs are working, at least some of them, it's got fuel, blows smoke trying to start but won't start. I even tried some either today and couldn't get any life out of it. Grrrrrrr. What yall thinking?
 
76k5blazerr said:
Well guys this truck is starting to piss me off. It won't freakin run. Glow plugs are working, at least some of them, it's got fuel, blows smoke trying to start but won't start. I even tried some either today and couldn't get any life out of it. Grrrrrrr. What yall thinking?
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If you're blowing smoke and still can't start, that sure sounds a lot like you're missing a few glow plugs. So I'll repeat my admonition:

2 or 3 plugs won't typically start a 6.2, even under optimum conditions. 4 or 5 is pushing it. So definitely, definitely, definitely check them. Even if the truck was known to be in good running condition, you won't get great starting performance by having "some of them" working. You need to have most of them working WELL before you can expect the truck to start.

How many plugs have you tested so far?
 
I know that atleast 2 are working, I'm gonna check all 8 as soon as I get time to throw a battery back in it, can I just turn the plugs on for 10 seconds then go in the motor and touch the exposed part of the plug and see if it's warm? That's what my neighbor said would be easiest.
 
76k5blazerr said:
I know that atleast 2 are working, I'm gonna check all 8 as soon as I get time to throw a battery back in it, can I just turn the plugs on for 10 seconds then go in the motor and touch the exposed part of the plug and see if it's warm? That's what my neighbor said would be easiest.
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That method may work, but it doesn't sound faster to me. The process of pulling the spade lug, touching the terminal with the ohmmeter, and reconnecting the spade lug takes about 5 seconds per plug. You'll know how well each plug is working (not just whether it gets slightly warm on the outside), and you don't have to wait until the battery is recharged.


But having 2 plugs working really won't get the engine running. I have been there, done that (even with the block heater running!), and gotten quite frustrated in the process.
 
Can you do this with a multimeter? They the same thing? Go over this process again, do I need to have the plugs on when checking them? Ohmmeters have the 2 positive and negative probes, which one goes where? Ect.
 
if checking resistance you dont want power to the plug just unplug it one lead to block one to spade terminal on glow plug and see what resistance you have. depends on type of meter you have if cheap style set at higher setting then go down if auto ranging meter keep an eye on decimal point:whistle:messed me up many times
 
Test light method is super easy and super quick. Alligator clip to positive on the battery...touch the tip of the test light to the GP spade. If it lights the test light you have a good GP.
 
campfire said:
If you're blowing smoke and still can't start, that sure sounds a lot like you're missing a few glow plugs. So I'll repeat my admonition:

2 or 3 plugs won't typically start a 6.2, even under optimum conditions. 4 or 5 is pushing it. So definitely, definitely, definitely check them. Even if the truck was known to be in good running condition, you won't get great starting performance by having "some of them" working. You need to have most of them working WELL before you can expect the truck to start.

How many plugs have you tested so far?
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This. And follow his instructions in post #55 to test each glow plug. I have a CUCV with the 24volt 6.2. I have logged many hours and killed many newcastles under the hood of my CUCV...
 
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