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Help me identify this axle

Some guy offered me a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts, 4.56 gears (what I want), and a Detroit locker for my D60.

It's tempting, but it's also a driver side drop, so I would still have to trade trannys.

I have another guy offering me a D60 out of an 89 Dodge 3/4 ton. And that's all I know about it.


Trade for the dodge axle, it'll swap in. Make sure it's a Dana 60, not a Dana 61. They're very similar, but have internal differences.
 
Some guy offered me a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts, 4.56 gears (what I want), and a Detroit locker for my D60.

It's tempting, but it's also a driver side drop, so I would still have to trade trannys.

I have another guy offering me a D60 out of an 89 Dodge 3/4 ton. And that's all I know about it.

I will trade you a low milage CUCV Dana 60 with 4.56 gears for your '78-'79 Ford Dana 60. I have several, Some with trac-loc and some open.
 
I have lots of options, I have a guy wanting to trade me a 241 for my 208, which would allow me to keep the 60 I have. Which is what would probably be best.

I discussed it with my wife and since the ending result will be about the same, I'm going to go ahead try to trade my 37's on 15" rims for a set 37's on 16.5" rims (military) and install both 3.73 axles to see how I like them then if I still want lower gear I will switch out the rear with the 4.56 14b that I already have sitting here and regear the front with the money I get from selling the 3.73 14b my original front and what ever else I can come up with.

That 44 would be nice but there has to be a reason he would be willing to trade it for this one.

Sorry if it seems like I'm rambling sometimes but it has been a long time since I have been able to do this stuff for fun. Now that I think about it I've just never had so many option, and I'm having to do a lot if learning on the fly to figure out how to make it all work.
 
Springs

By the way I measured those springs that came with the axles. The long ones are 66" eye to eye (along the spring) with the pin being offset (32/34), 60" eye to eye (straight across), and 15" from the bottom mounting surface to the floor (with them upside down).
*These measurement were taken with the springs not on a truck*

I don't have a clue where they came from, but I'm thinking it would be cool to move my front hanger (rear end) and move as far forward as possible. And mount my homemade shackle flip back against the rear bumper mount (maybe even shave it a little). That should give me a lot of extra travel in the rear. I just hope the driveshaft doesn't pull in two.
 
Sounds like you got the axles and suspension out of a solid axle swapped 88-98 truck. The springs are probably 63" rears from that style truck and explains the Chevy rear and Ford front.
 
Perhaps I should start my own build thread once the bolts start coming out of my rig. If I do what category should I (new free member) post it under? :dunno:

In the mean time I am going work on cleaning and repainting all of these axles and try to sell some XJ shafts that I picked up at the salvage yard (I will try to get more) on eBay to help fund this project. The last one I sold went quick, so hopefully these will too. I won't post a link so as not to get myself in trouble with the moderators on here, but they shouldn't be hard to find, I think I'm the only one offering to make them telescopic and repaint them before I ship them ;)

Mention CK5 and I will throw in the modifications (telescopic shaft), and paint free of charge.
 
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That's a $1200 axle stock,with gears and arms its worth more.Id sell it and get a chevy 60 front and use the left over cash for other parts.That axle is hard to find and I have people waitin on em.
 
That's a $1200 axle stock,with gears and arms its worth more.Id sell it and get a chevy 60 front and use the left over cash for other parts.That axle is hard to find and I have people waitin on em.

That's half of why I want to keep it, A: I know I will never find another one like it that I can afford to buy, B: With the way I drive I know I will never have to worry about breaking it. C: I know some day I will run across some rich guy with money to burn out on the trail who will make me an offer that I can't refuse and I will be buying a D44 and a winch, or walking home with a pocket full of money ready to start looking for a new project
 
That's half of why I want to keep it, A: I know I will never find another one like it that I can afford to buy, B: With the way I drive I know I will never have to worry about breaking it. C: I know some day I will run across some rich guy with money to burn out on the trail who will make me an offer that I can't refuse and I will be buying a D44 and a winch, or walking home with a pocket full of money ready to start looking for a new project

You can find a CUCV take out for $1000 ish and wouldn't have to change your case.Chances are if they are loaded and on the trails they already have one.
 
Chances are if they are loaded and on the trails they already have one.

You are probably right, but even if nobody ever offers me a dime, I'll still be a happy K5er with a nice set of axles.

We finally have a new off-road park (30+ miles of trails) near where I live so, I'm guessing there may be a few newcomer looking to start building their own rig. Since I live close to the Walmart home office, and several other mega corporations, I know there are a lot of wealthy executive types who like to spend big of their toys.

I happen to know from months of searching for parts for my K5, or any pre-1988 anything is getting very hard to come by no thanks to all the salvage yards crushing anything pre-2000, and the damned tweakers who have scrapped every piece of metal within 100 miles.

I know just how lucky I got getting this one for such a good deal.
It's sure better than seeing some dude with a big endless budget getting all the good deals, right?
 
What am I missing?

I'm trying to turn this steering arm around on this D60 but it doesn't want to come off and I don't want to be too rough with it.

I took off all of the nuts (one of the studs came out), but I can only get the steering arm to come up about 1/8". Is there something I am not seeing that's holding this thing on or should I just get after it and make it come off?

What is this newb doing wrong?
 
Why are you turning it around? The arm is installed correctly as is for standard, crossover steering.

Only turn it around if you're going to use reverse hi steer with a second arm.
 
Why are you turning it around? The arm is installed correctly as is for standard, crossover steering.

Only turn it around if you're going to use reverse hi steer with a second arm.

Good call! :thumb:
I thought it was supposed to stick out to the rear of the knuckle.
Perhaps I should have studied it a little closer. :doah:
Less work yay!

Since I'm already on the subject, I plan to make my own link out of an old tie rod out of the 'U pull it'. If anyone else has experience with this please advise. What is the minimum length I should search for? Or are there any that you know of that are already the right shape?

Do I need the whole steering gear box from a 2wd or just the pitman arm?
I think I read that you need the whole box because the 2wd arm doesn't fit the 4wd box. And what years should I look for? Just double checking.
 
Here she is.

All slicked up ready almost ready to install.
image-22.jpg
 
And the 14 bolt is starting to look better too.

image-23.jpg


The other 14b
image-25.jpg


60 before I painted it all
image-24.jpg
 
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