CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Help me identify this axle
- Thread starter AR_K5
- Start date
Yes they do
Ok I went out to look for some more numbers and this was all I came up with.
This is the number I posted last night.
Then there was this (322) on the back side.
This is where they apparently ground it out for the inverted u-bolts.
This was on the top of the axle tube but I can't make it out.
Here is the steering arm, isn't this backward for a Chevy?
I thought the are was supposed to stick out the back, then again I've never done crossover steering before.
Any useful info you guys can give me would be great.
Such as: Is this a reverse rotation axle?
Is there anything special that I need to know about this axle?
This is the number I posted last night.
Then there was this (322) on the back side.
This is where they apparently ground it out for the inverted u-bolts.
This was on the top of the axle tube but I can't make it out.
Here is the steering arm, isn't this backward for a Chevy?
I thought the are was supposed to stick out the back, then again I've never done crossover steering before.
Any useful info you guys can give me would be great.
Such as: Is this a reverse rotation axle?
Is there anything special that I need to know about this axle?
The BOM number will be on the tube not the webbing but I doubt you'll be able to read anything. It will be stamped in, not raised, and approx 8 characters long.
That is a regular (probably ORD) crossover arm. It should work for you but you'll need to verify the TRE hole is the correct size for your drag link assembly.
That is a regular (probably ORD) crossover arm. It should work for you but you'll need to verify the TRE hole is the correct size for your drag link assembly.
I forgot... Yes, that's a reverse rotation axle.
As far as identifying the year you might try the D60 bible on pirate for the spring perch widths. Basically a 78-79 axle is the same as a Chevy whereas the later 86-92 is few inches wider.
As far as identifying the year you might try the D60 bible on pirate for the spring perch widths. Basically a 78-79 axle is the same as a Chevy whereas the later 86-92 is few inches wider.
The spring pads on the D60 measured 32" which means it's definitely a 78-79 and I should be able to make it work with an NP241 (I think).
Those leaf springs that I posted the picture of yesterday measured 61" eye to eye, and 66" over all length.
I wonder what they go to? Or if perhaps I can spread my rear spring hangers out (body mount to bumper mount) enough that I can use them? If so I'm going to end up with ridiculous lift in the rear with the shackle flips and would need to lift the front more. Maybe 52's in the front would do the trick. Or maybe I can put a piece of 3" square tube between the front hard mount and the frame and longer shackles to push the front up.
Yep I'm pretty much just posting thoughts as they come to me, hoping for some input because I don't want to get into something just to find out it can't be done or isn't worth doing.
Those leaf springs that I posted the picture of yesterday measured 61" eye to eye, and 66" over all length.
I wonder what they go to? Or if perhaps I can spread my rear spring hangers out (body mount to bumper mount) enough that I can use them? If so I'm going to end up with ridiculous lift in the rear with the shackle flips and would need to lift the front more. Maybe 52's in the front would do the trick. Or maybe I can put a piece of 3" square tube between the front hard mount and the frame and longer shackles to push the front up.
Yep I'm pretty much just posting thoughts as they come to me, hoping for some input because I don't want to get into something just to find out it can't be done or isn't worth doing.
More good news
I just spoke with the guy at the local driveshaft shop that's been around longer than I've been alive and they said I could run the same transfer case and just run the front driveshaft at an angle and it would be fine even with u-joints. He said at worst I would need to lengthen my driveshaft a little bit.
EDIT:
Upon closer inspection maybe not. In a hard flex I could wind up with my driveshaft up against my transmission pan and/or oil pan. More lift maybe? This is getting out of hand.
I just spoke with the guy at the local driveshaft shop that's been around longer than I've been alive and they said I could run the same transfer case and just run the front driveshaft at an angle and it would be fine even with u-joints. He said at worst I would need to lengthen my driveshaft a little bit.
EDIT:
Upon closer inspection maybe not. In a hard flex I could wind up with my driveshaft up against my transmission pan and/or oil pan. More lift maybe? This is getting out of hand.
Last edited:
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
As in passenger side t case, drivers side axle? Give me some of whatever he's smokin'. Unless you have huge lift and some very expensive driveshafts, I don't think that would work.
Wait... So the guy said it was ok to run a left hand drive axle with a right hand drop tcase??? Run away! Far away!
The tcase drop and axle need to match. No exceptions.
The tcase drop and axle need to match. No exceptions.
No worries guys. I just found a DD NP241 (stick) out of a 92 Chevy for $50 on craigslist, so problem solved.
Plus I don't think the drive shaft guy knew exactly what I was working on, it was more of a question of if the diff were scooted over a foot, would it work? And the answer was yes. Clearance issues and other details never came up. And he did say he would have to see it. So no big deal. Now I need to figure out when I can go get this TCase and hope like hell it works like he says it does.
Edit:
Crap I guess you can't win them all it had a 32 spline input shaft and I have a TH350 which has 27 splines so that one was a no go.
Plus I don't think the drive shaft guy knew exactly what I was working on, it was more of a question of if the diff were scooted over a foot, would it work? And the answer was yes. Clearance issues and other details never came up. And he did say he would have to see it. So no big deal. Now I need to figure out when I can go get this TCase and hope like hell it works like he says it does.
Edit:
Crap I guess you can't win them all it had a 32 spline input shaft and I have a TH350 which has 27 splines so that one was a no go.
Last edited:
Next question:
Which type of locker is this I'm my 14bff?
The only numbers on the carrier are 414C and 1171
I've seen the billa vista bible, but if anyone knows of a good page that covers identifying all of the different types of carriers it would be nice to have. Especially since I plan to do a bunch of buying and trading in the process of doing my convertion.
Which type of locker is this I'm my 14bff?
The only numbers on the carrier are 414C and 1171
I've seen the billa vista bible, but if anyone knows of a good page that covers identifying all of the different types of carriers it would be nice to have. Especially since I plan to do a bunch of buying and trading in the process of doing my convertion.
That is a factory Gov Lock.
In other words, put the cover back on and sell it. Right?
Or are these better than the ones that came in the 10 bolt?
They are better than the 1/2 ton stuff. They still have problems, but usually not exploding problems. The one in mine was all worn out, teeth ground off the fly weight. When they work they are ok, when they don't they are just as bad as an open. I welded pulled the weights out of mine and welded it up.
I wouldn't go that far. Maybe a crack/meth head though.
I'd say you bought some stolen axels.
I wouldn't go that far. Maybe a crack/meth head though.
Originally I was planning to run 4.56 gears since I have 37" tires. I bought this to resell, but it came with a sweet D60 Snowfighter front, and both have 3.73 gears.
After running the numbers I don't think 3.73 would be all that bad.
I think it came out to something like 1968 RPM @ 55mph.
4.56 gears would have me running 2406 RPM @ 55mph
It had 3.08 gears when I bought it which ran 1625 RPM @ 55 mph
It'll be an improvement but idk if it would be enough. What do you think?
It's is primarily for off-roading but I'm keeping her street legal since I don't have a trailer to haul it.
After running the numbers I don't think 3.73 would be all that bad.
I think it came out to something like 1968 RPM @ 55mph.
4.56 gears would have me running 2406 RPM @ 55mph
It had 3.08 gears when I bought it which ran 1625 RPM @ 55 mph
It'll be an improvement but idk if it would be enough. What do you think?
It's is primarily for off-roading but I'm keeping her street legal since I don't have a trailer to haul it.
Run it with 3.73's for now and see how you like it. You can always regear later.
Martin
Martin
That's one option but here is my dilemma.
I'm working with a very small budget, that will require me to sell off any left overs. I'm a pretty good trader so I'm trying to prove to my wife (call it a bet if you like) that I can do this whole upgrade for $200 dollars or less. I can trade as much as I want and even exceed the cash budget but when the double diff swap (that started off as a simple 3.08 to 4.56 regear) is done the total spent has to be $200 or less.
So here is the score:
I purchased a 14bff 4.56 for $200
Two days later I came across the sweet deal on the two axles that sparked this whole thread. Originally I bought them to flip which would easily leave me having made a profit on the upgrade.
However this particular Ford D60 happens to be just about every off-roaders wet dream, it fits in my rig, and I know I'll probably never have the chance to buy another one.
So I have a tough decision to make. Here are my options.
I can...
A: Sell the D60 and the matching 14b, get a set of 3/4 ton spindles to convert my 10 bolt, since I already have an 8.5" 4.56 R&P and a flat top D44(p) knuckle, make a nice profit, and hope like hell the front holds up.
B: Sell the D60 and the matching 14b, buy a 3/4 ton D44 and regear it. Come in on budget.
C: Keep the D60, and my 4.56-14b, sell the 3.73-14b and my 3.08-10b, trade my NP208 for an NP241, barely make budget and leave out the front driveshaft, wait until I can regear it.
D: Keep both 3.73's, trade transfer cases, sell the rest and be done with it. (There would likely be no regear them both later option)
I'm pretty much torn between C & D, because I really want to keep it.
I guess I need to just bolt them both up and drive it while my old front is still in it and see which one I like better.
Or I could "choose the 3.73's" and have a "hard time selling the 4.56's" and sell my old front and every random left over part I can't use or don't want until I can afford the front regear "3.73's are easier to sell". In case you can't tell I'm married, and my wife couldn't possibly care less for my truck.
For tires I'm going to try to trade my 37's on 15" 6 lug wheels for a set of H1 take offs (we'll see). And no, I'm not forgetting U-bolts, U-joints, steering box, tie rods, etc. Donations welcome
If only I had bought that pair of 3/4 ton GM 4.10's when I first started looking and been done with it, but no, I had to hold out for 4.56 gears, and now I'm considering 3.73's
Last edited:
Possible trades
Some guy offered me a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts, 4.56 gears (what I want), and a Detroit locker for my D60.
It's tempting, but it's also a driver side drop, so I would still have to trade trannys.
I have another guy offering me a D60 out of an 89 Dodge 3/4 ton. And that's all I know about it.
Some guy offered me a Dana 44 with chromoly shafts, 4.56 gears (what I want), and a Detroit locker for my D60.
It's tempting, but it's also a driver side drop, so I would still have to trade trannys.
I have another guy offering me a D60 out of an 89 Dodge 3/4 ton. And that's all I know about it.
