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Help me INSTALL a big block...Bought a 468!

My headers (Hedman Elites) bolted right on with no problems with motor mounts or clearance of any sort. Now, I will be installing either ORD or DIY mounts because my stock rubber ones are squished, plus ORD engine crossmember, so we shall see afterwards how they work. But, it looks to me like it will be no prob.
 
When I was going to do a torque monster big block for my 442 the plan was

496 kit from summit.

Aluminum assembled oval port procomp heads from ebay for $1500

Roller cam for street use as per Comps suggestion

11:1


Building a 454+ in big block with the oval ports, at least 9:1 and a decent cam and getting 500ftlbs of torque is about as easy as it gets...
 
I'm doing the 454 swap now,

Went with a stock 1978 454, 781 heads, a mild cam 252 or 262 grind. Mallory spark box, and a fast EZ EFI. I have been told by a lot of people, this is enough for torque with out killing the wallet and I plan on rock crawling here in Colorado.
Money saved, going to build up a THM 400, and get the ORD magnum box.
Same set up as the OP, ton axles, 4.56 and wimpy 37" tall tires on 17" rims
 
I wouldn't use procomps.

I went through a lot of reading and debate on this issue. And the conclusion I drew was that yes the casting is not AS good as a brodix or AFR BUT that doesnt mean they arent acceptable. Especially in a not all out race application.

I also drew the conclusion that you should purchase them from a machine shop vendor who set them up with good hardware and stands behind their work. Not to buy them directly assembled from procomp.
 
It all depends....

Was it built by a reputable shop with receipts to prove what's in it, or was it just built by some schmoe who read a book on "rebuilding your BBC" and gave it a shot in his garage.

Big difference IMHO.

There are plenty of ways to screw up a rebuild.... I remember reading Shawn Spickler's (Potent Rodent build) stories of something like 3 bad engines in his truck. And those were from supposedly GOOD shops in his area. All sorts of oiling problems, assembly mistakes, and/or bad parts that munched 1000s of dollars worth of parts each time.

Craigslist motors can be a crapshoot.... Especially if it's a 0-mile motor that's never even been run. You just don't know what you're getting for your money. I'd rather pay a bit extra for something that I can see/hear run.... Or buy from a specialist like GMPP (or whoever you like) that builds lots of BBCs and knows them inside and out.

-G
 
I went through a lot of reading and debate on this issue. And the conclusion I drew was that yes the casting is not AS good as a brodix or AFR BUT that doesnt mean they arent acceptable. Especially in a not all out race application.

I also drew the conclusion that you should purchase them from a machine shop vendor who set them up with good hardware and stands behind their work. Not to buy them directly assembled from procomp.

I have seen them on a flow bench. They have huge poorly flowing ports. If you want torque and response look else where.
 

I really feel like I should be able to find something similar for a lot less money though... That's already starting up near the total that I wanted to spend, and that's not including EFI, fuel cell/lines, accessories or ignition.

A part of me is thinking about just throwing a truck avenger on the pig and running it until it blows. If I did that and sold the EFI I have and the edelbrock carb I have now I should be able to pocket close to $2,000 and deal with a motor later... I wouldn't mind putting that money towards a cage. I'm also thinking about buying my wife a corvette as a welcome home gift, so that money could go towards that too...

Freakin first world problems.:doah::haha:
 
Sean,

If you are building for torque and low-RPM, you will save a ton of money on this build.

Aluminum heads are great for power, but I'd say they are a waste of money unless you want a big HP number on the top end. Spending $3000 for the weight savings seems foolish to me.... a set of 049 or 781 iron heads can be re-worked with larger valves and will give you PLENTY of torque for your application, and at a much more wallet-friendly price.

I don't think you need massive CFM numbers on your EFI system either. Again that is more of a peak-HP consideration, and I'll bet you could feed a BBC with 500CFM-600CFM pretty well if you weren't trying to spin it above 5500RPM anyway.

A lot of the really expensive parts are a result of wanting high RPM, or high HP (or both)... if you play the BBC game correctly you should be able to use much more common (and affordable parts) to get reasonable RPM capability and great bottom-end torque numbers. Using a milder cam will help your bottom-end, and will be more friendly for EFI tuning too.

This is one of those rare occasions where I'd say NOT to indulge the "Might As Wells"..... a hardcore, all-out BBC motor will cost you a ton of extra money but won't necessarily be better for your intended application. If you decide to start doing sand drags or whatever, then you can start worrying about aluminum heads, forged internals and all the other (really) expensive chit.

My vote is to get a solid, almost stock 454 short/longblock and make a few select upgrades (aluminum dualplane intake, for example).... throw your preferred EFI setup on it with a set of headers and peel the "f" out. :waytogo:

-G

I agree with all that was said above. Look at what you can do for a near stock reliable build.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1101_demon_engines_454_engine/

I have the one cam milder than the Car Craft build. BBC/TH400/np205/4.11/39.5"TSL. I love it. Great for mud, snow and road. Wouldn't change it, and would do it again. For rocks it woulde need better gearing though.
 
I'm far from an expert on the BB engines, but it seems that for what you want the best bet would be a lower mileage vortec 454, or 8.1.
 
The motor has a

callies forged steel crank and H-Beam rods
JE Flat top pistons
Double roller timing chain
Melling M77HV oil pump
Crane Cams 741 cam
Crane retro roller lifters and push rods
Harlan Sharp 1.7 roller rockers
Merlin Oval Port heads 230 intakes
new valve springs with titanium retainers.
Holley 830 cfm double pumper carb.

Motor is oil pan to carb ready to run.. But if you are putting it a car you will need a different oil pan which I may have.

He also said it has 9:1 compression because they were planning to supercharge it, but he sold the boat so now he's selling the motor. Was built by a very reputable local speed shop, so I'm going to look at it/pick it up Tuesday. I'm thinking I'm probably going to put an oil pan/pickup on it that'll work in the truck, source a serp belt setup and run it. I know I was ranting about wanting EFI, but I'm thinking a marine grade 850 double pumper should run just fine. That'll allow me to save up some coin and do the efi down the road some time. I'll be talking to Boyd welding about a fuel cell after I go look at it. I need to put together a shopping list from summit including AN fittings, a flywheel, headers and anything else I might need. I'll be talking to Kert about taller engine mounts and some shorter rear shackles for the rear too. We'll see where this goes....

3Ga3M43Hb5I85Ed5Kcd5ef065ca4e276214fb.jpg
 
Looks great. Not sure how wild the can is have to look it up.
 
Looks great. Not sure how wild the can is have to look it up.

Yeah, we'll see what it is. I'm hoping we can hook it up to a gas can and fire it real quick, but it sounds like a hell of a solid platform I think.
 
what is that 741 cam?
I see a few rollers with .714 lift, but no reference to a 741?

that is a fokton of lift (and the duration that goes with it) for anything but all out racing.
Find out what the CC's are of the intake runners....I'm guessing 320 or more if it was going to be a supercharged engine? the 269cc's sound like a kick ass head for street/torque engines. See if you can get the valve spring specs as well Sean.
Looks like a nice engine.
 
Is it wrong that I'm getting excited too??



This is going to be cool....
 
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