y5mgisi
1 ton status
Roger that.
CK5
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Help me paint my bed.
- Thread starter y5mgisi
- Start date
denatured alky is fine to wipe down with... I usually just mix on scrap cardboard, etc, throwaway when done...
ask away when needed...
ask away when needed...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Thanks man! Here is a combo pic that kinda shows the progress.
I got a 12 pack of those yellow spreaders and 50 pack of those dixie paper plates from the grocery store.
the plates were very handy and I wasn't always searching for something to mix it on...and you can toss them as soon as it kicks...and grab a clean one quickly for the next batch.
the plates were very handy and I wasn't always searching for something to mix it on...and you can toss them as soon as it kicks...and grab a clean one quickly for the next batch.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I like the paper plate idea!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So over the whole 4 day weekend I got about 2 hours in on the bed. I think that area is pretty well ready for a sand and filler. I still have a few other dings and such that will also require filler. Should I work those areas too and fill everything at once? Or do each spot at a time?
it's always the most efficient to do all of one thing at a time.... do all your metal work, prep it all, fill it all, fair it all, featheredge it all, prime, glaze, wetsand, reprime, prep, paint, dance...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oky doky. Thanks!
Hey Ryoken, when you get back online, you might give him a heads up about temperature vs hardening time on the body filler.
I know the hotter it is, the faster the cure, but I don't work with it enough to give him any pointers.
Since I am too lazy to go online and look up the weather where he is, I'm guessing he will reply, and you can let him know about maybe mixing it with a little more hardener if its real cold.
If, in fact, that is needed.
I know the hotter it is, the faster the cure, but I don't work with it enough to give him any pointers.
Since I am too lazy to go online and look up the weather where he is, I'm guessing he will reply, and you can let him know about maybe mixing it with a little more hardener if its real cold.
If, in fact, that is needed.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm certain the temperature up here would be out of spec of any filler. It's averaging about 40°f or so. With the heater on in the garage I can get it up to about 50°f which I think is at the bottom end of most the body work stuff.
heck, I've done glasswork when it was 15... 
any questions when the time comes, we can talk hardener %'s... Chiefy can chime in with his experience too... it's a fine line to walk sometimes...
any questions when the time comes, we can talk hardener %'s... Chiefy can chime in with his experience too... it's a fine line to walk sometimes...
Hey, 15 is better than 95! I tried to some glass work one time outside at that temp or higher, and almost left my spreader in the glass it hardened so fast.......
It actually worked out good. I was glassing the bottom of a brand new Igloo cooler. This was back in the day when they ruled the roost.
I would get a new cooler, toss it in the back of the truck and fill it with Cokes and ice for the hunting trip.
It lived in the back from then on.
After a few months of sliding around, the corners of the bottom would wear down to the insulation.
Then the foam would soak up water and it would quit keeping ice well.
So, when I bought a new one, I grabbed a glassing kit. I figured I would glass the bottom nice and thick and it would last.
But, with the heat, it wound up with lots of spikes of resin sticking up. It looked terrible, but worked great.
The little spikes acted like legs, and wore down slowly. That cooler lasted for years and years.
It actually worked out good. I was glassing the bottom of a brand new Igloo cooler. This was back in the day when they ruled the roost.
I would get a new cooler, toss it in the back of the truck and fill it with Cokes and ice for the hunting trip.
It lived in the back from then on.
After a few months of sliding around, the corners of the bottom would wear down to the insulation.
Then the foam would soak up water and it would quit keeping ice well.
So, when I bought a new one, I grabbed a glassing kit. I figured I would glass the bottom nice and thick and it would last.
But, with the heat, it wound up with lots of spikes of resin sticking up. It looked terrible, but worked great.
The little spikes acted like legs, and wore down slowly. That cooler lasted for years and years.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well this project might be back burnered for some time as I might be buying a house in the next month or so. Going to look at the new house today. If we put in an offer and it's accepted, all truck stuff goes into hibernation mode. Will keep you all updated!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So i guess an update. Ita looking liie we are going to put tye house sale/purchase on hold. Also i got a set of paint guns for Christmas! So i should be back on the bed shortly.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well as it works out, we aren't sure now if the whole house thing is on hold or not! Will know more in the next week. But I did get some stuff for Christmas for when I do get back on it! Got a set of durablock sanding blocks and a set of devillbiss starting line paint guns!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So I'm just about ready to apply some filler. I'll get the duraglass and rage gold. So to apply the duraglass, I should sand the area with yonderish of 36 grit on the bare metal. Correct? And then if I need to apply rage gold in an area that spans from the duraglass to bare metal, what grit should I be sending that with? Finally, once I get the entire panel ready to prime, what grit should I use for the first primer layer, and what primer should I be using? In my research I have read that it's best to epoxy prime. Is that true?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
One last thing, how should I treat these poc marked areas?
GRIND whatever areas need fill with 24 to 36 grit... all of it, larger than the dented area...
fill everything with the glass.. rough that out with 36... than put a skim coat of the rage over all the glass and out a few inches... make sure you go back in after ripping the glass with 36 and nip any low/shiney areas with a grinder before putting the rage over it.. shiney = poor adhesion
rip that with 36 and finish off with 80... DA sand all surround metal with 80 to 150ish...
a lot of guys like epoxy.. I don't.. it sands kinda sh*tty.. painting a bridge or frame, than it's good imo.. you can also epoxy everything than overcoat with urethane for good sanding... that's what you'll see a lot of guys do.. get's expensive and time consuming imo..
I prefer zincing the raw steel, not the filler.. than overcoating everything with a urethane primer like nason 2k, etc..
than squeegee glazing putty on the mud areas.. wetsand with 220 to 240.. reprime.. wetsand.. paint...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Interesting. OK that should get me pretty well on my way! Thanks!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Ain't it funny how life goes? Anyway, we are buying a new house still, if all goes well we should be moving around Feb 14th. Valentines day. Anyway, with the house come lots of work from me. Hardwood floors to replace the carpet, kitchen remodel, and moving a door in the master bathroom name a few. So the bed project is on hard hold. Which makes me sad.
But the fact is my house now is 720 soft, has a small kitchen and small garage. We need more. And it's in a much better neighborhood. So it will certainly be worth it, but it will be tough to put the truck stuff on hold. But that's how life goes. It's all for the better.
But the fact is my house now is 720 soft, has a small kitchen and small garage. We need more. And it's in a much better neighborhood. So it will certainly be worth it, but it will be tough to put the truck stuff on hold. But that's how life goes. It's all for the better.
