CK5
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Help With Zero-Rate Install--Pic's Added 3/20/11

Watch your drag link on hard right turns. May need to adjust the steering stop if the tire rubs or gets close.
 
Watch your drag link on hard right turns. May need to adjust the steering stop if the tire rubs or gets close.

Thanks, hadn't thought about that yet.
Need to cut the drag link yet, we just adjusted as much as possible for now. Hopefully will get to it, and proper fender trimming tomorrow.
 
Welcome. I learned the hard way after I had to replace the front drag link from the boot being rubbed to shreds.
 
Welcome. I learned the hard way after I had to replace the front drag link from the boot being rubbed to shreds.

The boot on my drag link end that attaches to the pitman arm looks really bad but it still seems to have some grease in there. Should I replace it or just not worry about it? What will happen if I don't replace it? What made you replace yours?
 
Mine was shredded from the 36" HMMWV bias plies rubbing against it in hard right turns.

There was no grease left, just greasy residue, and you could see the shaft and everything. Just a matter of time before it started binding up and having rust issues.
 
Drag Link Clearance & Steering Stop Bolt

I've got at least 1" clearance between the front drag link end and the inside front of the tire. Also noticed that the steering stop bolt is broke off on the drivers side, just a stub of the bolt and the lock nut left. Since I have enough clearance, do I need to replace the steering stop bolt?
I can see how 35" tires could hit the drag link end if mounted on stock rims, although a 35" narrow tire may work.
 
I've got at least 1" clearance between the front drag link end and the inside front of the tire. Also noticed that the steering stop bolt is broke off on the drivers side, just a stub of the bolt and the lock nut left. Since I have enough clearance, do I need to replace the steering stop bolt?
I can see how 35" tires could hit the drag link end if mounted on stock rims, although a 35" narrow tire may work.

The steering stops are more important in that they keep your axle shafts from binding (and hence breaking).
 
Steering Stop Bolt?

Found a Knuckle Stop Bolt, part #30-0376, for a GM 10 Bolt in the LMC catalog. They want $16.95!:eek1:
LMC does not list 1 ton parts. Is this the same bolt as on a D60?
Would like to know the correct size and grade of bolt needed. Is it a Grade 8 bolt?
Would like to have a new one in hand before the replacement project is started.
 
I wouldn't think you would need a grade 8 for a steering stop bolt. A cheap grade 5 will do, I think. Post on the want to buy forum about what you want and I'm sure someone will have what you're looking for. In fact, I have a couple of junk knuckles with the bolts still in them. One is off a 10 bolt and the other is a D44 style. PM me if you want them.
 
Found a Knuckle Stop Bolt, part #30-0376, for a GM 10 Bolt in the LMC catalog. They want $16.95!:eek1:
LMC does not list 1 ton parts. Is this the same bolt as on a D60?
Would like to know the correct size and grade of bolt needed. Is it a Grade 8 bolt?
Would like to have a new one in hand before the replacement project is started.

Mine were fine threaded 3/8-24 UNF x 1.25 bolts from any good hardware store. I used grade 8, just because I find they don't get rusted in and break off as easy, but a grade 5 would probably be fine, it's just a metal to metal stop, you aren't going to keep purposely banging against it with the steering wheel. Just keep the hubs unlocked and the tcase in neutral, and make sure the axle will turn freely all the way around from stop to stop, if it doesn't, turn the stop out more, and leave a little room for error.
 
It wouldn't hurt to use a little blue Loctite on there so it won't back out and get lost again.
 
Mine were fine threaded 3/8-24 UNF x 1.25 bolts from any good hardware store. I used grade 8, just because I find they don't get rusted in and break off as easy, but a grade 5 would probably be fine, it's just a metal to metal stop, you aren't going to keep purposely banging against it with the steering wheel. Just keep the hubs unlocked and the tcase in neutral, and make sure the axle will turn freely all the way around from stop to stop, if it doesn't, turn the stop out more, and leave a little room for error.
That's what I found on Big Ugly. I used Grade 8 as well and just used a longer bolt than stock in my situation.
 
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