Watch your drag link on hard right turns. May need to adjust the steering stop if the tire rubs or gets close.
Watch your drag link on hard right turns. May need to adjust the steering stop if the tire rubs or gets close.
Welcome. I learned the hard way after I had to replace the front drag link from the boot being rubbed to shreds.
I've got at least 1" clearance between the front drag link end and the inside front of the tire. Also noticed that the steering stop bolt is broke off on the drivers side, just a stub of the bolt and the lock nut left. Since I have enough clearance, do I need to replace the steering stop bolt?
I can see how 35" tires could hit the drag link end if mounted on stock rims, although a 35" narrow tire may work.
The steering stops are more important in that they keep your axle shafts from binding (and hence breaking).

Found a Knuckle Stop Bolt, part #30-0376, for a GM 10 Bolt in the LMC catalog. They want $16.95!
LMC does not list 1 ton parts. Is this the same bolt as on a D60?
Would like to know the correct size and grade of bolt needed. Is it a Grade 8 bolt?
Would like to have a new one in hand before the replacement project is started.
That's what I found on Big Ugly. I used Grade 8 as well and just used a longer bolt than stock in my situation.Mine were fine threaded 3/8-24 UNF x 1.25 bolts from any good hardware store. I used grade 8, just because I find they don't get rusted in and break off as easy, but a grade 5 would probably be fine, it's just a metal to metal stop, you aren't going to keep purposely banging against it with the steering wheel. Just keep the hubs unlocked and the tcase in neutral, and make sure the axle will turn freely all the way around from stop to stop, if it doesn't, turn the stop out more, and leave a little room for error.