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HELP

greengiant0311

greengiant0311

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Good morning all. I have an 88 suburban. Here is the story

I was driving to work and it kept dying on me. On my way home it died and I had to have it towed. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, ignition coil, ignition control module, temp sensor, battery, cap and rotor, adjusted timing and fuel pump relay. Its still a hard start and not dependable. My wife drove it to work and it died, had to have a friend to her to work. It started right up and I drove it home. Drove to the day care and it wouldn't start. So I've been watching the gauges while starting and it takes 10 15 seconds of cranking and it will eventually start once the oil pressure gets up to around 20. From reading I have found that it will do that for safety reasons if it tips over for shut off. I've even replaced the oil pressure sensor. While running I disconnected the fuel pump and it died so im thinking it nots the fuel pump. I disconnected the relay while running and it still runs I have replaced the relay 2 times. I AM LOST any help is appreciated. Also I can hear the fuel pump turn off but not on when I turn on the ignition...
 
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No idea. But I'm thinking about just bypassing the relay and hooking the fuel pump to the ignition. Everything is brand new. Oh and I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator asw ell.
 
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It sounds like you're throwing parts at the problem, which gets expensive and can delay troubleshooting. Focus on the three things an engine needs to run-fuel, spark, and air. Start troubleshooting each system to eliminate potential causes and you'll find it. I agree that you should definitely check your fuel pressure, as hard starting frequently points to a fuel supply issue or a weak spark.
 
Ok I get you have to have fuel air and spark. I know I've been throwing parts at it but they have all ben in a proceeding way. I've asked multiple people on multiple sites. Everyone has had different answers to this dilemma. That's why I'm asking here.
 
check whole run of power wire to pump . possible bad section .

what oil pressure sensor did you change . top by dist ? or side of block above oil filter ?

relay for fuel pump yet ?

and unless you realy know what your doing don't just hot wire the pump to ignition hot . if not done right = burn down ride .

and as said before fuel pressure check ?

replacement pump with the little short rubber conector hose from pump to sender have been blowing out from cheep hose they give us these days in the kit and drop fuel pressure .
 
Ok so I used my power probe to check pump and pump comes on when it has power. So I disconnected the relay, made a jumper to the hot to fuel pump from battery and have power to pump. Left hot wire in place and it started right away! Where's the problem at? This is the 3rd relay. If I run the wire to bypass the relay I planned on hooking it into the ignition so that the pump comes on when the ignition is turned on and off when the ignition is off. The oil pressure sensor was the one down by the filter.
 
I pulled out the wiring diagram and traced the ignition to the orange wire and connected it to the brown/white power wire for the fuel pump and it worked with the ignition off. So its not the ignition either. So is it the dang relay again?????
 
also that red wire pig tail @ relay is a test wire for pump / relay test you know .

send it 12 volt positive it bypasses the relay to pump directly .

try and find a gm relay NOT crappy china parts store units.
 
sweetk30 said:
also that red wire pig tail @ relay is a test wire for pump / relay test you know .

send it 12 volt positive it bypasses the relay to pump directly .

try and find a gm relay NOT crappy china parts store units.
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Do you mean the fuel primer wire that goes to nothing?Well I wired it to the wiper motor power wire, pump stays on while key is on and turns off when the key is off. Does that sound good, or is it too ghetto??
 
to ghetto .

do its own cirket with fuse and relay .

I use to be a mechanic for years and now tow truck driver . I seen way to many half ass wire jobs trash vehicles .

just towed a burnt car last night whole front end gone . was prob wiring . . .
 
sweetk30 said:
to ghetto .

do its own cirket with fuse and relay .

I use to be a mechanic for years and now tow truck driver . I seen way to many half ass wire jobs trash vehicles .

just towed a burnt car last night whole front end gone . was prob wiring . . .
Click to expand...


I'm actually thinking of wiring it on its own switch too.
 
that in line of relay trigger power be good for extra anti-theft security .

make sure you get relay trigger power from key hot AND crank position . so pump runs key on and starting . and when key off power to pump off . so if you forget to turn off switch you don't have a dead battery .
 
...when was the last time you put fresh plugs and wires on it...?
 
Tried checking the grounds at the ECM and all the wiring going to it ?..
I've seen many grounds on GM's that connect to a common bus bar under the kick panel get gangrene and cause all sorts of intermittent electrical issues that were hard to diagnose..
 
didn't read replies, but have you at least checked for codes?
 
ryoken said:
didn't read replies, but have you at least checked for codes?
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The only code is 1 flash then 2 flashes. From what I've
diesel4me said:
Tried checking the grounds at the ECM and all the wiring going to it ?..
I've seen many grounds on GM's that connect to a common bus bar under the kick panel get gangrene and cause all sorts of intermittent electrical issues that were hard to diagnose..
Click to expand...

seen that's normal?
diesel4me said:
Tried checking the grounds at the ECM and all the wiring going to it ?..
I've seen many grounds on GM's that connect to a common bus bar under the kick panel get gangrene and cause all sorts of intermittent electrical issues that were hard to diagnose..
Click to expand...

I will check that area today. I didn't notice anything that jumped out at me but ill give it another look
 
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