CK5
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High compression? or?

Seems like others have had the same issue.

idk what you read on that page, my cyber security flagged it as a phishing page
 
I did notice that there was no obvious ground strap between the engine and the body. I added one from the engine to the frame. I should probably connect the frame to to the body as well, since the rubber body mounts might isolate the frame from the small negative ground wire.

Also, the starter cable remains cool to the touch after extended cranking. I assume there would be a hot spot if there was resistance somewhere. That proves nothing, but it is noteworthy.
If you didn't have a ground from engine to battery, engine to frame and frame to body, add it.
That most likely is the problem, at least it was every time I had this problem.
The starter heat soak also is a problem that I have always solved with the remote solenoid, I am surprised no one mentioned it yet
 
If you didn't have a ground from engine to battery, engine to frame and frame to body, add it.
That most likely is the problem, at least it was every time I had this problem.
The starter heat soak also is a problem that I have always solved with the remote solenoid, I am surprised no one mentioned it yet


Can you send a link to a remote solenoid? Amazon? 1978 K5 SBC
 
Since the solenoid is engaging and not just clicking then a remote solenoid will only help empty your wallet.
 
Since the solenoid is engaging and not just clicking then a remote solenoid will only help empty your wallet.
The solenoid will bring more power straight to the starter if done right.
When the wires from the ignition key are hot they are not delivering enough power.
I did that on my van and made a big difference in hot starts
 
The solenoid will bring more power straight to the starter if done right.
When the wires from the ignition key are hot they are not delivering enough power.
I did that on my van and made a big difference in hot starts

This is one of the mini starters though, correct? I thought these things are generally immune to heat soak? Could be wrong, for some reason I thought that was one of their advantages.
 
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So I installed motor to frame and a frame to body ground. All the gauges bounce around a little. Fuel, voltage, speed, etc. I noticed that the voltage gauge doesn't seem to bounce around anymore. It holds solid at about 14. So I went to have the charging system tested by more advanced equipment than what have. Alternator passed, bit the battery and starter failed the tests. Very odd. The battery is HUGE and fully charged. 1K CCA. I tested it thoroughly with an old school tester as well as a battery analyzer. The starter is a fairly new $200 high torque gear reduction mini starter.

Thoughts?

Charging system was only working when cold? After that it was running off the battery? Reducing battery enough that it was struggling to start? About a month ago I tested the old battery and it tested bad even though it was only 2 years old. Swapped it out.
 
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So I installed motor to frame and a frame to body ground. All the gauges bounce around a little. Fuel, voltage, speed, etc. I noticed that the voltage gauge doesn't seem to bounce around anymore. It holds solid at about 14. So I went to have the charging system tested by more advanced equipment than what have. Alternator passed, bit the battery and starter failed the tests. Very odd. The battery is HUGE and fully charged. 1K CCA. I tested it thoroughly with an old school tester as well as a battery analyzer. The starter is a fairly new $200 high torque gear reduction mini starter.

Thoughts?

Charging system was only working when cold? After that it was running off the battery? Reducing battery enough that it was struggling to start? About a month ago I tested the old battery and it tested bad even though it was only 2 years old. Swapped it out.
Second place says the battery voltage and CCA is good but the reserve power is low. They said they could not test anything else until that was fixed.
 
So the small wire on at the positive terminal on the battery cable. What's that do? Mine is not connected to anything. Is that supposed to power something? Or does the vehicle get all its power from the wire where it attaches to the starter?
 
Since the solenoid is engaging and not just clicking then a remote solenoid will only help empty your wallet.
I'm agreeing with @imiceman44. The whole point of the remote solenoid is to bring more current to the starter-mounted solenoid and make it kick the contacts together firmly.
 
The pig tail near the battery terminal if an aftermarket cable is not used. All power to truck is through the fuse links at the main starter lug.
If the alt quits working when warm, the battery is being used up to power truck, you are lucky to restart it even with the spark disabled
 
Never ever had a problem starting cold. Always fires right up. Removed old battery / starter cable. Visually looks good. Load tested battery and it shows 800. Load tested battery using the old battery cable between the battery and load tester + side. Sesults: 400. Not the best of connections, trying to clamp the fisheye end of the battery cable with metal jaws of the load tester.
 
how are you load testing? with a carbon pile or solid state type tester. You want to watch the voltage drop while the battery is under load. A good battery should stay above 9v 10 to 15 seconds 300 amp load.
 
ahh the old toaster type, still want to see voltage while it does it's thing
 
ahh the old toaster type, still want to see voltage while it does it's thing


The problem was there when I bought it, and this is the 3rd good battery that's been in it. Cant be the battery. The auto parts stores said the current battery has PLENTY of voltage and amps for this rig.
 
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