CK5
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High compression? or?
- Thread starter 78 GMC Jimmy
- Start date
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Cool, thanks man.
Looks like you are in luck.
I will not spend time to clean it up much for $10 but you can clean it up.
It's in good shape and the ubolts are too.
Do you need the washer on nut?
Or yours are still good?
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
My whole setup took damage. The nut is in marginal condition, and there was no washer, so I found a washer that was close enough. So ya, if your able to send the washer and nut that would be ideal, but i could survive without it if needed.
Is there a number I can text you at to make the arrangements?
9168715548
Issaam Maalouf
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
So.. The starting problem when warm: I spend a LONG time trying to fix it. I had 2 other mechanics look at it. I took it to multiple places to have stuff tested. NO ONE around my part of the world could come up with a solution. When you would open the hood and adjust the timing, the problem would instantly go away. But later come back. Open the hood again and change the timing and it was fixed for a while, then come back. It looks like the positive battery cable was the problem, but somehow the decrease in temperature from opening the hood would cool it down enough that it would work properly until it heated up again. It must have just barely been working, and a 10 degree difference would cause it to stop working. I have never seen that before, and no one else I talked to has seen that before either.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Glad you got it fixed. 
Did you cut the insulation off the old cable to examine the wires yet?
Did you cut the insulation off the old cable to examine the wires yet?
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Glad you got it fixed.
Did you cut the insulation off the old cable to examine the wires yet?
Thanks, and thanks to everyone for all the pointers and tips. So glad that its fixed. And in the process of fixing, everything else on the engine has been upgraded, fine tuned, replaced, etc. So its running GREAT at this point. I can burn the 37" tires at a stop sign and the rig hauls ass! Plenty of power and it purrs like a kitten when at idle.
I have not had a chance to cut the wire yet, but I could probably do that today and post pics in this thread. I sure wont use the cable again, so why not chop it up.
solved on post #9
rampage
3/4 ton status
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
If any of all yalls wana see the positive battery cable, here it is.
Worked absolutely 100% of the time cold.
Worked maybe 80% of the time hot.
When it didn't work hot, you could wait a little while or open the hood, and that would cause it to work again.
Locally:
One guy said 90% starter.
One guy said 90% timing.
One guy said 100% battery.
One guy said most likely carb/intake issues.
And so on. .
Some of the local guys said its either the battery, carburetor, distributor, starter, electrical, wiring, ignition switch or something else".
So your saying that something is wrong between the front bumper and the rear bumper... Great, thanks.
Unfortunately it was really hard to track down, due to how inconsistent it was. By the time you get back to the shop, its working great, so there is nothing to fix. Or its not working, and you try something and that solved the problem, so you assume its fixed. A week later the problem returns and you try something else, and the problem goes away. So you assume its fixed. Pulling the thermostat fixed it for a very long time, but then the problem came back when the weather changed.
The cable looks fine except for the oxidation at one end. But the wires are intact, not brittle or broken.
How could the oxidation only cause a problem when at a certain temp? How could it be THAT close to not working, but work GREAT when 10 degrees cooler?
Keep in mind that I cant say 100% sure that the problem is fixed. It seems to be gone after a few days of driving, but this would not be the first time that has happened, only to have the problem return.
Pics:
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ele/d/tacoma-defective-electrical-cable/7796771290.html
Worked absolutely 100% of the time cold.
Worked maybe 80% of the time hot.
When it didn't work hot, you could wait a little while or open the hood, and that would cause it to work again.
Locally:
One guy said 90% starter.
One guy said 90% timing.
One guy said 100% battery.
One guy said most likely carb/intake issues.
And so on. .
Some of the local guys said its either the battery, carburetor, distributor, starter, electrical, wiring, ignition switch or something else".
So your saying that something is wrong between the front bumper and the rear bumper... Great, thanks.
Unfortunately it was really hard to track down, due to how inconsistent it was. By the time you get back to the shop, its working great, so there is nothing to fix. Or its not working, and you try something and that solved the problem, so you assume its fixed. A week later the problem returns and you try something else, and the problem goes away. So you assume its fixed. Pulling the thermostat fixed it for a very long time, but then the problem came back when the weather changed.
The cable looks fine except for the oxidation at one end. But the wires are intact, not brittle or broken.
How could the oxidation only cause a problem when at a certain temp? How could it be THAT close to not working, but work GREAT when 10 degrees cooler?
Keep in mind that I cant say 100% sure that the problem is fixed. It seems to be gone after a few days of driving, but this would not be the first time that has happened, only to have the problem return.
Pics:
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ele/d/tacoma-defective-electrical-cable/7796771290.html
rampage
3/4 ton status
Classic case of gangrene. It was able to pass enough current when cold but when you add heat that increases the resistance in that one spot not allowing enough current to flow. I’m sure if you felt the wire at that one spot when it wasn’t working it’d be hot.
You’re just looking at the corrosion on the surface. If you cut the individual strands you’ll see that the cross sectional area of good copper is less than what it is on a non-corroded strand. And remember, if you decrease a circle’s diameter by half it is not half the area it’s 1/4 the area, so it doesn’t take much of the cross sectional area to be eaten away to start having an effect on how much current can flow through a strand of wire.
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Makes sense to me. I had felt the cable from one end to the other when it was not cranking properly, and I could not find a hot spot. Maybe the insulation was too thick. During the times it had issues, its strange that it would work when the distributor was turned off, but not when turned on. All signs were pointing to the distributor. Until a new distributor was installed....
So far so good. I sure hope this is not another "fix" that turns out to not fix it. It working properly for a few days was not uncommon - just to have the problem return with a vengeance.
rampage
3/4 ton status
By disabling the ignition, allowed the engine to turn over easier, with out the flame front pushing against piston. Once the cranking speed was up turning on the spark would fire and run.
No spark= less work for starter= less current to crank
No spark= less work for starter= less current to crank
78 GMC Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Its possible.
