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"HOJ" -- The Rebuild (72 GMC Jimmy)

Haven't posted in a while, but I've been working. We've dropped the gas tank, removed the old rear axle, springs and shocks and installed the ORD shackle flip. Those rivets are no joke.

Also, I've removed the old steering column and picked up a new, tilt column and shaft from ididit.

Chris from Off Road Design has been super helpful! Right now, we're trying to tackle how to get F-250 shock towers for taller shocks onto the truck without interfering with the clutch-pedal-to-push-rod linkeage (aka, the "z-bar"). Anybody got any ideas?

Here are a few pics.

-Dane

Current Setup:
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New shock tower head-on:
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New shock tower inside view:
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Pics of shackle flip install

Here are some pics of the ORD shackle flip install:

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And I got the new motor back :woot:

383. Specs later :)
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dmcx72 said:
And I got the new motor back :woot:

383. Specs later :)
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Come on now, we do not have the patience for phrases like that.....

SPECS NOW!!! :haha:

Build is looking great by the way.


Oh, for anyone interested. I noticed somebody said that no 14bFF will be a direct swap on a 1st gen. The M1008 CUCV 14bff will bolt right up to a 1st gen.
 
what dave said! I just slung the 14b from a cucv right under mine, didn't have to change a thing.

As for the z-bar issue, I'm not certain how to address it the way it is, but you could easily switch to a hyrdo clutch and be good to go. You just need a different bell housing and the hydro parts. I did mine for like $150. All the hydraulics are off the shelf stuff so the only thing you need to find is the bell.

Good looking build btw, keep it up!:thumb:
 
Z71paramedic said:
As for the z-bar issue, I'm not certain how to address it the way it is, but you could easily switch to a hyrdo clutch and be good to go. You just need a different bell housing and the hydro parts. I did mine for like $150. All the hydraulics are off the shelf stuff so the only thing you need to find is the bell.
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Agreed!

I'd tell you to go back & get the rear leaf springs from that 2001, while you can get them cheap. You'll eventually want to go to the longer leafs. Just stick around here for a while.

Later,
Buddy
 
on the shock towers, do yourself a favor and with a zero rate, move the axle forward an inch. Mount the shock tower on the front side of the z-bar bracket, and straighten it, should work perfectly.
 
Confedneck said:
on the shock towers, do yourself a favor and with a zero rate, move the axle forward an inch. Mount the shock tower on the front side of the z-bar bracket, and straighten it, should work perfectly.
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Not a bad idea ... investigating ...
 
scottishdave said:
Come on now, we do not have the patience for phrases like that.....

SPECS NOW!!! :haha:

Build is looking great by the way.

Oh, for anyone interested. I noticed somebody said that no 14bFF will be a direct swap on a 1st gen. The M1008 CUCV 14bff will bolt right up to a 1st gen.
Click to expand...

Original block was SB 350, 4 bolt main. It was already bored .040 over so we checked the block out and there was plenty of metal to go .060 over so we did.

Cam: CompCams Xtreme 4x4 X4260HR (hydraulic roller)
4130 Forged Crank (3.75" stroke, hence "stroker")
4130 Forged Pistons
4340 I-beam rods
PBM Strike Force aluminum heads (A-358 Al w/ 190cc runners)
Aluminum valve covers
ProComp aluminum air gap intake manifold
Edelbrock performer 650 cfm carb (planning on replacing this with the FAST system when I save up enough duckets)
MSD digital programmable 6AL-2 ignition w/ pro-billet distributor & HVC-2 coil.
Picked up the March performance Ultra-Drive serpentine kit and a flex-a-lite dual electric fan set up.
Moroso 6-qt oil pan (which, by the way fits fine with the Diy4X 1st gen crossmember)

Final compression is 9.5:1 and total displacement is ~388 ci. No idea what the HP is gonna be, but it should get the job done.

Yeah - I know there's a lot of "shiny" stuff there. I am making this truck nice. It'll be nice to drive and have moderately good off-road performance with the option to go bigger or full-on crawler later if I want. I'm kind of over-building a bit. Think I'm gonna keep it @ 37"s for now. I hope I have kids someday who wanna learn how to work on trucks.

-Dane
 
I agree, Nothing saying that you HAVE to put the shock back into the stock location.

I would mount the Ford tower forward of where the factory shock mount is, which would give the shock a better, more vertical position. The buy some lower shock mounts from DIY4x or ORD and burn them onto the axle.
 
Z71paramedic said:
what dave said! I just slung the 14b from a cucv right under mine, didn't have to change a thing.

As for the z-bar issue, I'm not certain how to address it the way it is, but you could easily switch to a hyrdo clutch and be good to go. You just need a different bell housing and the hydro parts. I did mine for like $150. All the hydraulics are off the shelf stuff so the only thing you need to find is the bell.

Good looking build btw, keep it up!:thumb:
Click to expand...

Got links for the parts you used for your hydro clutch setup?
 
Radiator support

So I went to replace the radiator support bracket with the one from LMC. Turns out the LMC part is set up for 2 headlights, but the Jimmy has 4. Am I missing something? Anybody else with a 1st-gen Jimmy replaced their radiator support?

(Mine got crunched up in a previous accident and old battery acid ate through the better part of the passenger's side)

-Dane
 
dmcx72 said:
Got links for the parts you used for your hydro clutch setup?
Click to expand...

I used a bell housing I bought from a member on here (don't remember who though...) and then the hydraulics were all from the local oreilly's.

Powertorque master cylinder: p/n CM1230 $30
Powertorque slave cylinder: Part # : CS2222 $20


The hoses I'm finding online don't look right, but I'm sure if you just ask at the counter they'll be able to get it right for you. They're all from a 93 K2500. The whole setup cost me less than $100 including the hydro bell housing. If you need anything else let me know.:waytogo:
 
A look at the LMC catalog for 67-72 GMC, lists the radiator core support as a chevy only application which means to me, that LMC does not offer a GMC version with the dual headlights.

I would start checking out Junk yards. Although anything outside of Cali and places like Arizona will probably be filled with rusting hulks.
 
Z71 paramedic was able to get a great condition windshield frame from a cali junkyard thanks to NORCAL69 being such a stand up guy.

In the pictures of that junkyard I see atleast 1 GMC that could be a candidate. Might be worth contacting NORCAL69 to see if you can work something out with him.

Link to build thread with the junkyard pics
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273333&page=2
 
I would buy that one and just suck up the cost of shipping.

Are the headlight parts not interchangeable? I figure the core support's would be universal and that the headlight mounts could just unbolt and be mounted to a new one.
 
scottishdave said:
I would buy that one and just suck up the cost of shipping.

Are the headlight parts not interchangeable? I figure the core support's would be universal and that the headlight mounts could just unbolt and be mounted to a new one.
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Here's what we're lookin at:
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They appear to be welded. I'm entertaining the idea of taking this somewhere and seeing if someone can move it for me. Also thinking blasting the original and seeing how bad the rust is. LMC agreed to take the part back minus the restock fee so now I dunno.

-Dane
 
Yours may be salvageable...The bottom corner area looks like it could have some rust through, but most of it looks pretty solid.
 
With a good quality spot-weld cutting bit and about 1 hour's work you could remove the dual-headlight setup from the original core support and move it over to the new repo core support (of course you'll also need to remove the single headlight basket from the new part)...

I doubt you'd be able to do all the necessary rust repair on the original core support in less time, and you're going to be out the shipping and re-stocking fees for the repro part if you send it back too. I'd make an attempt to use it if it were my project....

lightly sand around the mounting flanges of those headlamp buckets and locate all the "dimpled" spots where the factory spotwelds are. Cut them carefully and those old buckets will lift right off!!! :waytogo:


:usaflag:
 
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