hot rod 6.2 diesel.

[Vombrown]

So the long and short of this thread will be my build of A 6.2 mechanical pump turbo engine. This setup will going in my 72 suburban build in front of a turbo 400 trans that will also receive enough help to take the stress.

Right now I am at the tear down and order parts phase. I am starting with whAT Appears to be a later model 6.5 block. I will strip it down and send it out to be checked and cleaned. Cylinders look good but we may bore a small amount to clean everything up. We will balance the entire rotating assembly. Replacing pistons for coated mahle versions. Arp rod bolts to replace factory spec stuff. When everything comes back i will clean up the ports on the head and gasket match them. I will be having. The block and heads checked for squareness and decked if needed. Arp head studs and copper head gaskets to hold the boost i am planning to dump in. Follow along as we get it going. Block heads into the machine shop tomorrow.

 

[beags86]

I'm not a diesel guy myself, but I remembered reading this once.

http://www.trucktrend.com/cool-trucks/1006dp-500hp-65l-diesel-race-engine

 

[Vombrown]

Yep. I was on the phone with Bill today. He built that engine. While its surely bad ass, its a little much to be reliable. I'm not shooting for that much. 250-300 Hp is my goal. Which is more than any production diesel truck on the road. It should do everything I want and more while still remaining reliable. It will take some doing but I think it will be worth it to see a 6.2 sing!

 

[superbuickguy]

are you lowering the compression?

 

[Vombrown]

Actually no.... If anything it will be bumped up a small amount possibly from stock from the head work. The trick will be getting it to hold together under about 20-24 psi of boost without detonating. Fuel delivery will be key.

 

[GWeakland620]

I'm in. I will be shooting for 300hp with my tow rig, so I'll be watching this for sure.

 

[Vombrown]

I'm in. I will be shooting for 300hp with my tow rig, so I'll be watching this for sure.

What is your plan to get there?

 

[GWeakland620]

What is your plan to get there?

I'll try to remember it all. It's mostly bolt on stuff.

-HX35 turbo upgrade
-Mild tune/ECU swap
-Full 4" exhaust with larger x-over tube - Done
-Cold air intake
-New/larger injectors - Done
-Manual waste gate
-PMD relocation with #9 resistor- Done

I'll add the stuff I forgot as I remember it.

 

[Vombrown]

Oh gotcha. I am ditching the computer all together. I want it all mechanical. That will allow for much more user friendly adjustments to be made without needing to change a tune.

 

[Vombrown]

I am just tearing mine apart now to get it to the machine shop so it will be a while. Add to that the time it takes to fabricate exhaust Manifolds. That will be the first hurdle. Turbo placement.

 

[Big Ray]

No intercooler...?

 

[Vombrown]

No intercooler...?

I am Considering it for sure. It will more than likely boil down to space. If I can duct it in i will use one. Most of these engine builds I have researched don't use one. Not sure why.

 

[GWeakland620]

You should check out @AgDieseler's build thread.

 

[KirsL]

I am Considering it for sure. It will more than likely boil down to space. If I can duct it in i will use one. Most of these engine builds I have researched don't use one. Not sure why.

Both Agdieseler and myself have full size intercooler in our trucks. So it's doable just takes some work.

Now for your compression you should aim for right around 19.5 to 1 since you said you want at least 20lbs of boost. Raising it is not going to gain you anything, will probably suffer from that. Also don't get too caught up in boost pressure, worry more about volume. If you can deliver more volume at a lower pressure the engine will be happier, lower drive pressure is important too. High drive pressure cause excessive heat to build up in the engine. Which can lead to a nice melt down. I run arp headstuds also, we'll worth it on a performance build.

Doing some simple port matching and smoothing of the intake runners is all that I've done to mine. Theres no need for a true port and polish to be done with a turbo.

I've thought of doing a center mount turbo on mine and it would probably take notching the firewall some to run the up-pipes and downpipe. There's not much room unless you put a big body lift on.

 

[Vombrown]

I wasn't looking to increase the compression ratio, just that it might be raised slightly from stock with a decking of the heads and block for squareness. I'm thinking twins versus a large single turbo. H1c holsets to be exact. They have a fast spool rate and should pro idea more than enough volume.

My thought was that it would tuck down into the engine bay better than a lArge single. Lending itself to a side fed center discharge inter cooler possibly. Don't know yet. Its all hypothetical at this point while I spend money on the block and parts for now.

What sort of Hp are you seeing with yours? WhAT have you done to it?

 

[AgDieseler]

Most of these engine builds I have researched don't use one. Not sure why.

Because it's requires a lot of work to do it and maintain AC. All your work building a great engine won't fully pay off without managed intake temperatures.

.005 decked heads, diamond precups, and .010 head gaskets yielded 19.7:1 for my 6.2L, and it's worked very well, but I need more air flow rate and pressure behind it to make the most of it.

Looking forward to following your project.

David

 

[Vombrown]

Because it's requires a lot of work to do it and maintain AC. All your work building a great engine won't fully pay off without managed intake temperatures.

.005 decked heads, diamond precups, and .010 head gaskets yielded 19.7:1 for my 6.2L, and it's worked very well, but I need more air flow rate and pressure behind it to make the most of it.

Looking forward to following your project.

David

That isn't a problem for me. I won't be needing AC. I'm actually going with a low mount alternator and power steering pump setup to clear the top sides of the engine.

 

[Vombrown]

One area i am running into a dead end is location of a 6.2 diesel header flange made of mild steel to base my exhaust manifolds from. Anyone with a waterjet handy?

 

[KirsL]

I wasn't looking to increase the compression ratio, just that it might be raised slightly from stock with a decking of the heads and block for squareness. I'm thinking twins versus a large single turbo. H1c holsets to be exact. They have a fast spool rate and should pro idea more than enough volume.

My thought was that it would tuck down into the engine bay better than a lArge single. Lending itself to a side fed center discharge inter cooler possibly. Don't know yet. Its all hypothetical at this point while I spend money on the block and parts for now.

What sort of Hp are you seeing with yours? WhAT have you done to it?

OK that makes more sense. Running the thicker headgaskets can help maintain where the compression needs to be if using stock pistons.

Hc1 is a nice turbo. You would need a fair amount of fuel down low to spool true twins. You plannig to run the small 12cm3 exhaust housing? Those being small would spool fairly nice for bascally be fed by only 4 cylinders.

I know stans headers used to sell just the manifold flange in stainless, not sure about mild steel.

I have a fair amount done to mine. Low compression(18 to 1) .020 over pistons. All with ceramic side skirts. Headstuds, main girdle with studs. A .033 db2 pump with 150 bar injectors. Currently a gm8 turbo but I have an hx40 for it. Fully balanced rotating assembly, fluid damper (highly recommended), serpentine belt setup with dual t-stats.

I've never had it dynoed so not truly sure of what it makes but around 250hp/450tq at the flywheel is probably a safe bet.

 

[Vombrown]

I won't be running stock pistons. After machine work to clean the cylinders up I will order new aftermarket. I will be using the stock rods with arp bolts.