I like Comp cams for flat tappets.
CK5
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how can i get more power from my 454?
- Thread starter the_blaze
- Start date
I've never had an issue with Comp....there are lots of nightmare stories about em though.
My local speed shop said he has had nothing but issues with there generic lifters, he will only sell there magnum lifters. How much truth there is to that not sure.
My local speed shop said he has had nothing but issues with there generic lifters, he will only sell there magnum lifters. How much truth there is to that not sure.
I have a Crane in my Vette's 327...been in there since 94...not that it has a lot of miles, but it does have a lot of revolutions on it with many 6500 rpm runs as well, virtually shows no wear at last refresh. I use Comp Cams break in oil additive or Lucas additive at each oil change as well...
I use Comp Cams solid flat tappet cam in the Maiden's 454...couldn't be happier with the choice and performance from it. I use oriface face lifters for this cam as well.
I use Comp Cams solid flat tappet cam in the Maiden's 454...couldn't be happier with the choice and performance from it. I use oriface face lifters for this cam as well.
Comp, Crane, Lunati, Crower, Howards, bullet, they all make quality stuff. Crane used to be the main one to make solid roller forgings before they went under, but then Callies took over that roll and now that crane is back I think they all get the roller cams from the same place. In fact, there is really not many places that make cast cam cores either, so most of them get the cam cores from the same place or two. And now that most of them have CNC cam cutters and grinders, its all pretty good stuff.
I would buy from the company that has the best lobe profile for your engine, not just limit yourself to one brand.
The install and breakin procedure along with how quickly you fire the engine will be much more important than the brand of cam you choose. And make sure your valvesprings are up to par for the cam you choose as well, if you go into coil bind or have incorrect spring pressure no cam will survive.
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Ok thanks for the input!
Lets talk about an entirely new issue,
STALL CONVERTERS *If* I go with the roller setup Crane and a transmission shop suggest i go to a 2200RPM stall converter,
Will that suck for wheeling? I have never run anything but a stock torque converter before so this is all new territory for me!
The transmission shop i got the stock converter from said " the factory converter i gave you has an 1800rpm stall the 2200rpm stall is only 400 RPM more so i wont notice it much putting around town but when i stomp on it it will kick me in the but and i'll be happy"
Thoughts comments suggestions?
Lets talk about an entirely new issue,
STALL CONVERTERS *If* I go with the roller setup Crane and a transmission shop suggest i go to a 2200RPM stall converter,
Will that suck for wheeling? I have never run anything but a stock torque converter before so this is all new territory for me!
The transmission shop i got the stock converter from said " the factory converter i gave you has an 1800rpm stall the 2200rpm stall is only 400 RPM more so i wont notice it much putting around town but when i stomp on it it will kick me in the but and i'll be happy"
Thoughts comments suggestions?
I run a 2000 rpm stall converter, works well offroad. Only issue is when trying to give it a quick bump, it flashes too much and it launches. You have to ride the brakes hard or it can get away from you. I still like it better than a stock converter though.
I never knew this was a thing for offroad vehicles, i talked with a local transmission shop , gearstar, and TCI all today and everyone suggests that same range of 2200 to 2500 stall, i'm only worried about having a spungy or soft feeling trans as i tool around town not at full throttle
Spend the money on a good converter. Off the shelf stuff will feel spongy or loose. Getting a custom setup one will drive stock until you throttle it hard, then it comes alive.
I agree with Chris, no off the shelf stuff. Talk to user "Greg Ducato" for the converter, VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE trans guy.
Iirc a good converter should take in to consideration gear ratio, weight, engine, etc.
Iirc a good converter should take in to consideration gear ratio, weight, engine, etc.
Update!
Ok so after days and weeks of research and calling all the experts I could find, I finally reached a decision.
I am going with the crane roller cam setup, part# 139011.
I am also going with a stall converter set at 2,000 to 2,200RPM stall.
The reason why I went with this,
1. I should get noticeably more power from the roller setup ( do to lift, duration, lobe separation and all that stuff)
2.You fine folks suggested it ( CK5 homies told me to so i shall)
3.The power range on the roller is much larger and is way closer to what i actually need for the type of driving i do
4. It's an insurance policy ( bottom line, with all the bull**** i have been through I need some piece of mind)
5. who knows where oil is heading and how long we can keep using the flat tap cams??
6. My machine shop is literally losing money on the deal just to get me over to a roller so we never have issues again.
The reason I chose the 2,000 to 2,200 stall:
1. Crane cam said that's what I needed
2.You fine folks suggested it ( CK5 homies told me that would rock)
3. The performance transmission shops ( like 5+ I contacted) all said for my build and driving the 2,000 to 2,200 would be ideal and I would absolutely feel it in the seat
4. Warranty exchange.... yes I said it, I am getting my new stall converter for $60 bucks because the transmission parts house was willing to do a warranty exchange and upgrade. Money is a huge factor here, I have used these guys for torque converters 4 previous times and they build good stuff. This new converter is built here in their shop and has a 3 year warranty so i'm happy with it.
5.Peer pressure
Just to put some minds at ease I will say the only internals we are reusing are the pistons, and possibly the piston rods EVERYTHING else is brand new ( not reman or refurbished ). Rings, bearings, crank, cam, lifters rockers so on... I say possibly the rods because they are doing a deep inspection on them if they are fine we will reuse them if there is even a slight question they wont be reused. ( I know someone said something about the heat possibly causing an issue so I brought it up and he agreed and said it was already part of the plan)
This thing should be bulletproof or at least last me 22 miles instead of just 20! LOL
I have faith that this guy is going to be over the top thorough with this build neither he or I want to see this engine come apart again. hopefully the 4th time is the charm!
Ok so after days and weeks of research and calling all the experts I could find, I finally reached a decision.
I am going with the crane roller cam setup, part# 139011.
I am also going with a stall converter set at 2,000 to 2,200RPM stall.
The reason why I went with this,
1. I should get noticeably more power from the roller setup ( do to lift, duration, lobe separation and all that stuff)
2.You fine folks suggested it ( CK5 homies told me to so i shall)
3.The power range on the roller is much larger and is way closer to what i actually need for the type of driving i do
4. It's an insurance policy ( bottom line, with all the bull**** i have been through I need some piece of mind)
5. who knows where oil is heading and how long we can keep using the flat tap cams??
6. My machine shop is literally losing money on the deal just to get me over to a roller so we never have issues again.
The reason I chose the 2,000 to 2,200 stall:
1. Crane cam said that's what I needed
2.You fine folks suggested it ( CK5 homies told me that would rock)
3. The performance transmission shops ( like 5+ I contacted) all said for my build and driving the 2,000 to 2,200 would be ideal and I would absolutely feel it in the seat
4. Warranty exchange.... yes I said it, I am getting my new stall converter for $60 bucks because the transmission parts house was willing to do a warranty exchange and upgrade. Money is a huge factor here, I have used these guys for torque converters 4 previous times and they build good stuff. This new converter is built here in their shop and has a 3 year warranty so i'm happy with it.
5.Peer pressure
Just to put some minds at ease I will say the only internals we are reusing are the pistons, and possibly the piston rods EVERYTHING else is brand new ( not reman or refurbished ). Rings, bearings, crank, cam, lifters rockers so on... I say possibly the rods because they are doing a deep inspection on them if they are fine we will reuse them if there is even a slight question they wont be reused. ( I know someone said something about the heat possibly causing an issue so I brought it up and he agreed and said it was already part of the plan)
This thing should be bulletproof or at least last me 22 miles instead of just 20!
LOLI have faith that this guy is going to be over the top thorough with this build neither he or I want to see this engine come apart again. hopefully the 4th time is the charm!
Awesome news, I have a feeling this is going to be a monster. Can't wait to see the 
video. Hint hint.
video. Hint hint.
Awesome news, I have a feeling this is going to be a monster. Can't wait to see the
hahaha maybe in the dirt, knowing my luck if i did a sweet burnout on asphalt i would blow up my t-case or transmission
Just pointing out that you called it first.hahaha maybe in the dirt, knowing my luck if i did a sweet burnout on asphalt i would blow up my t-case or transmission
Honestly hope you've shrugged the gremlin from the engine.
I'll take it easy until we can hit at least one EJS then we can beat it up a little and see what it can do. With any luck I can get a couple thousand miles on it by easter so it's nice and ready.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I honestly believe 75% of peoples complaints with autos are converter problems. A built auto with a correctly stalled converter for its currently not stock engine is a great thing to drive. I also think that when people get disappointed in engine builds and the amount of power they received from their heads/cam/intake swap per dollar, most of the blame is heaped on the auto itself, and not the converter which on top of being a poorly manufactured, very generic and "driver safe" unit, it also is stalling much further from the cams powerband, creating the 2 foot idle trick among other problems
Here's a stupid question....
How would I install a temp sensor/ gauge on my 700R4?
I'm thinking of something like this :
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue...EueMN4g0WPk3mbKBYOOd4Pfmj5scPidHRnBoCpqjw_wcB
How would I install a temp sensor/ gauge on my 700R4?
I'm thinking of something like this :
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue...EueMN4g0WPk3mbKBYOOd4Pfmj5scPidHRnBoCpqjw_wcB
Mine is in line on my transmission line. It is electric and the sensor is a bit smaller.
You dont have a link for something like that do you?
I did some research on my Torque converter and it says its rated 2100RPM to 2400RPM stall I just want to make sure while im wheeling i dont over do it and heat this pig up.
I have also read that there is a "test port" on the side of the transmission that i can hook directly into without tapping or cutting anything? anyone done this before?
