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How do I rebuild the mechanical clutch linkage?

colbystephens

colbystephens

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I'm really needing to do this. Perhaps I just need to swap to hydro - but I like the feel of the mechanical clutch better. In anycase, I'm having lots of trouble with it.

Problem:

  1. The tube that goes from the frame-bracket to the dowel/ball that sticks off of the bellhousing doesn't seem to reach far enough. Frequently this pops off of the dowel and makes me lose all ability to release the clutch. Very frustrating, but easily fixed (30min). Sometimes, like this week, I just end up driving home clutchless... :doah:
  2. The pin that the threaded rod that actually pushes the clutch fork is COMPLETELY shot. See the attached picture.
  3. The seal at the ball joint inside the tube where it connects to the frame mount is shot. How big of a deal is this? Doesn't seem like a big deal, but I sort of think that the amount of movement I get at that joint is too much.
So, where do I get replacement parts for this stuff? Especially that pin that the threaded rod rotates on! Thanks!

Pic below = :yikes:

Photo0056.jpg
 
I got a rebuild kit from a performance car shop. Made my mechanical linkage perfect! Call around to the custom performance shops, the nova's and stuff with manuals are what they are made for. Worked great for me.
 
us74k5 said:
I got a rebuild kit from a performance car shop. Made my mechanical linkage perfect! Call around to the custom performance shops, the nova's and stuff with manuals are what they are made for. Worked great for me.
Click to expand...

Good tip. I'll try it.

Corey 78K5 said:
Have you checked with LMC to see if they have the parts?
Click to expand...

I haven't. I figured they were more body components than drive train. I'll take a gander at that too.
 
looks like a number 6 will do me just fine. any thoughts about the tube not extending far enough over to the dowel?
 
easy. i believe the threaded portion is 3/8 rod. get some 3/8 all thread, drill a hole in the foot or indentation of the clutch fork(might need to use a hardened knibber bit on a die grinder, because its hardened)

then double nut and adjust accordingly

I lost my clutch and almost rolled the truck, but save it by turning off the key. After this mod it hasnt happened again
 
Thanks for posting that link. Lots of good stuff there.

I don't have the spring. I think it might help a little bit, but the real reason things are coming apart is because that tube (PART 13 HERE) keeps popping off of the ball/dowel that sticks off of the bellhousing. Otherwise, I shouldn't have this issue. EDIT: Just found a good pic of the ball/dowel thing I'm talking about:

90-844.jpg


I can see the spring being valuable if you have much movement between the frame/drive train, but I don't have that issue. The clutch fingers give enough backpressure to hold everything together without the spring.
 
Since this thread all ready lists most of the parts for the 73-84 mechanical clutch linkage parts. Would someone be kind enough to post some pics of their mechanical linkage fully assembled including up in the cab?
I have some of the parts read; pedal and fork both are installed, but, I have none of the linkage between the two pieces. plus, my cab is an automatic cab, with no provision for any linkage to go through the floor board.

I just need to see what I'm up against.
 
I'd appreciate it. Because I'm about to order a bunch of after market Hydro parts and kind of piece it together. and I would love to just have something thats supposed to be there, as opposed to some piece meal crap that kind of works.
 
Kinda of a dumb question here Colby. Now I have never owned a truck of this era with mechanical linkage so I am not quite up on all of it. Anyways isn't there supposed to be a teflon insert on the end of the bellcrank where it slides over the ball dowel? Just wondering if yours has that piece?
 
BoondocK5 said:
I'd appreciate it. Because I'm about to order a bunch of after market Hydro parts and kind of piece it together. and I would love to just have something thats supposed to be there, as opposed to some piece meal crap that kind of works.
Click to expand...
Hmmm. Mechanical system and hydro system are apples to oranges. Unless you are following supersize75k5's mechanical-to-hydro custom clutch set up:

CLICKY.
 
Corey 78K5 said:
Kinda of a dumb question here Colby. Now I have never owned a truck of this era with mechanical linkage so I am not quite up on all of it. Anyways isn't there supposed to be a teflon insert on the end of the bellcrank where it slides over the ball dowel? Just wondering if yours has that piece?
Click to expand...

mine does not have that piece, but it would make sense... I think. don't know how much of this system is missing/broken. It's in scary bad shape. Can't believe I let it get to that point. Need to put bushings in the pedal rod too.:doah:
 
colbystephens said:
mine does not have that piece, but it would make sense... I think. don't know how much of this system is missing/broken. It's in scary bad shape. Can't believe I let it get to that point. Need to put bushings in the pedal rod too.:doah:
Click to expand...
Like I said I am not an expert but I believe there is a bushing of some sort that holds it together and keeps it from "popping" off. As well as making it work smoother.
 
Hmmm. I didn't look to see if his pics were working before I posted the link. I'll got take pics of my manual set up. However, on a hydro set up, the push rod from the pedal goes through the fire wall - not the floor. And then everything else is different too... :D
 
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